RODI PROB

tom reilly

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The TDS was starting to creep up on my RODI unit so I replaced DI resin,the carbon cart, and the paticulate cart. Making water for water change and in about 35 gallons the DI resin has changed color and TDS is creeping up again. I have a water softener which should help make it last even longer. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
 
The TDS was starting to creep up on my RODI unit so I replaced DI resin,the carbon cart, and the paticulate cart. Making water for water change and in about 35 gallons the DI resin has changed color and TDS is creeping up again. I have a water softener which should help make it last even longer. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

What is the TDS of your water before it goes through your rodi?
 
What RO/DI unit do you have? And are you sure the cartridges are in correctly. Only reason I ask is I put mine in upside down one time and it pretty much did the same thing until I realized my mistake.
 
What RO/DI unit do you have? And are you sure the cartridges are in correctly. Only reason I ask is I put mine in upside down one time and it pretty much did the same thing until I realized my mistake.
Its from Fountainhead Water Systems. Yes its put together correctly. There is no upside down on these carts.
 
Not new but less than 750 gals to date. I was told it was good for @ 3000 gals. It took less than 50 gals to exhaust a new refill if DI resin. Something else is wrong.

Hmm... I don't remember for sure but I think 9 is kinda high coming out of the ro membrane.
As far as your 40 gallons made with higher tds if it was me I wouldn't use it but that's just me.

Just reread your post. If it was 0 tds I would use it. Even 1 tds is ok
 
Hmm... I don't remember for sure but I think 9 is kinda high coming out of the ro membrane.
As far as your 40 gallons made with higher tds if it was me I wouldn't use it but that's just me.

Just reread your post. If it was 0 tds I would use it. Even 1 tds is ok
Appreciate your input. Ordered new membrane. Got enough to keep ATO and 35 gal water change till it comes.
 
At this point its 6
TDS is 9 coming off the membrane.

That's either 96% or 97% rejection....I'm not sure that's your problem. Can 6 ppm blow out a DI cart in 50 gallons?

How's water pressure? How's the rejection rate (waste:product)?

What TDS do you get from measuring the final RODI product water? (The blue is a dye and doesn't necessarily reflect DI activity.)
 
Let's back up a bit here...

You want to monitor TDS in three locations on your system: 1) feedwater (tap water); 2) RO water; and 3) DI water. You said:

Tapwater = 235 ppm
RO = 6 ppm
DI = something higher than 0 ppm

Is this correct?

What is the pressure on the system gauge while the system is running?

Russ
 
Let's back up a bit here...

You want to monitor TDS in three locations on your system: 1) feedwater (tap water); 2) RO water; and 3) DI water. You said:

Tapwater = 235 ppm
RO = 6 ppm
DI = something higher than 0 ppm

Is this correct?

What is the pressure on the system gauge while the system is running?

Russ
House water pressure @ 50lbs. After replacing DI resin it made about 75 gals and resin dye changed from blue to brown. I shut it off when TDS reached 6.
 
Water pressure at 50 psi. OK. Good info.

Still not clear to me if the following TDS readings are correct or not:
Tapwater = 235 ppm
RO = 6 ppm
DI = something higher than 0 ppm
 
The BRS folks were saying somewhere that DI resin that is exposed to air while stored would not last as long. They vacuum seal their stuff. I bought a 1.5 gallon bag that they only recommend if you are going to be making a lot of water in a relatively shorter time because once the seal is broken the DI resin life will start decreasing. At least that's what I understood from what they were saying. Was your replacement resin stored for a long period? Was it in a vacuum packed bag?
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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