RODI Filters
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Crabs McJones
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How much water have you ran through it in those two months? Can you describe your setup for us? Does it have a DI stage?
I make 20 gallons a week (2 months). Marine depot 4 stage (see photo). I also have the flush valve that I use once a week for about a minute each time.
System is setup with a AUto shutoff filling a garbage can.
TDS is up to 8
System is setup with a AUto shutoff filling a garbage can.
TDS is up to 8
Justin Cook
Active Member
Where are you measuring the TDS at? I always measure the incoming water, the water post-RO membrane and then again after the DI.
MTBake
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Like theMeat said, make sure the system is actually shutting off when the float valve is activated.
And I would change all pre filters and the di resin on that system if it were mine. I would also make sure the ro membrane is still good.
And I would change all pre filters and the di resin on that system if it were mine. I would also make sure the ro membrane is still good.
It depends on how dirty your water is. Once the sediment clogs you will get less pressure making the ro membrane less effective. Sediment is the cheapest filter in the system. Looks like your pressure gauge shows it below 40 ?
Part 1 RO.You should get around a 95 % or better rejection rate. Example: 100 in and 5 out of the RO part
Part 2 The carbon should be ok unless you have a lot of chlorine or other chemicals in your tap water.
Part 3 The resin looks to be needing a change. Many thing can cause the resin to be used up at a very fast rate.
Solutions might be to add another stage inline depending on where the problem is.
One question; City or Well water?
On city water you should be running carbon. In the pic it looks like it’s the middle one.
Your first filter particle/sediment looks clean, meaning not dirty enough to change yet.
If your di resin is getting used up quick then stuff is getting through.
What size/gpd membrane?
Where is supply to Rodi coming from?
Your first filter particle/sediment looks clean, meaning not dirty enough to change yet.
If your di resin is getting used up quick then stuff is getting through.
What size/gpd membrane?
Where is supply to Rodi coming from?
Crabs McJones
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Agree, chlorine and chloramines eat up carbon quickly and one carbon filter may not be cutting it
I was going to ask as well do you know if you have chlorine or chloramines, we have chloramines here so I have to use a chloramine block otherwise I'd go quick too.
So lets replace the Sediment and DI resin. Like just said above could be a chlorine / chloramine issue. Replace the carbon block too with a chloramine buster block. If this happens again after such a small amount of water you need to think about adding a canister and possibly running a second carbon and or di resin in the canister. I have 5 canisters plus the RO.
Justin Cook
Active Member
I would move the first TDS meter to after the RO membrane and before the DI. I had a the same Hannah TDS meter and I would switch it that way so I'd know how well the RO membrane was doing. I have similar TDS levels in my city water and it reads "1" coming out of my RO membrane housing. When that number goes up, I know it's time to replace it.
I would also get some chlorine test strips. I recently started dealing with chloramines in my supply water and didn't realize it until the waste water tested positive for chlorine. i.e. the carbon I was using wouldn't remove the chloramine and that showed up on the test strips. Something seems to be off since you've only used it for 2 months and everything should last longer than that with 75 TDS coming in on the supply.
I would also get some chlorine test strips. I recently started dealing with chloramines in my supply water and didn't realize it until the waste water tested positive for chlorine. i.e. the carbon I was using wouldn't remove the chloramine and that showed up on the test strips. Something seems to be off since you've only used it for 2 months and everything should last longer than that with 75 TDS coming in on the supply.
