RODI unit help.

Mordie101

Well-Known Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 30, 2018
Messages
781
Reaction score
532
Location
Jackson area
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Okay. I’m super confused. I have a BRS 4 stage plus unit. I stopped reefing for a bit and now I’m back into it.
Setting it up.
I have my blue line going to my brute can. My red line is the supply.
The black hose is connected to the valve that is used to flush the system.
What is waste water and where does it come from? When I run the system it takes me a week to fill up a 30 gallon brute trash can. What am I doing wrong? New filters and I have a booster pump set to 60psi.
I HAVE TO BE DOING IT WRONG. any advice or pictures would help.
 
Waste water is the water full of molecules and contaminates your membrane refuses to allow to pass through. Depending on your pressure (which determines efficiency) you're likely to produce anywhere from 3-5 gallons of waste water for every gallon of R/O you make.

Not sure about the BRS unit as I haven't used one before
 
Okay. I’m super confused. I have a BRS 4 stage plus unit. I stopped reefing for a bit and now I’m back into it.
Setting it up.
I have my blue line going to my brute can. My red line is the supply.
The black hose is connected to the valve that is used to flush the system.
What is waste water and where does it come from? When I run the system it takes me a week to fill up a 30 gallon brute trash can. What am I doing wrong? New filters and I have a booster pump set to 60psi.
I HAVE TO BE DOING IT WRONG. any advice or pictures would help.
Send us some photos! I'd be happy to take a look.
 
image.jpg
 
Send us some photos! I'd be happy to take a look.
I attached a video. Not sure if it worked. I also posted pictures. So the booster pump is being fed from sink. The black line in between booster and input is connected. The red line is going from the output of the unit to the input of the extra canister. The blue line is connected to the output of the extra canister to the brute bin that’s the clean water. The black hose leaving the ball valve is the flush valve system. It’s run into my sink drain. My current psi is 60 with the valve closed. With it open it drops to 10. I assume because it’s no longer running through the unit and is just dumping the water straight to the drain.
All new filter and media.
 
The black line in the last picture with the valve is your waste line. There shouldn’t be a valve on it, but there should be a restrictor. The only reason it would have a valve is if it is after a tee to allow you to bypass the restrictor to flush the membrane. Without a restrictor you won’t be able to make very much water because the water will go straight out of the waste and it won’t be forced through the membrane.
 
With it open it drops to 10. I assume because it’s no longer running through the unit and is just dumping the water straight to the drain.
Yea this is why you can’t produce water. You seem to be missing a restrictor in the waste.
It very hard to follow your setup. Is the canister by itself the di resin?
 
Yea this is why you can’t produce water. You seem to be missing a restrictor in the waste.
It very hard to follow your setup. Is the canister by itself the di resin?
Yes I’m sorry I know the set up is wonky. So instead of a valve I need a flow restrictor. This will allow me to have pressure within the system and bleed the waste water through the flow restrictor. Throw a T or Y fitting prior to the restrictor to allow flush valve and restrictor.
I assume this is what I need to do. I hope it makes sense how I tried to explain it.
 
Also it looks like you’re taking the clean water from the membrane and passing it through the 3rd cartridge, which looks like a sediment filter which won’t be right.
 
Yes I’m sorry I know the set up is wonky. So instead of a valve I need a flow restrictor. This will allow me to have pressure within the system and bleed the waste water through the flow restrictor. Throw a T or Y fitting prior to the restrictor to allow flush valve and restrictor.
I assume this is what I need to do. I hope it makes sense how I tried to explain it.
It’s actually easier just to replace that valve with a valve with a flow restrictor built in. When “closed” it has a small hole for the waste to flow through and when open it allows the membrane to be flushed.
 
Hold up is this backwards? I've always seen it go right to left, not left to right. But I've also only used aqua fx.

Edit: it looks right actually. There are inline flow restrictors that some brands use, its kind of like a thin straw. You can tell if you have one because if you open the flush valve you should get way more flow out of the waste line, meaning the main line has flow restriction. That is what a flush kit does, bypass the flow restrictions to flush the membrane.
 
Last edited:
It’s actually easier just to replace that valve with a valve with a flow restrictor built in. When “closed” it has a small hole for the waste to flow through and when open it allows the membrane to be flushed.
Thanks for the link.
Yes the extra canister is the DI resin.
I added a spare canister and thought that was the correct way. Should I move the canister water lines somewhere else on the unit?
 
Adding
Hold up is this backwards? I've always seen it go right to left, not left to right. But I've also only used aqua fx
Almost every rodi I’ve seen is left to right, and even my aqua fx barricuda is left to right. For the normal canisters it would just change the direction that the water flowed through the filter which I doubt would hurt anything.
 
Thanks for the link.
Yes the extra canister is the DI resin.
I added a spare canister and thought that was the correct way. Should I move the canister water lines somewhere else on the unit?
No adding the extra canister for di resin is fine but it means that you need to change the plumbing so that the water goes through all 3 canisters on the filter (assuming the 3rd one is a sediment or carbon) before it feeds into the membrane. Then the permeate (good) water from the membrane should go over to your extra di canister then to your storage container. The concentrate (waste) side of the membrane should go through a restrictor, and then you can use the one with a flush valve or have a tee or wye with a ball valve that bypasses the restrictor to flush the membrane periodically.

Also your tds probe should be moved to after the di canister that was added.
 
Last edited:
Okay so this picture shows you don't have a flush kit. I think I misread that when you mentioned you use the black line to flush the system haha. This shows a valve on your waste water line that then leads to a high pressure shut off. The valve on the black line should be open *unless* you have low pressure. Without a booster pump, you can valve back the waste to add more pressure to the system. I find it hard to belive you could hit 60 psi without a flow restriction
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top