Share your Non-Drilled Setups!

I should add I question the flow rate of those eShopps overflows. I have the 800, and my return pump iirc is rated for around 800, and its throttled back a decent amount to not overwhelm my overflow. I have a new 1200 in a box to upgrade when I get some time, because I want to push more flow through the sump.
 
The LifeReef are not the rated 1200gph either. I realized there are a lot of factors determining the flow but on one I get 400 and the other 600. Much lower.
 
So now I have another question - I got this sump with the setup. How do I even set it up?

In my sump, I’d like to keep a: UV sterilizer, my heater, my return pump and leave one space as a mini refugium. But the more I learn about sumps, the less I think it’d be possible to fit all of this in there. Any help is appreciated.
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the pf300 is a fantastic HOB overflow, no need to hire someone it’s a 5 minute instal.. simply plug overflow flex hose into your HOB overflow (you can glue these but I typically just friction fit and sometimes a few wraps of electrical tape to keep the connection together if I absolutely feel it’s needed) then hang it on your aquarium and plug the other end of flex hose into sump (I don’t use glue on sump connection either just push flex hose hard and twist to seat into bulk head) and your done ;)

there are no fail safes with this kind of set up but if you use the right equipment and set it up properly they are just about bulletproof just remember any kind of overflow can potentially fail. here are some of my recommendations (not promoting brands or dissing others methods, just my opinions).

* buy a quality overflow such as life Reef or eshopps

* buy overflow to match flow rate you desire for your tank

* do not use a overflow that depends on another piece of equipment to keep it going

* return pump needs to be able to meet or exceed recommend flow rate of overflow (critical) and a valved return line or DC return pump to control water flow is highly recommended.

* to prevent bubbles from forming air pocket in U tube and causing a failure water flow needs to be sufficient (critical).. watch the U tube, bubbles should should just blast through it, if they are “dancing“ in the arch of tube or at the outlet of tube your flow is insufficient (this is critical to prevent failure)

* to prevent snails or other things from potentially blocking U tube and causing a failure use something like gutter guard in the overflow box (this is critical to prevent failures). I use this, it can be cut to fit and works fantastic..
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* If you happen to be fighting algae issues make sure U tube doesn’t get clogged by algae that may grow inside it. This may mean pulling it every few weeks and cleaning if necessary (Purchasing a extra U tube simplifies this). You can cover the U tube to block light and help prevent algae growth if needed.

* probably not going to cause failures but clean foam prefilter every few weeks or as desired/needed (I keep extras to simplify this)

Just take a minute to visually inspect overflow from time to time and you will be fine. look for air pocket in U tube and any potential blockages.. following these guidelines I have never had a failure of any kind with HOB’s including one tank that ran for over 13 years.
I’ve been trying to figure out the best way to secure the u-tubes. Can you explain what you mean by “friction fit”?
 
I’ve been trying to figure out the best way to secure the u-tubes. Can you explain what you mean by “friction fit”?

The U tubes are not secured, just insert them into overflow as shown below, it’s ok for them to move around

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What I’m talking about friction fitting is the flex hose drain line..

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Out of an overabundance of caution I added a nano float switch from autotoppoff.com. Float switch sits in the DT and then my return pump is plugged into this which plugs into my power strip. If I went on vacation or even am at work all day and siphon ever broke, the float switch cuts power on the return if the level rises. Took about five minutes to set up.

Besides testing it regularly to make sure it works it has never been tripped.
 
Out of an overabundance of caution I added a nano float switch from autotoppoff.com. Float switch sits in the DT and then my return pump is plugged into this which plugs into my power strip. If I went on vacation or even am at work all day and siphon ever broke, the float switch cuts power on the return if the level rises. Took about five minutes to set up.

Besides testing it regularly to make sure it works it has never been tripped.


Excellent advice and something I forgot to add to the discussion. I plan on purchasing something similar as soon as my budget allows ;). If syphon fails sensor will detect rising water level in tank and shut down return pump.

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I think a sumpless system can be done if you don't have a lot of equipment.

My ato, heater, and protein skimmer are just hung off to the right side

aa3bd0f3df3b65a9f2c6c0a9f6467dd3.png
 
Tunze makes complete internal filters and skimmers with automatic water top off systems. Works great.
 
Thank you! It’s my first stand attempt and I’m proud that it didn’t come out like homer simpson’s spice rack.
I literally lol’d at this! Idk why but my whole family has a thing for barnyard doors. Epic build!


I think a sumpless system can be done if you don't have a lot of equipment.

My ato, heater, and protein skimmer are just hung off to the right side

aa3bd0f3df3b65a9f2c6c0a9f6467dd3.png
You don’t even notice all of the equipment there. This is a very nice tank!
 
Currently a eshopps pf300, have used Life Reef on other tanks with excellent results.

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Sorry for bringing this old post up, I am wanting to get a PF300 for my stock tank, and I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind measuring the gap between the inner and the outer box? And how tall is the inner box?
 

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