Should I be worried?

I managed to catch the two clowns.

The other two are much harder and are very adept at hiding. I took some rock out, moved others, didn't even find them let alone catch them.

Any suggestions?

Take all the rock out and most of the water. You can always put it back in there, no problem. It's going to be the least headache and frustration.
 
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Well, I got one in. The other three are all hiding. I'm going to have to practically tear the tank down. :-(
I got a acrylic fish trap for mine. I had the same issue. It was TOTaLLY WORTH THE Money!! I put seaweed in the back of it and caught them in 30 seconds.
 
Now that's what I'm talking about. :). Where'd you get yours?
I got mine on Amazon. I think it was around $60. Simple acrylic box with closing door. I held the door up with fishing line. They literally were in it within 30 seconds after weeks of trying to catch them. I JUST finished my 8 weeks fallow from an ick outbreak. Got 2 new clowns last night. The 4 in QT will be back in next week.
 
I got mine on Amazon. I think it was around $60. Simple acrylic box with closing door. I held the door up with fishing line. They literally were in it within 30 seconds after weeks of trying to catch them. I JUST finished my 8 weeks fallow from an ick outbreak. Got 2 new clowns last night. The 4 in QT will be back in next week.
Thx for the info! Amazon works for me, especially with two day delivery. :-)
 
Here is the one I got.

Seriously had 2 friends over and 4 of us with nets for 3 hours one night. I was so scared I was going to have to tear down my reef.

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I just order it and some pine. Same one. I considered the smaller one cuz I have a 55gal, but I figure it doesn't have to sit flat in the substrate. Just need to get it in with food. I might have to use a long line, because these last two fish hide whenever anyone approaches!
 
So the clowns have been in QT since Saturday. My little mocha clown looks a bit worse. My big davinci looks about the same. Thankfully neither is bothering my christmas wrasse who was already in there. In my DT my gramma and fairy wrasse are no different.

I get the trap tonight to try to catch the fairy and gramma.

How long does it take for velvet to kill a fish? I assume I'd know if they were getting better by the reduction of white spots/dust?

I'm also wondering if it's ich instead of velvet. I know my pics aren't great, I'll try taking some with my DSLR and solicit more opinions.

Again, thx for all the help everyone.
 
Velvet and ick can both be tricky. Some fish can hold out against velvet while succumbing to ick quickly. It all depends on the immune system of the individual fish, the strains of the parasites, and the conditions they are in. If you haven't started raising the copper on the QT yet, then i would at least get it started. If you wait too long, it could be too late for the fish you've already caught.
 
Velvet and ick can both be tricky. Some fish can hold out against velvet while succumbing to ick quickly. It all depends on the immune system of the individual fish, the strains of the parasites, and the conditions they are in. If you haven't started raising the copper on the QT yet, then i would at least get it started. If you wait too long, it could be too late for the fish you've already caught.

Thx, the copper was already at .5 before I put them in, because I had just received a new fish.

I'm a little overwhelmed with some of the protocols I've been reading beyond copper. :-/
 
I know my pics aren't great, I'll try taking some with my DSLR and solicit more opinions.
With this, we can advise you a little better at this point.
I'm a little overwhelmed with some of the protocols I've been reading beyond copper. :-/
What are your concerns? I'll do my best to help you out there and explain anything I can.
 
With this, we can advise you a little better at this point.

What are your concerns? I'll do my best to help you out there and explain anything I can.

Well, biggest issue is that I've never done some of the stuff before, and in some cases, I don't have the equipment.

Some examples:
formalin: apparently you can get this from a chemist?? and is carcinogenic!? Might be great to cure velvet, but I'm not sure I want anything to do with it. Nor do I know any chemists.
UV/Ozone - I don't have a UV light, or any way to inject oxygen aside from powerheads disturbing the surface.
Freshwater dip - This sounds the easiest (assuming RODI?), but it's my understanding this will only provide temporary relief, and not help the problem.

I'm not also not sure I have enough equipment at this point in my career to properly give a chemical bath. Sounds like I need more powerheads, heaters, and of course something to put them in. maybe I'm making a bigger deal out of it than it is. I could probably scrounge something up. I just feel like I'm in this state of not knowing if I'm doing it right, and if the fish die, I'll certainly not find out.

To be fair, that's always going to be true. So I feel like I'm in this state of paralysis.

Perhaps when I get pics tonight, things will be clearer.

Sorry for the rant.
 
formalin: apparently you can get this from a chemist?? and is carcinogenic!? Might be great to cure velvet, but I'm not sure I want anything to do with it. Nor do I know any chemists.
Formalin can be found in some of the commonly sold meds for fish like Quick Cure. It is a carcinogen though, so you want to take care while handling it. It can also be harsh on fish, but there are alternatives to this when it comes to chemical baths depending on the disease you are treating for. Acriflavin is one and can be found in Ruby Reef Rally as an example.
UV/Ozone - I don't have a UV light, or any way to inject oxygen aside from powerheads disturbing the surface.
I wouldn't suggest a UV for QT, but might be useful in an Ick management situation. So you don't need to worry about that one or Ozone. Adding oxygen is as easy as what you already know.... pointing a powerhead at the water's surface.
Freshwater dip - This sounds the easiest (assuming RODI?), but it's my understanding this will only provide temporary relief, and not help the problem.
The freshwater dip is one of the most important tools we have at our disposal. It's a great diagnostic, it can buy you time to get treatment set up and ready for the fish, and even is needed as a precursor to treatment -not just to buy time. It's easy, free and should be something you get very used to doing if you plan to add more fish to your tank.
I'm not also not sure I have enough equipment at this point in my career to properly give a chemical bath. Sounds like I need more powerheads, heaters, and of course something to put them in. maybe I'm making a bigger deal out of it than it is. I could probably scrounge something up. I just feel like I'm in this state of not knowing if I'm doing it right, and if the fish die, I'll certainly not find out.

Powerheads and heaters are pretty easy to come by and dont' need to be expensive for QT purposes. Used powerheads can be picked up on the cheap and stored for when/if you need them. I don't see a reason for you to need more than two max and that's if you want to have an extra on hand... or have one for each TTM tank. That's up to you. I dont see a reason to have more than two heaters as well.... again up to you.

It can be very overwhelming and your mind can run away with itself trying to get everything lined up. Any time you need clarification or just somebody to simplify points like this for you, post up. We got your back.
 
Formalin can be found in some of the commonly sold meds for fish like Quick Cure. It is a carcinogen though, so you want to take care while handling it. It can also be harsh on fish, but there are alternatives to this when it comes to chemical baths depending on the disease you are treating for. Acriflavin is one and can be found in Ruby Reef Rally as an example.

I wouldn't suggest a UV for QT, but might be useful in an Ick management situation. So you don't need to worry about that one or Ozone. Adding oxygen is as easy as what you already know.... pointing a powerhead at the water's surface.

The freshwater dip is one of the most important tools we have at our disposal. It's a great diagnostic, it can buy you time to get treatment set up and ready for the fish, and even is needed as a precursor to treatment -not just to buy time. It's easy, free and should be something you get very used to doing if you plan to add more fish to your tank.


Powerheads and heaters are pretty easy to come by and dont' need to be expensive for QT purposes. Used powerheads can be picked up on the cheap and stored for when/if you need them. I don't see a reason for you to need more than two max and that's if you want to have an extra on hand... or have one for each TTM tank. That's up to you. I dont see a reason to have more than two heaters as well.... again up to you.

It can be very overwhelming and your mind can run away with itself trying to get everything lined up. Any time you need clarification or just somebody to simplify points like this for you, post up. We got your back.


Thanks so much!

I do already have a powerhead in there disturbing the surface a fair amount. I have a 17g QT setup with a fluval canister and koralia 425, and 75W cobalt heater. I could add another smaller koralia, I think it's a 250. I'm using a seachem ammonia alert to monitor that. It's already at .5 for copper. Though I need to check that again, just in case.

What about temperature range or salinity? I currently have my heater at 76, and salinity is 1.026.

On the freshwater bath, do I literally just put them in a bucket of heated RODI for 5 mins?
 
What about temperature range or salinity? I currently have my heater at 76, and salinity is 1.026.
That's fine. No reason to change it unless you need to.
On the freshwater bath, do I literally just put them in a bucket of heated RODI for 5 mins?

If you need to do a freshwater dip as part of the velvet protocol, then you would temp match the RODI water and add an airstone. Put the fish in there for 5 minutes (i usually set a timer on my phone) then put them back in the QT. The freshwater dip can rule out/confirm flukes and help flush out any build up in the gills of mucus from ick or velvet in there which will help them breathe a little easier for the time being. If they are already in copper in the QT, then you probably don't need to do the freshwater dip, unless they are still breathing really heavy and doing poorly.
 
Here are some pics. I didn't have a ton of time and the fish (as usual) weren't cooperating...

They don't seem as dusty as they did in the DT. I wonder if the lighting has anything to do with it? Best case scenario, maybe they're getting better.

IMG_7798.JPG


IMG_7799.JPG


IMG_7789.JPG
 
The lighting will have a lot to do with what you can see. I promise they arn't getting better on their own. It's all a part of the life cycle of the parasite. It feeds off the fish for a time, drops off to create a cyst on a hard surface -in which it multiplies exponentially- then it breaks free and attaches to the fish again. Treatment is the only option here. Sorry hun :(
 

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