RODI Filters

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I would move the first TDS meter to after the RO membrane and before the DI. I had a the same Hannah TDS meter and I would switch it that way so I'd know how well the RO membrane was doing. I have similar TDS levels in my city water and it reads "1" coming out of my RO membrane housing. When that number goes up, I know it's time to replace it.

I would also get some chlorine test strips. I recently started dealing with chloramines in my supply water and didn't realize it until the waste water tested positive for chlorine. i.e. the carbon I was using wouldn't remove the chloramine and that showed up on the test strips. Something seems to be off since you've only used it for 2 months and everything should last longer than that with 75 TDS coming in on the supply.
Agreed
As well as tds post membrane/pre di resin, pressure gauge should be right before membrane. With 40 psi you’re going to go through stuff faster, especially on a larger gpd membrane. That’s why I asked op where Rodi is being supplied from, but got no answer.
 
Sor
Agreed
As well as tds post membrane/pre di resin, pressure gauge should be right before membrane. With 40 psi you’re going to go through stuff faster, especially on a larger gpd membrane. That’s why I asked op where Rodi is being supplied from, but got no answer.

Sorry I got distracted everyone. Catching up now and will respond with answers.
 
Okay so the system I am using is this:

https://www.marinedepot.com/Marine_..._Systems-Marine_Depot-MD9115-FIRORDNH-vi.html

With all the original filters that came with it.

Supply is from laundry hook up. I have a splitter going to wash and RODI.

The water report for my city is below. It’s the newest one I found on their website.

CFC2A1A8-7674-4192-A4D2-AF8CE0AEB3F5.png


I have a spare tds meter and will add to other locations suggested.
 
This everythi
So lets replace the Sediment and DI resin. Like just said above could be a chlorine / chloramine issue. Replace the carbon block too with a chloramine buster block. If this happens again after such a small amount of water you need to think about adding a canister and possibly running a second carbon and or di resin in the canister. I have 5 canisters plus the RO.


Are these correct items? Also 1 micron or .5 micron for sediment?

A7253653-5EE7-4F54-B4F9-143A5BF8D1AC.png
 
Think 1 micron sediment, .5 micron carbon is working for ya. Since both look pretty clean.
The 40 psi on a 100gpd membrane will be a continuous problem. If you go down to below 75 gpd you will fuss over it’s operation a lot less. Personally, at 40psi would go 60gpd. Or you could stay 100 gpd and get a booster pump. A booster pump to get you upwards of 60 psi is ideal, no matter the gpd size. Although the bigger the gpd, the more important it is. If you change your membrane size you must also change your flow restrictor size to match.
You can check to see if your membrane is still good by checking it’s rejection rate. Should be doing 96% rejection. So let’s say you have 100 tds going into membrane, you should have 4 coming out after a few to 10 minutes of operation
 
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Booster pump is important IMO if you aren't getting decent pressure. If you can halve the TDS coming out of the membrane only by increasing pressure you will double the life of your DI. Depending on how much water you make, this can pay for the booster pump very quickly.

I have a pressure gauge on the inlet as well as after the carbon block. Once I see about a 4-5 psi drop across the inlet filters, I change them. Usually around 18 months or so for me making about 15 gallons of product water per week.
 
Let's back up a little here guys. OP:
Sediment filter is about 2 months old, starting to get tds reading on my meter. Normal for these to need replaced this fast? I keep reading online they should last 6 months...
A tds reading above 0 on your DI water IS NOT an indicator that your sediment filter needs to be changed.

From our FAQ's https://www.buckeyehydro.com/faq/:
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or more of the prefilters (all the filters that touch the water before it reaches the RO membrane) is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove much of the chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons. Remember that all the water you process, both waste water and purified water, goes through the carbon block.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your total dissolved solids (TDS) meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million [ppm]) in three places: 1) tap water, 2) after the RO but before the DI, and 3) after the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 ppm. Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO membrane housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 98% (i.e., they reject 98% of the dissolved solids in the feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 8 ppm (a 98% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce purified water (a.k.a. “permeate”) more slowly, but the 75 has a higher rejection rate (96 to 99%). The lifespan of an RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how “dirty” the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the TDS in the water coming into the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce purified water more slowly as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the TDS in the RO water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes you'll hear people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin high TDS water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Additionally, don’t forget to sanitize the entire system at least once per year, and wash and lube your housing o-rings with food-grade silicone grease every filter change.

Russ
 
Looks like you do not have a Filmtec membrane - I don't recognize the brand - do you have the spec's on that membrane? Is it functioning up to specs? Because it is not a Filmtec, it is likely factory tested at 60 or 65 psi - if you feed this sort of membrane only 40 psi the purity of your RO water will suffer, and your DI life span will be shortened.

You have a dual probe HM Digital TDS meter on your system - the DM1 (not an ideal selection for an RODI system). You want to know TDS in THREE locations - tap water, RO, DI. Because you only have two probes, you have to pick two of these three locations to monitor. As mentioned above, I'd opt for the RO and the DI. A better meter for this application would be the TRM1 https://www.buckeyehydro.com/trm1-tri-inline-tds-meter/

Russ
 
Looks like you do not have a Filmtec membrane - I don't recognize the brand - do you have the spec's on that membrane? Is it functioning up to specs? Because it is not a Filmtec, it is likely factory tested at 60 or 65 psi - if you feed this sort of membrane only 40 psi the purity of your RO water will suffer, and your DI life span will be shortened.

You have a dual probe HM Digital TDS meter on your system - the DM1 (not an ideal selection for an RODI system). You want to know TDS in THREE locations - tap water, RO, DI. Because you only have two probes, you have to pick two of these three locations to monitor. As mentioned above, I'd opt for the RO and the DI. A better meter for this application would be the TRM1 https://www.buckeyehydro.com/trm1-tri-inline-tds-meter/

Russ
I have a spare TDS meter that I’m tossing on now as I type this. Between RO and DI. It’s another dual. Assuming I can just leave the extra prope off.
 

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