Rodi Canisters stuck.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Eagle.
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
Take the unit and lay it down on ground, hold it down with your knee while wrenching it off with your weight. Having a friend tap on the stuck canister while you do this couldn’t hurt neither.
Let us know
 
By the way. If you grip the canister towards the bottom, youll have more torque leverage when spinning. Might be what you need to break the seal.

deadpool 2 ok GIF by 20th Century Fox Home Entertainment
 
Take the unit and lay it diwn on ground, hold it down with your knee while wrenching it off with your weight. Having a friend tap on the stick canister while you do this couldn’t hurt neither.
Let us know

Ok I will try and get back with the results.
 
Take the unit and lay it down on ground, hold it down with your knee while wrenching it off with your weight. Having a friend tap on the stuck canister while you do this couldn’t hurt neither.
Let us know
IT WORKED!! Thank you.
 
In case someone else finds this thread I had the same problem and warmed up screw part with hair dryer and it worked!

I also lined up wrench on the outside and to the edge of the canister ridges (as opposed to lined up on the center of them). This allowed me to move the wrench higher up towards the top as well. Lastly, I didn't try to turn the wrench as much as using my fist to kind of hit the handle in the direction I was going which btw is clockwise (righty) to loosen it if you're looking from the top which is inverse of normal right tight rule of thumb. At least for the BRS unit I am using.
 
A HARD Hand Tighten Tight when you put them back.
Use the wrench only if there is a leak.
I know this is an old thread, but I was going to say the same thing. Tighten it by hand, turn the water on so it starts filling back up and when the water level gets near the threads, tighten it enough that it doesn't leak past them. Conveniently, that'll also burp the air out.
 
In case someone else finds this thread I had the same problem and warmed up screw part with hair dryer and it worked!

I also lined up wrench on the outside and to the edge of the canister ridges (as opposed to lined up on the center of them). This allowed me to move the wrench higher up towards the top as well. Lastly, I didn't try to turn the wrench as much as using my fist to kind of hit the handle in the direction I was going which btw is clockwise (righty) to loosen it if you're looking from the top which is inverse of normal right tight rule of thumb. At least for the BRS unit I am using.

Also I realized that if you use the wrench and actually quickly turn it 30% right before it hits the vertical ridges on the outside of the canister you can build up some torque. So you're almost whipping it open versus using force at the point of resistance. You're getting a head start and then when it hits the vertical ridge it has a lot more oomph. If this doesn't make sense I can upload a video.
 
1. Those are called HOUSINGS... not canisters. I know, I know, there's a vendor in this market place that calls them canisters. Nonetheless...

2. Don't tap/smack/strike/heat the housings with anything. I'm referring to the clear housings here.

3. At every filter change, remove the oring, wash, dry, inspect, lube with silicone grease and re-install.

4. Don't use the wrench to crank them tight. If you have to tighten them that hard to avoid leaks, then the answer is replacement orings.

Russ
 
4. Don't use the wrench to crank them tight. If you have to tighten them that hard to avoid leaks, then the answer is replacement orings.
I think the problem is that they come factory installed so effin' tight that people work on the assumption that they need to get them back just as tight. Or rather, they feel the need to put as much muscle into tightening it as they did to loosen it. If someone spends a half hour with a friend and a PVC pipe stuck over the filter wrench handle to get it off, they're not going to put it back on hand tight.

What would be nice is something like a sticker on the housing telling the user to only put them back on until they're (for example) hand tight plus a half turn, or whatever it needs to be. Maybe new filter/media could come with a little pouch of silicone grease or the filter assembly could come with a tube of it.
 
I think the problem is that they come factory installed so effin' tight that people work on the assumption that they need to get them back just as tight. Or rather, they feel the need to put as much muscle into tightening it as they did to loosen it. If someone spends a half hour with a friend and a PVC pipe stuck over the filter wrench handle to get it off, they're not going to put it back on hand tight.

What would be nice is something like a sticker on the housing telling the user to only put them back on until they're (for example) hand tight plus a half turn, or whatever it needs to be. Maybe new filter/media could come with a little pouch of silicone grease or the filter assembly could come with a tube of it.
Sometimes people who work with threaded mechanical things dont know the difference in seal styles and apply the same practice when fastening anything together

You dont know how many o-ringed straight threaded things ive seen with teflon tape wrapped so thick around them that it makes the eventual failure very comical.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top