RODI only producing waste water

i know im new to the hobby and i appreciate the insight but i think based on my trial and errors and the specs for the membrane clearly say 60psi for functionality i think buying a new membrane would be the illogical decision. It also is reading 2 TDS after the membrane so isnt that a clear sign that the membrane is still functioning? The Booster pump is already an upgrade to any ones system regardless of their natural house pressure so me buying a booster will a) either solve my problem AND ill have a more productive system or b) it wont solve my problem and ill need a new membrane and ill still have a booster for a productive system. But im pretty sure A is the correct scenario

I don't know where you found specs for this membrane. I did eventually google it, and found almost nothing, even from the manufacturer (http://www.aquaee.com/), aside from the fact that their published production rates are using 50psi pressure at 77 degrees F with 250 ppm softened water as the (required) source. So it's obvious that you don't need 60 psi water pressure for this membrane to perform. If you found something that "clearly" says otherwise, it would be extremely helpful to read that. Please post a link to that info. I couldn't find it.

No, a TDS of 2 after the membrane does not mean everything is fine. It does mean that the membrane is probably intact and is not ruptured. It can still be clogged, which will reduce production.

There's nothing illogical about replacing the membrane. It's generally considered part of regular, periodic maintenance for home RO systems. The illogical thing to do would be put a nitrous oxide kit on a broken moped engine and expect it to go faster... which is pretty much what you're saying you want to do.

IMO, the logical progression of repairs/fixes would be:
Replace all filters
Replace Flow Restrictor
Replace membrane
Verify flow rates per mfr's published rates.

If you're not happy with the production at this point, then it might be time for a booster pump.
 
Well just a update and wanted to make sure that the pressure gauge will flutter like this. I'm glad to actually see 0tds RO water being made though so It was definitely a pressure problem. Sorry for the quality but it flutters 70-80 at a high speed I can go as high as 90-100 but just kept it below as I want to go to high
 
You can choose to continue to ignore this, but either your R/O membrane is clogged or something is plumbed incorrectly. Your gauge needle should not be fluctuating at all in a properly working system.

You should also not exceed 80 psi on any plumbing not specifically designed for high pressure. There is a good reason plumbing codes prohibit pressures greater than this.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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