Several fish flashing, should I be worried?

  • Thread starter Thread starter BSej
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Hey so the 55gal QT that I got from my friend was left outside exposed to the elements. I rinsed it out before using it, but there was still old sand and whatever else was stuck to the walls. Is this anything to fear after adding my corals to it? Local fish store said just rinse it and go.
 
Hey so the 55gal QT that I got from my friend was left outside exposed to the elements. I rinsed it out before using it, but there was still old sand and whatever else was stuck to the walls. Is this anything to fear after adding my corals to it? Local fish store said just rinse it and go.
You may get some die off which will elevate ammonia / nitrate. Just be wary of this and change water as needed.
 
What about mr sea cucumber? There is only minimal, old-tank sand in the QT that is likely dead. Should I scoop some out of DT and put it in QT for him to sift through?
 
What about mr sea cucumber? There is only minimal, old-tank sand in the QT that is likely dead. Should I scoop some out of DT and put it in QT for him to sift through?
Sea cumbers will quickly die during hyposalinity.
 
I moved all the corals/some rock to the QT yesterday, tight fit. The salinity, calcium and alkalinity match the DT, and there are no nitrates/phosphates in the QT but I threw some frozen oyster egg cubes in there. I'm using a gyre for flow.

Almost all of the corals look terrible.. should I be worried? I figured they don't need time to acclimate because the tank parameters are the same.
 
Any time you mess with them there will be concerns. Sounds like you're doing the best you can with it though. Hope the whole process goes smoothly for you.
 
To my understanding, hypo will kill copepods. I have a dragonet and it doesn't eat frozen. Suggestions?
 
Any time you mess with them there will be concerns. Sounds like you're doing the best you can with it though. Hope the whole process goes smoothly for you.
All 40+ of them died.
 
All the params seem fine, guess the tank is just too dirty? The water is murky. There are a couple corals barely hanging on, so I left them in there.

Still trying to catch the shrimp before I further the hypo. At ~25ppt right now and the fish seem pretty happy, showing less symptoms so I'm not in a rush and don't want to murder my shrimp lol.
 
Hi @Jay Hemdal, I noticed in your post on hypo that the water should be at 1.009 sg at 75F. My tank is at 77F and I'm on the way down to 1.009sg, should I lower the temp to 75F?
 
Hi @Jay Hemdal, I noticed in your post on hypo that the water should be at 1.009 sg at 75F. My tank is at 77F and I'm on the way down to 1.009sg, should I lower the temp to 75F?

The 75 F. is just listed because some hydrometers are calibrated to that temperature. If the water is warmer or cooler, those hydrometers will give slightly different readings. 78 degrees is a good temperature for the actual water. Remember that a specific gravity of 1.009 is used for treating ich. It can be stressful to some fish. A specific gravity of 1.012 is used for treating flukes and is less stressful.

Jay
 
Salinity at 20ppt now: whitetail tang died, hawkfish hiding/not eating and i presume he will die as well.
 
Salinity at 20ppt now: whitetail tang died, hawkfish hiding/not eating and i presume he will die as well.
Given the time frame in the posts, you should be at full hypo by now. Dropping salinity too slowly allows the disease to continue to grow. 20 ppt is too high to really treat any diseases. Now, raising the salinity after a hypo treatment must be done slowly, but dropping can and should be done much faster.
 
Started at 35, was sitting at 25ppt for a while, had to catch inverts / busy with school. I am dropping to 12 this week.
 
My firefish died after the last change.
I'm doing my last water change today, and I don't know if I should trust my hydrometer or my refractometer.
My refractometer is calibrated with RO and is reading 1.012. My hydrometer is reading 1.010-1.011. Any advice?

Update: Depending on how I set the hydrometer in the graduated cylinder I get a different reading. If I drop it in instead of letting it float up from the bottom it reads 1.012, so I will go with that since it matches the refractometer.
 
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While some fish flash, seems they are all doing this in some fashion and may be flukes. IF flukes, some signs will be loss of appetite, flashing, scratching and even sudden darting across tank as well as heavier breathing. Flukes are rarely seen with naked eye.
Ich moves and multiplies every 24 hrs which im not convinced is the case and behaviors do not suggest velvet, at least yet. Helpful will be pics and even video under white light intensity of the fish to better assess what you have going on
Is Prazipro safe for reef aquarium? Have softies and LPS as well as a couple Nems. Just wondering?
 
Is Prazipro safe for reef aquarium? Have softies and LPS as well as a couple Nems. Just wondering?
yes and to keep it safe and Dose at 85% of recommended as it reduces appetite and oxygen and you therefore want to run an air stone
 
My firefish died after the last change.
I'm doing my last water change today, and I don't know if I should trust my hydrometer or my refractometer.
My refractometer is calibrated with RO and is reading 1.012. My hydrometer is reading 1.010-1.011. Any advice?

Update: Depending on how I set the hydrometer in the graduated cylinder I get a different reading. If I drop it in instead of letting it float up from the bottom it reads 1.012, so I will go with that since it matches the refractometer.
Now my hydrometer consistently reads 1.007-1.008 but my refractometer shows 1.009. I don't know what to do.
 
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