RODI help

I did not and I bought cheap carbon filters on Amazon. Can anyone recommend good products I don't want to do this again lol well not so soon
I buy the RonAqua 1 micron sediment filters and the Pentek EP-10 5 micron carbon filters. Amazon or where ever I can find them on sale. I use 2 sediments and 1 carbon. I dont not have any chlorine or chloramines to deal with so you might need 2 carbons. I did get the current ro membranes from BRS.
 
Many of the plastic fittings aren't rated ( so I've been told) for 100psi.

So I have my booster pump set at 86-88 psi.
 
Ok lots of questions, yes I tave a restrictor on my waste line. The brand is aquafx. How do you adjust a booster pump? My sediment is 1 micron and carbon is 5.
 
No I don't have a flush valve, I bought the new membrane 6 months ago didn't dry out.
 
What’s tds from tap?

Well water or city?

Gotta know if flow restrictor is right size/match for membrane gpd
 
did you calibrate your tds meter? 100psi is pretty high. generally you want 40-80. have you tested for chlorine? what micron rating are your sediment and carbon? what is your waste/product ratio? what brand did you buy for the membrane and filters? are you on a well?

lots of questions but i’m trying to hit all angles.


;)
 
Ok lots of questions, yes I have a restrictor on my waste line. The brand is aquafx. How do you adjust a booster pump? My sediment is 1 micron and carbon is 5.
On the website the video shows them adjusting the output pressure. On the top they stuck an allen wrench in the hole . Turn 1 way for more 1 way for less. Not sure what size wrench.Looked to be about the size of a pencil or a bit smaller
 
Ok lots of questions, yes I tave a restrictor on my waste line. The brand is aquafx. How do you adjust a booster pump? My sediment is 1 micron and carbon is 5.

.5 or even 1 micron for sediment and carbon. buy spectrapure as they offer near-absolute micron ratings. who know what the actual size is with the cheap brands. this will ensure a longer lasting membrane.
 
Watched the BRS video on RO/DI yesterday, fresh in my mind. Is it possible your DI resin isn't packed tight enough and the water is channeling through and not being cleaned??
 
Alot of suggestions about DI resin and the other filters, but those are putting the cart way before the horse. There is clearly something wrong with the membrane(s) setup. Your membranes' rejection should be at least 96-98%, not 82-83%. Get back to the beginning, people.

OP, are you flushing the system and letting the system run for a couple of minutes before testing the TDS after the membranes? We need a lot more info here.
 
Alot of suggestions about DI resin and the other filters, but those are putting the cart way before the horse. There is clearly something wrong with the membrane(s) setup. Your membranes' rejection should be at least 96-98%, not 82-83%. Get back to the beginning, people.

OP, are you flushing the system and letting the system run for a couple of minutes before testing the TDS after the membranes? We need a lot more info here.

membrane was replaced months ago. it’s flushed by now. please go back to post #1 and read all posts after that. thanks.
 
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Flushing should be done for at least a couple of minutes every time the system has been unused for more than an hour or so. Otherwise, TDS creep sends high TDS product water through the system. Your comment that "it's flushed by now" makes no sense.

If the OP is measuring the TDS of his product water without doing a flush or at least letting the water run for a few minutes first, then his TDS readings are likely meaningless.

If you have an inline TDS meter, you can watch the TDS coming out of the membrane drop in the first 1-2 minutes after turning on the system.
 
Flushing should be done for at least a couple of minutes every time the system has been unused for more than an hour or so. Otherwise, TDS creep sends high TDS product water through the system. Your comment that "it's flushed by now" makes no sense.

If the OP is measuring the TDS of his product water without doing a flush or at least letting the water run for a few minutes first, then his TDS readings are likely meaningless.

If you have an inline TDS meter, you can watch the TDS coming out of the membrane drop in the first 1-2 minutes after turning on the system.

none of that has to do with rejection rate. we’re way past basics. again, please read post #1 and all replies after that.
 
Don't assume. I have read the entire thread. Post #1 lacks a lot of vital information, so do us all a favor and stop repeating the obvious and useless.
If the OP is not starting up the system correctly, then his TDS measurements, and thus the rejection rate calculation, are wrong. So yes, this has everything to do with the supposed rejection rate.
 
Don't assume. I have read the entire thread. Post #1 lacks a lot of vital information, so do us all a favor and stop repeating the obvious and useless.
If the OP is not starting up the system correctly, then his TDS measurements, and thus the rejection rate calculation, are wrong. So yes, this has everything to do with the supposed rejection rate.

if you had read all the posts, you would know this is all irrelevant now. ;)
 
if you had read all the posts, you would know this is all irrelevant now. ;)

I've read them all again, and I'm not seeing whatever it is that so obviously makes this all irrelevant... maybe you can enlighten me, rather than accusing and repeating the same thing over and over again. If I'm that dense, I'll gladly own up to it. ;Facepalm
 
membrane was replaced months ago. it’s flushed by now. please go back to post #1 and read all posts after that. thanks.

I think we are getting "flushed" mixed up here. I see it done in other RO threads. I think you are referring to the cleaning of the RO membrane, which according to our old RO guru doesn't really do much for our home units. What PhreeByrd is talking about is having a bypass setup after the membrane that bypasses the DI canisters so you can get rid of TDS creep. The OP should be taking his post RO reading after the RO has been running for a few minutes to not pickup the tds creep.

If the OPs reading of 20 after the membrane is correct, he will get around 200 gallons of 0 TDS water from a normal DI cartridge.
 
I think we are getting "flushed" mixed up here. I see it done in other RO threads. I think you are referring to the cleaning of the RO membrane, which according to our old RO guru doesn't really do much for our home units. What PhreeByrd is talking about is having a bypass setup after the membrane that bypasses the DI canisters so you can get rid of TDS creep. The OP should be taking his post RO reading after the RO has been running for a few minutes to not pickup the tds creep.

If the OPs reading of 20 after the membrane is correct, he will get around 200 gallons of 0 TDS water from a normal DI cartridge.

oh no, i’m fully aware of what he’s talking about. i am very well versed in water purification. ;)
 
oh no, i’m fully aware of what he’s talking about. i am very well versed in water purification. ;)

Then I personally don't understand your comment to him. It would be nice to know the timing of the post RO reading.
 

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