Skinning a metal stand

Thomthom329 · Aug 17, 2015

Hi all,

Looking for feedback on how to skin a metal stand.

I recently purchased a 60"x24"x18" Miracles tank (3 side starfire glass) as well as a powder coated metal stand. It's going to be another 6 weeks or so before it arrives but I'm starting to plan out the skin the for the stand in the meantime.

I'd like to build a frame around the stand so that it appears to be an all wood stand. I was going to use self tapping screws to attach the wood to the stand, but I'm concerned about rust. A little research shows many are simply using magnets, but I'm not sure how interested I am in that approach. I suppose it would be fine, but I was thinking more along the lines of a permanent skin with doors (2 front, 2 on either side).

For those that have skinned their metal stands, what did you end up doing? Pics would be great. A DIY string would be even better!

Thanks in advance.

bobman · Aug 17, 2015

I have not done this so take my advise for what it is but if it were me I would not use self tapping screws instead I would drill and tap the holes then paint the holes then you can add sealant to the mating surfaces of the stand and the wood to keep the salt water from ever being able to reach any bare metal.

Thomthom329 · Aug 17, 2015

Thanks for the advice, bobman. What kind of sealant should one use, and would they just smear a little (enough) in and around the tapped hole(s) before attaching the wood skin?

Dapperjman · Aug 17, 2015

I'm doing the same thing right now! Almost the same dimensions too. I ordered some sealed magnets the other day and they are super strong, so I believe I'm going that route.

Thomthom329 · Aug 17, 2015

Mind sharing which magnets you purchased? While I'd rather not go the magnet route, it might be the most practical solution for me to ensure the longevity of the stand.

Dapperjman · Aug 17, 2015

I probably could have went smaller on these, but I will just use fewer of them if they are too strong.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/N52-Neodymi...oated-10-PC-/311009584275?hash=item48699da493

Thomthom329 · Aug 17, 2015

Thanks, Dapper!

bobman · Aug 17, 2015

For sealants use liquid nail and some regular caulk.

davocean · Aug 18, 2015

Really if you just build a 3 sided wrap around face frame it should stand just fine on it's own.
That is basically how I build most of my stands, a frame, and then I wrap that w/ a 3 sided face frame built out of 1x.
I can slide it right in place, and remove just as easy if I need to really get in there.

Thomthom329 · Aug 18, 2015

Thanks, davocean. I considered that option, but I'm not keen on the idea of sliding it in and out every time I need to get into the sump. That would probably be hard on my hardwood floors as well. I appreciate the suggestion, though. Hope to hear from more reefers out there that have tackled this situation.

davocean · Aug 18, 2015

Thomthom329 said:
Thanks, davocean. I considered that option, but I'm not keen on the idea of sliding it in and out every time I need to get into the sump. That would probably be hard on my hardwood floors as well. I appreciate the suggestion, though. Hope to hear from more reefers out there that have tackled this situation.

You do not have to slide anything, put doors on it!
I very rarely if ever pull mine out, it's just an option.

davocean · Aug 18, 2015

This is how mine is done, except my stand is wood instead of metal, but it just wraps around and is freestanding, plenty solid.

Thomthom329 · Aug 18, 2015

Looks good! Thanks for the tip!

davocean · Aug 18, 2015

Any solid 1x or even a good 3/4 ply will have enough weight to sit in place.
I just oversized mine a 1/4" so I have an 1/8" gap on each side so I can slide it past the frame.
I would begin w/ this, and if you for some reason feel the need to add magnets or velcro or whatever to secure it even more you can go down that road at your choice and leisure.
On mine even w/ 3 glass doors open it still sits plenty solid, I feel no need for additional measures.