RODI water 007ppm

PeterEde

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Hi all I'm new to all this and just starting to produce RO water.
After flushing my first 60 litre is at 007ppm good enough for a new setup?
How can I get it lower if not?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Make sure you read/watch how to install properly, how to place prongs.


Should have told you that you might want to consider a 3 probe one.

One before ro, one after ro, and one after di.

So you can see how each stage is doing.
I got the 2x (in and out)
My water in is notoriously hard. over 300 from tap.
 
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I got the 2x (in and out)
My water in is notoriously hard. over 300 from tap.
Got cha. We'll if that's the case you may want/need to get another resin stage anyway. Then your dual will work fine, but you might want another.

One probe before ro, after ro. Then between di stages and after last di stage.

Measuring directly before and after ro membrane and watching to see if it's still removing at least 95% is a good way to know when to change it. That way it's not outputting high and eating up your resin.
 
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I sent an email to AquaMedic regarding my NON 0 TDS RO water.
There response was
"a measured value of zero is impossible. As a rule, depending on the source water, osmosis systems have a value of 20 to 90 µS/cm. Our Platinum Line Plus is without downstream ion exchanger at 4-5 ppm."
 
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I sent an email to AquaMedic regarding my NON 0 TDS RO water.
There response was
"a measured value of zero is impossible. As a rule, depending on the source water, osmosis systems have a value of 20 to 90 µS/cm. Our Platinum Line Plus is without downstream ion exchanger at 4-5 ppm."
A little confused, so do you only have a ro membrane with no di resin stage?
 
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I have 3 canisters
1 RO Membrane
1 Carbon
1 particle filter
Aqua Medic Premium 300
Ah... like this?

There is your issue. You don't have a di resin stage after the ro membrane.

The ro membrane will only reduce your tds by 98%. So if you have 300 incoming tds, your going to have about 6-7tds coming out. You need to add at least one di resin stage after. It will polish it off to zero. You may want to add two though cause 7 tds might eat up your resin faster than you want to have to replace it. That's something you might want to research or ask brs about. I'm not really sure when they they start recommending two di stages over one.

Hold on, and all send you a link to a single and double stage di resin.

Screenshot_20211110-161345_Chrome.jpg
 
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I have 3 canisters
1 RO Membrane
1 Carbon
1 particle filter
Aqua Medic Premium 300


Single di resin stage.



They also have a single that comes with a tds meter like you already bought. With it you could test before and after membrane with the one you have. And then before and after di stage with the one that comes with it.
 
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Hi all I'm new to all this and just starting to produce RO water.
After flushing my first 60 litre is at 007ppm good enough for a new setup?
How can I get it lower if not?

Thanks
We should have caught when you said produce ro water.... you want to produce rodi water!
 
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This was sold to me by my local aquarium that has been operating for decades.
Do I need DI?
Sorry just now getting back to you.

If you want corals, I would say yes for sure.

If you want fish only, then I would research and ask around.

Rodi is what ever one here uses pretty much.
 
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Not finding the single canisters locally. Next visit to the store I'll ask if they have the single DI canister. Importing from BRS will take a while.
You don't have to order from brs. Lots of people make them and sell the resin. Possibly even the aqua medics you got that one from. I haven't looked.
 
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You don't have to order from brs. Lots of people make them and sell the resin. Possibly even the aqua medics you got that one from. I haven't looked.
I'll check with the store next visit. I have read as long as TDS is less than 10ppm it's fine.
 
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I get down to 1 TDS on a 4 stage rodi, my water hovers between 250-300 tds pre filtration. A tds 7 sounds like its a little high for one reason or another. I use a calibrated cheapo tds meter from Amazon, works fine enough. I learned quickly what happens when something is exhausted, gha became a problem quick!!!
 
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I get down to 1 TDS on a 4 stage rodi, my water hovers between 250-300 tds pre filtration. A tds 7 sounds like its a little high for one reason or another. I use a calibrated cheapo tds meter from Amazon, works fine enough. I learned quickly what happens when something is exhausted, gha became a problem quick!!!
Adelaide is notorious for it's hard water. A visitor was asked once what he thought of Adelaide water and said he liked it it had body/taste.
 
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Tank arrives tomorrow then the fun begins.
To cycle for months or cheat and add liquid biologicals and ammonia?
Get some bottle bacteria unless you are starting with good live rock would be my suggestion.
 
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This was sold to me by my local aquarium that has been operating for decades.
Do I need DI?

Most people use DI too.

RO alone is often adequate (well, so is tap water without treatment), but DI ensures that it is always adequate.

For example, the very highest levels of copper in tap water are often above 1 ppm. In line for an RO, it might be even higher since flow is low.

Take out 95% with an RO and you may still have 50 ppb copper. That sounds like too much to me, hence the desire to use a DI.

Also, if there is chloramine in the tap water, an RO only will have ammonia in it. The DI will remove the ammonia.
 
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