Setting up a quarantine tank

[fishnchip]

Hey guys!

I’m looking at getting a new fish this week and had some questions regarding a quarantine tank. If I have established bio media from my display how quickly can I have the quarantine set up? I’m thinking of just setting up a 10 gallon with a heater and hang on the back filter. Is that sufficient? The fish I’m looking to add is a possum wrasse.

Thanks #reefsquad

 

[Brew12]

Hey guys!

I’m looking at getting a new fish this week and had some questions regarding a quarantine tank. If I have established bio media from my display how quickly can I have the quarantine set up? I’m thinking of just setting up a 10 gallon with a heater and hang on the back filter. Is that sufficient? The fish I’m looking to add is a possum wrasse.

Thanks #reefsquad

I feel that salt should be mixed at least a day before putting fish in it when doing a new setup. If you use old tank water instead of completely new salt it can be done very quickly. I've set up a 10g QT with old tank water and a bottle of biospira in under 20 minutes before.

 

[ihavecrabs]

I second @Brew12

Add a Seachem Ammonia badge as well. Insurance policy.. plus it lasts for a year and is a constant ammonia reader.

 

[JBKReef]

I always throw some biospira in with a fresh QT regardless of the cycled media I have. I just feel more comfortable with it.

The 10 gallon QT will be fine. Make sure to have some cover either plastic plants or PVC pipe.

Does the possum wrasse bury itself in sand at night. I have seen some debate about sand being fine or not in QT's but I would provide a Tupperware container of sand for his nightly routine if he is a sand-dweller. My yellow corris wrasse created an abrasion on his side because I realized too late he was trying to bury himself under a piece of pvc every night and rubbed himself raw.

 

[fishnchip]

I feel that salt should be mixed at least a day before putting fish in it when doing a new setup. If you use old tank water instead of completely new salt it can be done very quickly. I've set up a 10g QT with old tank water and a bottle of biospira in under 20 minutes before.

Good to hear! Being that I only have a 32 gallon taking 10 gallons out at once isn’t something I’m looking to do. But I could take 5 gallons during my regular water change and then 5 gallons of new water. How would I know when the tank is okay to add fish??

 

[fishnchip]

I second @Brew12

Add a Seachem Ammonia badge as well. Insurance policy.. plus it lasts for a year and is a constant ammonia reader.

I forgot about that! Thank you!!

 

[ReeferBean]

Good to hear! Being that I only have a 32 gallon taking 10 gallons out at once isn’t something I’m looking to do. But I could take 5 gallons during my regular water change and then 5 gallons of new water. How would I know when the tank is okay to add fish??

Just watch the ammonia level and be prepared to do another water change.

 

[fishnchip]

I always throw some biospira in with a fresh QT regardless of the cycled media I have. I just feel more comfortable with it.

The 10 gallon QT will be fine. Make sure to have some cover either plastic plants or PVC pipe.

Does the possum wrasse bury itself in sand at night. I have seen some debate about sand being fine or not in QT's but I would provide a Tupperware container of sand for his nightly routine if he is a sand-dweller. My yellow corris wrasse created an abrasion on his side because I realized too late he was trying to bury himself under a piece of pvc every night and rubbed himself raw.

I’m not 100% sure but if it does I’ll add some sand in a Tupperware

 

[fishnchip]

I’ve heard a lot of back and forth on whether or not to treat fish right away or not. Should I wait until I see symptoms? or should I treat no matter what?

 

[Billldg]

Possum wrasses don't bury themselves so you can go barebottom, but I would recommend some narrow pieces of PVC as they do find a tight spot and sleep in a cacoon, so a narrow piece of PVC will work.

 

[fishnchip]

Possum wrasses don't bury themselves so you can go barebottom, but in would recommend some narrow pieces of PVC as they do find a tight spot and sleep in a cacoon, so a narrow piece of PVC will work.

I’ll be sure to add a piece in there!

 

[ihavecrabs]

I’ve heard a lot of back and forth on whether or not to treat fish right away or not. Should I wait until I see symptoms? or should I treat no matter what?

That is a personal question that you'll have to balance the risks and benefits of each path. You will likely get 100 different answers

I personally let the new arrives settle in. Normally they come in salt water that is 1.016-18 and need to be put to 1.026 if going in a system with inverts and coral. So I take that time to ease them up in salinity via natural evaporation and get the newcomers eating and fat before starting any treatment. If treatment is required immediately due to signs of disease, then I start immediately.

I do treat all fish for most external and internal parasites. I've been burned by a healthy looking fish in the past.

 

[Brew12]

Good to hear! Being that I only have a 32 gallon taking 10 gallons out at once isn’t something I’m looking to do. But I could take 5 gallons during my regular water change and then 5 gallons of new water. How would I know when the tank is okay to add fish??

If time isn't an issue for me I like to test it by adding 1 to 2ppm of Dr Tims ammonia chloride and make sure it clears within 24 hours. That way I can be confident I won't have any ammonia issues and that my bottle of Biospira hadn't gone bad. Otherwise, just be ready to do regular water changes in case you do get an ammonia issue.

Using old tank water isn't a requirement. I just don't like putting fish in saltwater that is freshly mixed.

I also like to put some macro algae from my fuge in the QT when I set it up. It will bring some pods with it and help process ammonia along with providing shelter. I've had chaeto survive 14 days of copper treatment but be ready to pull it if it starts to die.

 

[ihavecrabs]

Where are you ordering the fish from?

If you do Live Aquaria and don't purchase a divers den specimin, then set the salinity in QT to 1.018. If you do divers den, then 1.026 is fine.

 

[Brew12]

That is a personal question that you'll have to balance the risks and benefits of each path. You will likely get 100 different answers

And very opinionated answers at that! ;Blackeye

I can tell you that every fish that goes into my tank is treated with copper or CP. My 187g has multiple tangs and is borderline on being big enough for them. I would never try this without quarantining everything. I'm also trying to get my system SPS dominant. I recommend prophylactic treating for anyone who will do more than lightly stock their system or who doesn't want a natural reef look. And no, a tank full of big beautiful SPS isn't what you are going to see on the majority of reefs.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

I put a 4x4" block of Brightwell block in mine along with a chunk of cured rock, and some PVC pipe. For source water I pulled 10g from my main tank to fill the QT as well. Have had this setup and running like this for 5 months now, I run Cupramine in my 10g QT and have not had any ammonia or nitrite issues since day one.

I QT every new fish for at least 10 days before I move them to my secondary observation tank. When I upgraded from my 40 to the 75 every fish went through a two week QT in Cupramine as well because I had had some issues with Velvet and ICH in the 40g. All the corals and inverts went into a frag tank for 2 months before I moved them to the 75 while it was cycling. And I even dipped all the corals before I moved them to the 75 from the temp frag tank..

Call me paranoid, but I wanted to be absolutely sure I did everything possible to keep the parasites out of the new 75.

 

[Big G]

If time isn't an issue for me I like to test it by adding 1 to 2ppm of Dr Tims ammonia chloride and make sure it clears within 24 hours. That way I can be confident I won't have any ammonia issues and that my bottle of Biospira hadn't gone bad. Otherwise, just be ready to do regular water changes in case you do get an ammonia issue.

Using old tank water isn't a requirement. I just don't like putting fish in saltwater that is freshly mixed.

I also like to put some macro algae from my fuge in the QT when I set it up. It will bring some pods with it and help process ammonia along with providing shelter. I've had chaeto survive 14 days of copper treatment but be ready to pull it if it starts to die.

+1 ^^^ can take a few days for the good bacteria to develop to the point where it is able to consume 1-2 ppm of ammonia dose in 24 hours. Patience is the key here. Nothing good ever happens fast in this hobby. Dose and test daily until the ammonia clears in 24 hours.

 

[fishnchip]

That is a personal question that you'll have to balance the risks and benefits of each path. You will likely get 100 different answers

I personally let the new arrives settle in. Normally they come in salt water that is 1.016-18 and need to be put to 1.026 if going in a system with inverts and coral. So I take that time to ease them up in salinity via natural evaporation and get the newcomers eating and fat before starting any treatment. If treatment is required immediately due to signs of disease, then I start immediately.

I do treat all fish for most external and internal parasites. I've been burned by a healthy looking fish in the past.

Okay I’ll probably treat mine after it settles in. I’ll probably treat with CP

 

[fishnchip]

If time isn't an issue for me I like to test it by adding 1 to 2ppm of Dr Tims ammonia chloride and make sure it clears within 24 hours. That way I can be confident I won't have any ammonia issues and that my bottle of Biospira hadn't gone bad. Otherwise, just be ready to do regular water changes in case you do get an ammonia issue.

Using old tank water isn't a requirement. I just don't like putting fish in saltwater that is freshly mixed.

I also like to put some macro algae from my fuge in the QT when I set it up. It will bring some pods with it and help process ammonia along with providing shelter. I've had chaeto survive 14 days of copper treatment but be ready to pull it if it starts to die.

I’ll be sure to give it 2-3 min before adding anything to it

 

[fishnchip]

Where are you ordering the fish from?

If you do Live Aquaria and don't purchase a divers den specimin, then set the salinity in QT to 1.018. If you do divers den, then 1.026 is fine.

I’m going to try DD but if they don’t have what I’m looking for then I’ll just order from the normal site