SC Aquariums 150 gallon build

Idea for inspiration:

I had a bunch of pallet wood in the garage. The top and bottom “frame” pieces are 1/2” furring strips from Lowe’s. I’m currently finishing it with a product called Flat Out Flat, a topcoat with zero shine.
ine is attached with magnets, but you could get some heavy duty Velcro for the aluminum stand.

A25099BE-FC06-455B-AF0D-20E6B3F71338.jpeg

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That looks awesome. I really like the look of these metal stands without any skins haha. My wife however does not appreciate seeing the equipment. I think I have talked her into the aluminum stand and we got the wheels turning on ideas for skins. This is definitely a look to consider so thank you!

On a side note, how are you guys liking the SCA tanks? I have been looking into a custom 180 but these are way cheaper and that's a little concerning but the photos from both of your builds looks quite good. I was leaning against a euro brace but it looks pretty good.
 
Idea for inspiration:

I had a bunch of pallet wood in the garage. The top and bottom “frame” pieces are 1/2” furring strips from Lowe’s. I’m currently finishing it with a product called Flat Out Flat, a topcoat with zero shine.
ine is attached with magnets, but you could get some heavy duty Velcro for the aluminum stand.

A25099BE-FC06-455B-AF0D-20E6B3F71338.jpeg

7B6174CD-3723-4C43-849D-EE0768F45C49.jpeg
I love that look! I'm saving the pallets from the tank shipment for that reason.
 
To do over again, I think I might have had the corners setup like this. It's not a big deal, overall I am very happy with what I have.

1616596883138.png
 
I’m happy with my SCA aquarium. Recently a couple bad tanks showed up on the Facebook group. One had a seam separate, then the replacement had a crack develop from one of the return holes. Another was not level at the base. Looks like the seller has been responsive, which is good.

@DaveC you’re planning a plywood top, right? SCA recommends a 3/4” plywood base...
 
I’m happy with my SCA aquarium. Recently a couple bad tanks showed up on the Facebook group. One had a seam separate, then the replacement had a crack develop from one of the return holes. Another was not level at the base. Looks like the seller has been responsive, which is good.

@DaveC you’re planning a plywood top, right? SCA recommends a 3/4” plywood base...

Yeah,

I'm part of that group and have seen the trouble. It looks like Steve is on top of it and that's what matters. I have a 3/4” plywood base and am painting the mat to look somewhat like sand. I plan on starting bare bottom.
 
To do over again, I think I might have had the corners setup like this. It's not a big deal, overall I am very happy with what I have.

1616596883138.png
Why flip the corner mounting? I kind of like the security of having the top beams solid all the way across but am curious to your reasoning. I'm sure either way is stable enough because of how the load is spread out across the plywood.
 
Why flip the corner mounting? I kind of like the security of having the top beams solid all the way across but am curious to your reasoning. I'm sure either way is stable enough because of how the load is spread out across the plywood.

Pure aesthetics and is completely nitpicking about the endcaps.
 
Mine was taking FOREVER to fill. I finally gave up halfway and plumbed the RODI waste water line to fill the rest of the tank. Our well water is very clean; TDS <0.05. (I was also worried about how all the bypass water was going to affect my septic, 170 x 3 = 510 extra gallons of water into my septic tank...). One month in and I’ve seen no I’ll effects.
 
Mine was taking FOREVER to fill. I finally gave up halfway and plumbed the RODI waste water line to fill the rest of the tank. Our well water is very clean; TDS <0.05. (I was also worried about how all the bypass water was going to affect my septic, 170 x 3 = 510 extra gallons of water into my septic tank...). One month in and I’ve seen no I’ll effects.

Yeah, completely depends on your water. I think the cumulation effect over time is much worse than the first fill.
 
Pure aesthetics and is completely nitpicking about the endcaps.
Dave;

I work with some pretty heavy equipment made from that extrusion, and trust me, the way you have it already is the much highly preferred method. No matter how well you clamp it, there is always a risk of slippage. Having a contiguous top beam like you have on your tank is much much much more solid in the long term.

I would recommend some corner gussets though to prevent sideways shifting in both the x and y planes. Can get ready made plates and brackets for that at most places that sell extrusion.
 
Dave;

I work with some pretty heavy equipment made from that extrusion, and trust me, the way you have it already is the much highly preferred method. No matter how well you clamp it, there is always a risk of slippage. Having a contiguous top beam like you have on your tank is much much much more solid in the long term.

I would recommend some corner gussets though to prevent sideways shifting in both the x and y planes. Can get ready made plates and brackets for that at most places that sell extrusion.

Thanks for that. Good to know.

EDIT: I need to get some parts to attach the side and a few other things. I'll add the gussets to the list. ;)
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

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  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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