Shep's 40 Gallon LPS Reef

So rude!!!! :p Lol yea, I have PS but am still getting the hang of it! Any good tips? Maybe I'll edit and resubmit my POTM

Well you have to have a good foundation photo and you do that's why I mentioned it. All I did with your photo was auto tone, auto contrast, and then I added Filter> Sharpen>Unsharp Mask and set the value to look good! :)
 
[HASHTAG]#reefsquad[/HASHTAG] @twilliard I need an ID on this
 
In the meantime here are my other new additions




 
Orange thingies?
Kinda looks like Planeria.

flatworms.jpg
 
I would say that's a good match, quick google search turned up nothing (the few links I found were for freshwater shrimp tanks) Are they good, bad or insignificant?
 
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I agree. Planaria flatworms. They can reproduce quickly. I'm not positive what effects they can have on the tank besides being an eyesore. You can try siphoning them out during water changes and look into a wrasse to eat them. I have seen good success with melanarus wrasses taking care of them. The tank is looking great man!
 
Thanks! From this experience I don't think I will ever not use T5s or a sump
 
That is red planaria
Heavy hits of peroxide and a fine micron sock will help knock those guys out.
The problem with these guys is if they were to die off in mass numbers are toxic to the tank.
The population can become so overwhelmed that they block light to corals.
 
Good to know, will they cause problems?
 
They will grow in # really quick if they have no predator in the tank.
All kind of wrasses will feast on them, especially Melunarus, Yellow Corris, all leopard wrasses, four, six, eight line wrasses (the six is the bully of all) Yellow tail damsels and the marbled damsels will love them too but not for breakfast, pancake flatworm is preferred for breakfast ;)
Ruby red dragnet will shred them too.
Planaria loves lots of light so dimming the light to a level that wrasses are still out will take care of them fast.
They will overpower corals to a effect that they will take the light away from corals.
Flatworm exit will take care of them too but you have to filter heavy over carbon as with in seconds after they die toxins will be released.
 
Well I am am my wits end trying to deal with my algae problem, I have three different kinds of nuisance algae and they are just growing out of control. At this rate I might just save the corals and break the tank down to start over again. :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
Well I am am my wits end trying to deal with my algae problem, I have three different kinds of nuisance algae and they are just growing out of control. At this rate I might just save the corals and break the tank down to start over again. :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
I hate it for you man. Algae is very annoying.
 
You just don't have enough Export. If you have not seen this yet...


Nutrient Export

What do all algae (and cyano too) need to survive? Nutrients. What are nutrients? Ammonia/ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and urea are the major ones. Which ones cause most of the algae in your tank? These same ones. Why can't you just remove these nutrients and eliminate all the algae in your tank? Because these nutrients are the result of the animals you keep.

So how do your animals "make" these nutrients? Well a large part the nutrients comes from pee (urea). Pee is very high in urea and ammonia, and these are a favorite food of algae and some bacteria. This is why your glass will always need cleaning; because the pee hits the glass before anything else, and algae on the glass consume the ammonia and urea immediately (using photosynthesis) and grow more. In the ocean and lakes, phytoplankton consume the ammonia and urea in open water, and seaweed consume it in shallow areas, but in a tank you don't have enough space or water volume for this, and, your other filters or animals often remove or kill the phytoplankton or seaweed anyway. So, the nutrients stay in your tank.

Then, the ammonia/ammonium hits your rocks, and the periphyton on the rocks consumes more ammonia and urea. Periphyton is both algae and animals, and is the reason your rocks change color after a few weeks from when they were new. Then the ammonia goes inside the rock, or hits your sand, and bacteria there convert it into nitrite and nitrate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

Also let's not forget phosphate, which comes from solid organic food particles. When these particles are eaten by microbes and clean up crews, the organic phosphorus in them is converted into phosphate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

So whenever you have algae or cyano "problems", you simply have not exported enough nutrients out of your tank compared to how much you have been feeding (note: live rock can absorb phosphate for up to a year, making it seem like there was never a problem. Then after a year, there is a problem).

So just increase your nutrient exports. You could also reduce feeding, and this has the same effect, but it's certainly not fun when you want to feed your animals :)
 
You just don't have enough Export. If you have not seen this yet...


Nutrient Export

What do all algae (and cyano too) need to survive? Nutrients. What are nutrients? Ammonia/ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and urea are the major ones. Which ones cause most of the algae in your tank? These same ones. Why can't you just remove these nutrients and eliminate all the algae in your tank? Because these nutrients are the result of the animals you keep.

So how do your animals "make" these nutrients? Well a large part the nutrients comes from pee (urea). Pee is very high in urea and ammonia, and these are a favorite food of algae and some bacteria. This is why your glass will always need cleaning; because the pee hits the glass before anything else, and algae on the glass consume the ammonia and urea immediately (using photosynthesis) and grow more. In the ocean and lakes, phytoplankton consume the ammonia and urea in open water, and seaweed consume it in shallow areas, but in a tank you don't have enough space or water volume for this, and, your other filters or animals often remove or kill the phytoplankton or seaweed anyway. So, the nutrients stay in your tank.

Then, the ammonia/ammonium hits your rocks, and the periphyton on the rocks consumes more ammonia and urea. Periphyton is both algae and animals, and is the reason your rocks change color after a few weeks from when they were new. Then the ammonia goes inside the rock, or hits your sand, and bacteria there convert it into nitrite and nitrate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

Also let's not forget phosphate, which comes from solid organic food particles. When these particles are eaten by microbes and clean up crews, the organic phosphorus in them is converted into phosphate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

So whenever you have algae or cyano "problems", you simply have not exported enough nutrients out of your tank compared to how much you have been feeding (note: live rock can absorb phosphate for up to a year, making it seem like there was never a problem. Then after a year, there is a problem).

So just increase your nutrient exports. You could also reduce feeding, and this has the same effect, but it's certainly not fun when you want to feed your animals :)
I only have three fish and only feed twice a week, so I know I am not putting in too much nutrients. I also have a turf scrubber that I got from you and I can't even get that to grow algae :(
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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