RODI unit help.

[Gtinnel]

Okay so this picture shows you don't have a flush kit. This shows a valve on your waste water line that then leads to a high pressure shut off. The valve on the black line should be open *unless* you have low pressure. Without a booster pump, you can valve back the waste to add more pressure to the system.

There has to be a restriction in the waste line to properly produce water regardless of what the source pressure is. Also, the waste line doesn’t go through the auto shut off valve, it should have the feed to the membrane and the permeate from the membrane going through it.

 

[Mordie101]

No adding the extra canister for di resin is fine but it means that you need to change the plumbing so that the water goes through all 3 canisters on the filter (assuming the 3rd one is a sediment or carbon) before it feeds into the membrane. Then the permeate (good) water from the membrane should go over to your extra di canister then to your storage container. The condensate (waste) side of the membrane should go through a restrictor, and then you can use the one with a flush valve or have a tee or wye with a ball valve that bypasses the restrictor to flush the membrane periodically.

Also your tds probe should be moved to after the di canister that was added.

Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out. Gonna grab that part and give it a shot after I rearrange everything. Once again I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to help.

 

[Gtinnel]

Hold up is this backwards? I've always seen it go right to left, not left to right. But I've also only used aqua fx.

Hey sorry you are correct that the aqua fx units do go right to left. I just realized my di is on the far left. However, with the BRS units it should be left to right. The far right canister was originally setup as the di, which is why it is turned 90 degrees, so the fitting are on the front and back because it doesn’t get the feed from the previous canister.

 

[Gtinnel]

Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out. Gonna grab that part and give it a shot after I rearrange everything. Once again I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to help.

Here is a diagram I found from BRS that shows the way yours would be ran. You would only have 1 di stage and it doesn’t show the shut off valve but other than that this is what you want.

 

[Roatan Reef]

This is my Aquatic Life 100GPD RODI Filter, it's put up right now, but most lines are similar in color.

The Blue Line is your filtered RODI water as the last phase is running through the DI filter.

Yellow Tube is Water Source.

Red Tube is Waste Water.

Me thinks you got something backwards.

I can make 5 gallons of RODI in 20 minutes.