Salt that mixes near 8.5dKh

Nothing wrong with chemicals. Our reefs won't survive without chemicals (or anything else). This is the active ingredient in Seachem acid buffer I think it is. Here is screenshot of what Randy said. It's very simple to remove alk from seawater.

Once you find the amount for your mixing container and dkh you want (test alk a few times) just write it on the bottle. I think I add 1/2 tsp before I add the salt mix. Easy peasy!

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Thanks!!
 
why add chemicals (in my opinion) when one can leave a pump running in the mixing bin for extra day or 2. heat and precipitation will drop alk many dkh.
I've seen this posted several times now, and I have yet to see it happen in my mixing barrels.

I mix up 50G at a time with a panworld 40px that is constantly running, along with 2 korralia nano pumps I had laying around. I mix up my water weeks in advance, and have never seen ALK drop from heat and mixing.

FWIW I use regular old purple box IO, and have pretty consistent ALK @ 10DKH. I of course do use a bit of muriatic acid to lower it back down to 8.5.
 
I've seen this posted several times now, and I have yet to see it happen in my mixing barrels.

I mix up 50G at a time with a panworld 40px that is constantly running, along with 2 korralia nano pumps I had laying around. I mix up my water weeks in advance, and have never seen ALK drop from heat and mixing.

FWIW I use regular old purple box IO, and have pretty consistent ALK @ 10DKH. I of course do use a bit of muriatic acid to lower it back down to 8.5.
I use regular IO and I can attest to seeing a drop in alk if I don't use it right away. I just add some liquid soda ash to bring it back up.
 
I use LiveAquaria salt and it always mixes right around 8.5 dKH.


 
I use live Aquaria pro salt for this exact reason. It's usually right at 8.5.
 
I use live Aquaria pro salt for this exact reason. It's usually right at 8.5.

I will say, for me, it takes a while to mix. I am usually in no rush though. It has been very consistent through three batches since it first launched.

 


I will say, for me, it takes a while to mix. I am usually in no rush though. It has been very consistent through three batches since it first launched.

Really? I keep the rodi at 78 and mix it in the bucket. I use it 20-30 minutes later. I use an white bucket and it is already clear blue.

I wish it came in individual bags because you can't fit the whole bag in a bucket. That's my gripe.
 
Everyone loves the red sea blue bucket it seems. At 74.00$ a bucket, I can buy 2 boxes of regular old IO and a 5$ gallon bottle of muriatic acid(lasts me nearly a pallet of 200G boxes) and I would still be money ahead. lol

I guess for me, salt is salt it all has the same ingredients just some have more then others. With this hobby being expensive enough, anyplace you can save money, specially on consumables(Randy's DIY 2 part anyone?), is great in my eyes.
 
IO has always mixed to 12-13 for me. But I'm moving to HW because the last box mixed to 6.7DKH/500CA and the box before that was way off at 17DKH/700CA.

Upon BRS analysis - hw-Marinemix Reefer contained Calcium at 445-450 ppm, Alk of 9.0 dKH, Magnesium at 1380 ppm.
I use HW Marine and mix to 1.026 and my alk is in the high 8's, Cal around 420 to 430 and mag at 1380.
 
Everyone loves the red sea blue bucket it seems. At 74.00$ a bucket, I can buy 2 boxes of regular old IO and a 5$ gallon bottle of muriatic acid(lasts me nearly a pallet of 200G boxes) and I would still be money ahead. lol

I guess for me, salt is salt it all has the same ingredients just some have more then others. With this hobby being expensive enough, anyplace you can save money, specially on consumables(Randy's DIY 2 part anyone?), is great in my eyes.
I agree, Red Sea is expensive...I also agree that salt is salt. On the other hand, it makes sense to use a salt that matches your numbers as close as you can......not only to reduce the amounts you need to dose, but also for tank stability.
 
I agree, Red Sea is expensive...I also agree that salt is salt. On the other hand, it makes sense to use a salt that matches your numbers as close as you can......not only to reduce the amounts you need to dose, but also for tank stability.
The LA pro salt is $49.99 w/ shipping for a 200G box. I couldn't bring myself to buy the red sea salt.
 
I've never had IO mix above 11 dKh (typically 10.5-10.7) but RC is higher. I go the muriatic acid route, it's easy to do and I like the low cost and widespread availability of IO; if I'm in a pinch, I can hit the LFS, Petco, or the like and find IO without issue. I transfer the muriatic acid to a smaller container so it's easier to manage.

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#Brighwell and I use #D&D salt for the last 5 years with no issues or residue left in my saltwater mixing barrels.
These are my go to for my SPS tanks!

th

or

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I use Aquaforest Reef Salt, it mixes in the 8’s at 34ppt. They also have a batch code in every box so you can see the ICP testing of that batch, You can also check this out before buying if you get it from a store as it is printed on a sticker on the side of the box.
 
The LA pro salt is $49.99 w/ shipping for a 200G box. I couldn't bring myself to buy the red sea salt.

And if you buy it from Drs. Fosters and Smith you can get an addition 15-40% off depending on the time of the month. I got mine for $32 each. Even cheaper than IO.
 
And if you buy it from Drs. Fosters and Smith you can get an addition 15-40% off depending on the time of the month. I got mine for $32 each. Even cheaper than IO.
I think my last box was on sale as well. I didn't even need it yet but it was too cheap to pass up.
 
I haven't testing an IO batch in awhile but it's generally 9.X for me. I do let it mix for a couple days usually, so maybe that is dropping it a little. I have never seen it mix to 13 like was mentioned earlier, but I was routinely seeing RC mix that high.

I really like what I'm reading about the blue bucket RS but the IO is just so cheap and my corals are growing very well, so I just can't bring myself to change anything at this point.
 

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