Several fish flashing, should I be worried?

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Here is the method posted by Humblefish.


And another by Jay

Thank you!
It seems this might be the best COA for my situation.

The foxface did die last night unfortunately, but all other fish look healthy. I will be moving forward (unless suggested otherwise) with the hyposalinity treatment in the DT while moving all coral/inverts to the QT.
 
Thank you!
It seems this might be the best COA for my situation.

The foxface did die last night unfortunately, but all other fish look healthy. I will be moving forward (unless suggested otherwise) with the hyposalinity treatment in the DT while moving all coral/inverts to the QT.
Make sure of a good diverse diet also.
 
Make sure of a good diverse diet also.
What about food for the corals in the QT? It's new water so nitrates/phosphates 0.
And what will the CUC eat in the QT?
 
Last edited:
Younc
What about food for the corals in the QT? It's new water so nitrates/phosphates 0.
And what will the CUC eat in the QT?
You can also feed them.
 
Younc
You can also feed them.
Maybe stupid question, can I feed them the frozen shrimp I feed my fish?

What should I do with my refugium & skimmer?
The post says to remove algae, but that would mean removing all my rock anyways.. ?
 
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Maybe stupid question, can I feed them the frozen shrimp I feed my fish?

What should I do with my refugium & skimmer?
The post says to remove algae, but that would mean removing all my rock anyways.. ?
bump on the refugium/skimmer/algae Qs
 
Any macro should be removed
What about the algae on the rock work? It is minimal so will it be okay?
I don't have anywhere to put the macro, do I just throw it out?
 
What about the algae on the rock work? It is minimal so will it be okay?
I don't have anywhere to put the macro, do I just throw it out?
@Jay Hemdal I saw in your post that hypo isn't recommended in established DT because of the potential ammonia spikes. Hypo is kind of my only option, how should I deal with the ammonia spikes?
 
@Jay Hemdal I saw in your post that hypo isn't recommended in established DT because of the potential ammonia spikes. Hypo is kind of my only option, how should I deal with the ammonia spikes?
The more biomass in the tank when you go hypo, the more decomposition will take place, and the more the ammonia may rise. You should remove all macro algae and invertebrates prior. Micro algae like coralline will die off, but not cause much an ammonia issue.
 
Does the coral/rock/cuc in my QT have to stay there for 76 days before I can put it back in the DT? Or can I put it back after the 35 days of hypo?
 
My ATO is implemented with a buoy that sinks and opens a valve when the water level drops. Sometimes the water level in the return section of the sump gets raised for reasons I'm not sure of. Is this going to be a problem with keeping the salinity at 1.009?
 
Does the coral/rock/cuc in my QT have to stay there for 76 days before I can put it back in the DT? Or can I put it back after the 35 days of hypo?
Anything that goes through a full hypo treatment - the fish, rocks, the tank itself, can be considered non-infective.
 
My ATO is implemented with a buoy that sinks and opens a valve when the water level drops. Sometimes the water level in the return section of the sump gets raised for reasons I'm not sure of. Is this going to be a problem with keeping the salinity at 1.009?
If it is only filling due to evaporation, it will be fine, but it sounds like it is not operates correctly. Can you just turn it off and add water manually?
 
Anything that goes through a full hypo treatment - the fish, rocks, the tank itself, can be considered non-infective.
The DT is undergoing hypo. I am wondering if the rocks/coral/CUC in my QT are capable of sustaining ich.
 
The DT is undergoing hypo. I am wondering if the rocks/coral/CUC in my QT are capable of sustaining ich.
I believe keeping that tank at 81 degrees for 45 days will complete the fallow period necessary. If I'm wrong, I'm sure Jay will clarify.
 
Is it a bad idea to wait and see if I see white spots on the other fish? Or is my tank for sure contaminated with ich? I think the blue tang died which was the only fish with white spots.
 
Is it a bad idea to wait and see if I see white spots on the other fish? Or is my tank for sure contaminated with ich? I think the blue tang died which was the only fish with white spots.
I would operate under the guise of better safe than sorry.
 

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