Self-piercing saddle valves and RO units

[littlebigreef]

I'm in the process of setting up my old RO unit. I had used previously it at my apartment with an adaptor for the bathroom faucet. I am able to mount the unit in my shop/sump room about 24"~30" away from my cold water line. I'd like to use a self-piercing saddle valve to deliver the water.

1) will I have enough pressure actually run the unit efficiently? The water pressure in our house is pretty good. The RO unit is an older coralife unit so there's no pressure gauge.

2) I will need to snake the waste water line up through my kitchen floor and have it empty into my sink. Would it be detrimental to operate the unit with 3'-4' of head on the waste line?

A few things; I'm replacing the filters and membrane. Also, I have no way to get rid of waste water in my basement. So, the unit is either downstairs with head on the waste line -or- the unit is upstairs with head on the in line.

What say you?

 

[Jeepguy242]

i have mine plumbed from the cold water line under the kitchen sink with the waste line running up into my attic across the entire house to my daughters freshwater planted loach tank.... up 12 feet, and over 80 feet of 1/4" tube back down the wall to the tank.... the RO line goes to my 125 gallon reef then into the attic to my water collection / salt mix brute can in my garage....

my daughters tank has an overflow on it that i plumbed through an exterior wall.... every time my auto topoff turns on her tank gets a small water change...

i have been running it this way for 11 years now.... its a 150 gallon per day unit and i can fill a 45 gallon brute can in the garage in about 8 hours once a week if i turn the system to full on when i want to do a water change....

so i guess my answer would be i dont think the head pressure will be a problem

 

[littlebigreef]

i have mine plumbed from the cold water line under the kitchen sink with the waste line running up into my attic across the entire house to my daughters freshwater planted loach tank.... up 12 feet, and over 80 feet of 1/4" tube back down the wall to the tank.... the RO line goes to my 125 gallon reef then into the attic to my water collection / salt mix brute can in my garage....

my daughters tank has an overflow on it that i plumbed through an exterior wall.... every time my auto topoff turns on her tank gets a small water change...

i have been running it this way for 11 years now.... its a 150 gallon per day unit and i can fill a 45 gallon brute can in the garage in about 8 hours once a week if i turn the system to full on when i want to do a water change....

so i guess my answer would be i dont think the head pressure will be a problem

Thanks Jeepguy242, I had a feeling it would probably be ok. But now I want to set up a planted loach tank in our guest bedroom.

 

[five.five-six]

Lots of people use them, personaly I like to replace the L-stop with a 2 output L-stop. Most times it’s just a compression fitting but sme times you have to sweat the old one off. I’d rather not puncture a part of my plumbing that would require drywall damage to repair. Also, L-stops only last about 20 years so if your house is in that range, it might be time to replace them all with the newer 1/4 turn versions which are much easier to shut off in an emergency.

 

[Greybeard]

Saddle taps work, but I feel more secure if I install a 'T' fitting and plumb everything solid.

My RO/DI unit is mounted in a cabinet I built into the wall behind my kitchen sink. Easy to service, short plumbing runs on everything _except_ the 'good water' line that goes to my sump closet. RO is stored in a 5g pressure tank, and plumbed to my fridge for ice and drinking water, as well as a drinking water faucet at the kitchen sink. Back through the DI, and on to the sump closet. The only saddle tap I'm using is the low pressure one that lets me divert waste water into the sink drain. I have a valve that lets me push the waste into my swimming pool during the summer. That run is probably 30 feet, horizontal. I've never noticed a problem due to back pressure when I'm running it that way.

 

[Tbabcock]

I had one and it was a big waste with alot of pressure loss. I picked up this kit at my local hardware store. Just shut the water off, use a tube cutter to remove a small section of pipe and install the fitting. It even has the 1/4" valve already on it.

 

[littlebigreef]

So the cold water line is in our crawl space next to my shop. There's an existing saddle valve which was closed and is not currently used.

I feel replacing the saddle valve is the path of least resistance.

However, we recently had a plumber install a dedicated line for our fridge with a 1/4 turn valve (image included). Ideally I could T it with a separate valve for the RO unit. However, all of the 1/4 turn 'T' valves I have seen have a single valve. Do they make 1/4 turns will separate valves for each line? Or would I need to put a copper 'T' on the existing pipe and do each valve separate?

 

[K. Steven]

So the cold water line is in our crawl space next to my shop. There's an existing saddle valve which was closed and is not currently used.

I feel replacing the saddle valve is the path of least resistance.

However, we recently had a plumber install a dedicated line for our fridge with a 1/4 turn valve (image included). Ideally I could T it with a separate valve for the RO unit. However, all of the 1/4 turn 'T' valves I have seen have a single valve. Do they make 1/4 turns will separate valves for each line? Or would I need to put a copper 'T' on the existing pipe and do each valve separate?

Why not put an angle stop valve there? Fast, easy, and removable with no permanent holes in your plumbing. You could T off the line from the angle stop to divert anywhere you want.

 

[JoshH]

Why not put an angle stop adapter there? Fast, easy, and removable with no permanent holes in your plumbing. You could T off the line from the angle stop to divert anywhere you want.

I second this, cheap, SUPER EASY to install and replaceble if needed...

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/john-guest-angle-stop-valve.html

 

[littlebigreef]

Excellent! K. Steven and JoshH, thanks so much for the advice and the link. I really appreciate it.

 

[K. Steven]

Excellent! K. Steven and JoshH, thanks so much for the advice and the link. I really appreciate it.

No problem. No need to put unnecessary holes in your plumbing when there's an easy alternative.

 

[Leland Foley]

I’m a plumber, I always try to steer people away from saddle valves. They make a tiny hole, which doesn’t allow for proper flow. They are also prone to leaking. It’s always better to use a 1/4 turn valve like others have pictured above. You can get a 2 outlet valve/stop, or solder in a tee and add a dedicated stop for the RO/DI. Which ever one you use, put a 1/4”brass stiffener sleeve in the poly tube, and use a plastic 1/4” ferrule. Dont use the brass ferrule that comes with the stop, it can cut the polyethylene tube very easy.

-Leland

 

[littlebigreef]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate all of the help. I've ordered the angle stop adaptor from BRS and I'm going to move forward with that. I'll post once I have it all together and, once that's done, we can start discussing the best way to plumb together two Ace Roto Mold tanks for holding and mixing water.

 

[K. Steven]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate all of the help. I've ordered the angle stop adaptor from BRS and I'm going to move forward with that. I'll post once I have it all together and, once that's done, we can start discussing the best way to plumb together two Ace Roto Mold tanks for holding and mixing water.

They have them at Home Depot if you need to start making water sooner or want an extra for another sink.

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Three words about Self-piercing saddles: Don't Use Them.

 

[littlebigreef]

I got distracted from this project but here I am. I have the plumbing ready to go. Hoping to put this in tmw.

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Good - MUCH better than a self-piercing saddle.

 

[littlebigreef]

The first part of this project is done and what a convience to make water at home without tying up a sink.

Next step is to tie the waste water line into the plumbing under the sink.

Final phase will be the addition of two RO holding tanks.

 

[ca1ore]

I recently changed my RO location and initially used a saddle valve. Found that the hole it pierced was so small that I was getting very poor pressure to the RODI unit. Expanded the hole with a stepper drill, which fixed the problem ...... until a week later when the &%*%# thing started dripping. Sweated a threaded stub - which is what I should have done in the first place.

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

I recently changed my RO location and initially used a saddle valve. Found that the hole it pierced was so small that I was getting very poor pressure to the RODI unit. Expanded the hole with a stepper drill, which fixed the problem ...... until a week later when the &%*%# thing started dripping. Sweated a threaded stub - which is what I should have done in the first place.

You are about the 10 millionth member of the self-piercing saddles are junk club. Welcome!