Sfin's Dream.

[sfin52]

You had a great run!

If you don't want to go all out with QT'ing everything you can setup an observation tank. I have one running that I put new fish in so that I can make sure they're healthy and eating well before they go in my main tank.

Thats the plan from here on out. No way I can qt inverts and ccoral. Prob go with a transfer method. I can use small containers for that.

 

[danieyella]

I had a tang that would randomly pop up with spots. I added a blue streak cleaner wrasse and would feed food soaked in the vitamins from moonshiner method for a couple days whenever it popped up again and it was usually gone again until something randomly stressed it out once more. But usually heavy vitamins & it was gone within a few days

 

[sfin52]

I had a tang that would randomly pop up with spots. I added a blue streak cleaner wrasse and would feed food soaked in the vitamins from moonshiner method for a couple days whenever it popped up again and it was usually gone again until something randomly stressed it out once more. But usually heavy vitamins & it was gone within a few days

I appreciate all the help and support it means a lot. I can't say thank you enough.

 

[fishguy242]

Hey sorry to see, great to see the brain hive come together ,best wishes Stephan.

 

[sfin52]

Pulling

 

[sfin52]

Water at salinity 1.025 and in tank. Now to get it to temp. Rock in and some bio media. Pump hose came out of bucked 3 gallons on floor. Feet soaked socks and towels in washing machine. I'm ready for bed can't sleep.

 

[sfin52]

Downside to stock tank you can't see the fish for ice and what not.

 

[MrsBugmaster]

If you can’t set up a coral qt tank and qt everything wet then there is really no point in pulling the fish. I would put a uv sterilizer on the tank and go the ich management route. Unless it gets so bad fish start dying.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

Did you have any temperature swings lately? Just curious.

 

[sfin52]

Did you have any temperature swings lately? Just curious.

3.5 degree I forgot to plug heater back in after a water change.

 

[sfin52]

If you can’t set up a coral qt tank and qt everything wet then there is really no point in pulling the fish. I would put a uv sterilizer on the tank and go the ich management route. Unless it gets so bad fish start dying.

I agree but the kole now has ich and its spreading.

 

[dieselkeeper]

I'd pull them if it's spreading. Last summer I went thru the same. I used a 100 gal rubbermaid. Best advice I can give you is to stay on top of nitrates and phosphates in QT. I lost 3 fish the last couple of days due to really high phosphates. Got tired of doing water changes and adjusting copper. In the end it will worth it.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

If you can’t set up a coral qt tank and qt everything wet then there is really no point in pulling the fish. I would put a uv sterilizer on the tank and go the ich management route. Unless it gets so bad fish start dying.

Not really true. The amount of ick infestations that come in on coral are dismal compared to fish to fish transfer. It's not Really an all or nothing thing. I have an extremely regimented quarantine process for fish that I do not implement for coral. If I remove 95% likelihood, That is still worth doing.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

I agree but the kole now has ich and its spreading.

This is normal bud. They often need to get it, to get over it and get on with their life.

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

I'd pull them if it's spreading. Last summer I went thru the same. I used a 100 gal rubbermaid. Best advice I can give you is to stay on top of nitrates and phosphates in QT. I lost 3 fish the last couple of days due to really high phosphates. Got tired of doing water changes and adjusting copper. In the end it will worth it.

Do you have any idea where your phosphates were?

Phosphate toxicity levels are so high. It's almost unobtainable, Just like nitrate.

I would wager the phosphates did not kill them.

 

[Lowell Lemon]

The temperature swing can cause an increase in Tricodina which live on the fish. It is normally commensal to the fish and eats dead epithelial cells. It is a protozoa. With temperature increase and lower oxygen content it can become pathogenic and presents just like ich. I have used U.V. to stop the pathogenic cycle on large scale aquariums where I could not catch and prophylacticly treat the fish. Just a thought and good luck my friend!

 

[dieselkeeper]

Do you have any idea where your phosphates were?

Phosphate toxicity levels are so high. It's almost unobtainable, Just like nitrate.

I would wager the phosphates did not kill them.

I use Hanna low range phosphate tester. Highest it goes is 2.5. I previously had fish die that was at the LFS for over a month. I QT all my fish in a cycled tank, it is kept running with live rock, to observe for any scratching or flashing. I only add meds if they show signs of disease. Havent had to add meds in over 2 years. And it sits for months just running without any fish. I do a large water change before adding new fish. Fish was eating like pigs for a couple of weeks, then they hide in the shadows and die after not eat for a day or two. This happen 3 times with fish that I watched at LFS that was there for weeks with no signs of disease. They were eating like pigs when I brought them. I always ask to see fish eat before purchasing them. After the last time it happen, I did a 100 percent water change and phosphates was still over 2.5. So I'm thinking very high phosphates was leaching out of the rock and killing them. The fish I treated did acted the same way. Basing my previous post on my experiences.

 

[sfin52]

The temperature swing can cause an increase in Tricodina which live on the fish. It is normally commensal to the fish and eats dead epithelial cells. It is a protozoa. With temperature increase and lower oxygen content it can become pathogenic and presents just like ich. I have used U.V. to stop the pathogenic cycle on large scale aquariums where I could not catch and prophylacticly treat the fish. Just a thought and good luck my friend!

Unfortunately a big uv is not in the budget at the moment.

 

[sfin52]

I use Hanna low range phosphate tester. Highest it goes is 2.5. I previously had fish die that was at the LFS for over a month. I QT all my fish in a cycled tank, it is kept running with live rock, to observe for any scratching or flashing. I only add meds if they show signs of disease. Havent had to add meds in over 2 years. And it sits for months just running without any fish. I do a large water change before adding new fish. Fish was eating like pigs for a couple of weeks, then they hide in the shadows and die after not eat for a day or two. This happen 3 times with fish that I watched at LFS that was there for weeks with no signs of disease. They were eating like pigs when I brought them. I always ask to see fish eat before purchasing them. After the last time it happen, I did a 100 percent water change and phosphates was still over 2.5. So I'm thinking very high phosphates was leaching out of the rock and killing them. The fish I treated did acted the same way. Basing my previous post on my experiences.

Impossible unless your water has phosphates. 100 percent water change and test right after phosphates didn't go down.

 

[dieselkeeper]

I test new saltwater when opening a new bucket. I've had reef crystals have phosphates already. The live rock was not removed. Only source for phosphates.