- Joined
- Mar 23, 2017
- Messages
- 66
- Reaction score
- 14
- Location
- Palmdale Ca
- What state or country do you live in
- California
Indeed a really nice piece of gadget to toy with...
Not really bad to have but, not too good to have.
My point is that, there’s gonna be a really insignificant change in water chemistry with the amount of water change it’s going to perform (AWC function).
Why do I say this?
Well, they most likely designed this for a system that utilizes a sump for one. For it to work as it was designed for, it has to empty one of the chambers in a sump where it can only do so much. We all know for a fact that multi-chambered sumps are designed “fill and drain”, meaning that excess water drained from the main/display tank fills up the fist chamber of the sump, drains to a second chamber to fill it up and so it goes on until water reaches the last chamber where the rerun pump is. A break on the cycle will stop the circulating volume of water from sump chamber to chamber or sump to main/display.
To cut the story short, you’d have to have a sump that is over filled with 20-50% (depends on how much you need the AWC function to displace) more volume than it’s original capacity. Given that you have a much bigger water volume in your sump than what you have in your main/display tank then that’s the time and I would say the only time that a “water change” is going to be a significant one.
Now, if one has to use this AWC function on a non-sump display tank, it’s going to simulate a low-tide phenomena (you know how low-tide smell like when you’re out by the coast, imagine that smell confined in a room) for those tanks that has no more than 10% water level above their rock-scape (only if you’re you’re going to do at least 50% of that 10% at a time, that might work but still not that significant to change the water chemistry on that tank. It might though, but all depends on what dimensions your tank has. Well, tank dimensions for the AWC function to do a significant change in water chemistry would look more like a frag tank to me for sure.
Anyway, why do I say it won’t make any difference on the chemistry on a conventional tank, sump design?
Here’s why...
Take Phosphate (PO4) for example, a reading of .10ppm to be reduced to .05ppm, one has to do a 50% water change.
Now, imagine that 50% of the water volume in your system that you’ll have to change is in your sump, how would that look?
No worries with Ca, Alk and Mg since they’re being dosed, other minor elements however can be too but most likely is provided and replenished by a significant water change.
So, as a personal conclusion: All I need is an ATO, an Automatic Dosing Machine and a good filtration system!
Haven’t done “water change” for two and a half months at present. Well, that’s due to a 2-month long vacation and all that comes with it. Yet, all my corals and all the inhabitants are alive and well! Again, thanks to ATO, ADM and good filtration system[emoji2][emoji106]
Not really bad to have but, not too good to have.
My point is that, there’s gonna be a really insignificant change in water chemistry with the amount of water change it’s going to perform (AWC function).
Why do I say this?
Well, they most likely designed this for a system that utilizes a sump for one. For it to work as it was designed for, it has to empty one of the chambers in a sump where it can only do so much. We all know for a fact that multi-chambered sumps are designed “fill and drain”, meaning that excess water drained from the main/display tank fills up the fist chamber of the sump, drains to a second chamber to fill it up and so it goes on until water reaches the last chamber where the rerun pump is. A break on the cycle will stop the circulating volume of water from sump chamber to chamber or sump to main/display.
To cut the story short, you’d have to have a sump that is over filled with 20-50% (depends on how much you need the AWC function to displace) more volume than it’s original capacity. Given that you have a much bigger water volume in your sump than what you have in your main/display tank then that’s the time and I would say the only time that a “water change” is going to be a significant one.
Now, if one has to use this AWC function on a non-sump display tank, it’s going to simulate a low-tide phenomena (you know how low-tide smell like when you’re out by the coast, imagine that smell confined in a room) for those tanks that has no more than 10% water level above their rock-scape (only if you’re you’re going to do at least 50% of that 10% at a time, that might work but still not that significant to change the water chemistry on that tank. It might though, but all depends on what dimensions your tank has. Well, tank dimensions for the AWC function to do a significant change in water chemistry would look more like a frag tank to me for sure.
Anyway, why do I say it won’t make any difference on the chemistry on a conventional tank, sump design?
Here’s why...
Take Phosphate (PO4) for example, a reading of .10ppm to be reduced to .05ppm, one has to do a 50% water change.
Now, imagine that 50% of the water volume in your system that you’ll have to change is in your sump, how would that look?
No worries with Ca, Alk and Mg since they’re being dosed, other minor elements however can be too but most likely is provided and replenished by a significant water change.
So, as a personal conclusion: All I need is an ATO, an Automatic Dosing Machine and a good filtration system!
Haven’t done “water change” for two and a half months at present. Well, that’s due to a 2-month long vacation and all that comes with it. Yet, all my corals and all the inhabitants are alive and well! Again, thanks to ATO, ADM and good filtration system[emoji2][emoji106]

