RODI unit Tips and Placement?

[Reefinometry]

Hooking up my RODI unit today and been watching videos on setup.

Any tips or where it should be placed relative to my storage tanks?

I heard you should keep the membranes wet all the time, so any tips or helpful suggestions on getting the most life out of the unit.

Thanks!

 

[lapin]

Most people hang them on the wall over a sink (water source) or your storage tanks.
The membrane will stay wet unless you dont run it for a month.

 

[Reefinometry]

Most people hang them on the wall over a sink (water source) or your storage tanks.
The membrane will stay wet unless you dont run it for a month.

Should I hang them above the containers? Or below the containers?

 

[lapin]

Above, so you can access the canisters

 

[Reefinometry]

Above, so you can access the canisters

Ok my only thought was that all the water would drain down into the containers leaving the filters and membrane dry

 

[lapin]

Most people mount them like this

 

[Opus]

Ok my only thought was that all the water would drain down into the containers leaving the filters and membrane dry

As long as you keep it hooked up to the water source, it should not drain. Also, most of the water is in the pre-filter canisters or DI canister and the output line is at the top of the canister, assuming you have the most common setup.

 

[Reefinometry]

As long as you keep it hooked up to the water source, it should not drain. Also, most of the water is in the pre-filter canisters or DI canister and the output line is at the top of the canister, assuming you have the most common setup.

What else should I check for besides TDS? I'm running at about 60 PSI and my TDS before it goes into DI is 20. After DI I'm at 0.

 

[Opus]

What else should I check for besides TDS? I'm running at about 60 PSI and my TDS before it goes into DI is 20. After DI I'm at 0.

20 sounds high but it depends on your tap tds. My tap runs around 450 and my tds before the DI is 3 to 4, which means I'm running at 99% rejection rate. The RO membranes from the better known RO places such as BRS, Air water ice and spectrapure or going to run around 98 to 99%. 60psi is a good pressure.

 

[Mical]

I agree w/ @Opus , mine tap also runs about 450, after membranes it's 4 then after resin -0. A tip: when you first start making water, open your flush valve for roughly 5 minutes or so. When I first "fire" mine up, TDS after membranes is usually at 150 or so, I let it run until TDS meter reads 10 or less then close the valve. You're flushing TDS creep out of the system.

 

[Chipper1978]

Here is my setup.

 

[Reefinometry]

20 sounds high but it depends on your tap tds. My tap runs around 450 and my tds before the DI is 3 to 4, which means I'm running at 99% rejection rate. The RO membranes from the better known RO places such as BRS, Air water ice and spectrapure or going to run around 98 to 99%. 60psi is a good pressure.

How often are the sediment filters and carbon blocks changed? And the membranes?

 

[Mical]

How often are the sediment filters and carbon blocks changed? And the membranes?

I usually get 6-8 months from my sediment filter and carbon block. I can tell when I notice a substantial drop on my pressure gauge. I run a BRS booster pump and try to keep my pressure at about 85-90psi. when it gets below 80 - 75psi I buy replacements.

 

[Opus]

How often are the sediment filters and carbon blocks changed? And the membranes?

If you don't go the pressure drop route, then 6 months is the rule of thumb for pre-filters. I use a special sediment filter from Spectrapure that is supposed to last 5x longer than normal. Carbon isn't necessarily how clogged it gets, but does it have the ability to still absorb/break down chemicals. The carbon filter is there to mainly remove chlorine or if you buy a special one, chloramines. That is why you should get the latest copy of your water districts water quality report, assuming you are not on a well. If your district uses chloramines then you really should invest in a special carbon filter to remove it or it will just eat up your DI. If they are using chlorine then you want the "normal" carbon block and just make sure you change it every 6 or so months. If chlorine gets thru it will destroy the ro membrane.
Ro membrane should last 4+ years unless you are making a ton of water. Mine is over 2 years old and it is still at 99% efficiency.

 

[Reefinometry]

20 sounds high but it depends on your tap tds. My tap runs around 450 and my tds before the DI is 3 to 4, which means I'm running at 99% rejection rate. The RO membranes from the better known RO places such as BRS, Air water ice and spectrapure or going to run around 98 to 99%. 60psi is a good pressure.

I got it down to 14 TDS after the flush is that better?

 

[Opus]

I got it down to 14 TDS after the flush is that better?

Need to know your tap tds to make that call.

 

[Reefinometry]

Need to know your tap tds to make that call.

Over 350

 

[K7BMG]

You can put valves on the source and product lines.
This way you can shut them off when not in use and the RO/DI will never dry out.

 

[Reefinometry]

You can put valves on the source and product lines.
This way you can shut them off when not in use and the RO/DI will never dry out.

Do I also need one on the waste line?

 

[K7BMG]

Yes forgot about that line.

It really depends on how long you go between uses.
If your making water every month then I doubt you need to worry at all.