I do weekly tests on tank. For the entire time, testing with API, my pH has read 8. I have been fine with this but the last two weeks it has been lower, just above 7.8 it seems. I read this article on low pH http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/#:~:text=A common cause of low,of acid to the tank.
I am in the process of testing if it is an issue with high CO2 in the tank by letting a cup of water sit outside with an air stone.
Some info on my tank. 120 gallon with a 55 gallon DIY sump located in my basement fish room. Fuge is 20 gallons with chaeto growing very well. The DT has a glass lid and the water at the top of the DT is constantly moving. The water in the sump is stagnant. Other tests are Alk 7.8, calcium 500 and mag 1520 all tested with Red Sea test kits. Salinity is 35ppt. temp is 78F. NO3 is 2ppm and PO4 is .03 tested with Salifert kits. The cal and mag has been stable for months but the alk was fluctuating for a while when I was dosing with a two part system. I decided a couple weeks ago to stop dosing to see if I can get the alk to stabilize. It did at 7.8, has been like that for two weeks (I've been testing it daily). Now my understanding is that with a high calcium, you should have a low alk,but is that too low? And after reading the article, I learned that a lower alk like I have can correlate to a lower pH. I am not really comfortable with this drop. I also learned that a lower pH can make it difficult for most aquarium animals to use the calcium in the water. Is this why I constantly have a high calcium and magnesium with no drop in those levels?
My corals seem to grow ok. My Monti grows and the soft corals like Kenya tree and xenia are out of control. The hammer seems to do well. The birdsnest grows but I don't think very well. I recently added a clam a few weeks ago that just died. Fish seem happy and the crabs and shrimps don't seem to have a problem molting. Snails do well.
Some other info. I use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals salt. RODI water, filters recently changed. The skimmer is constantly running. The Fuge light is on the same schedule as my tank. I have tested at night and during the day and could not find a pH swing between night and day. I also test at different times during the day and get the same results.
So here are my questions. I don't want to panic and start chasing a number but I do want my pH to be stable at 8.2 or so. If this aeration test shows a high CO2, would adding a small pump to the fuge to get the water moving there solve my issue? If that is not the issue, should I change my fuge light to come on opposite the DT? I would like to try one solution at a time to figure this out and not cause more issues than the one I am trying to solve. I have an ATO but I do not use any limewater additives like kalkwater. I do have a bag of carbon that I try to change out every three weeks, although I must admit, I rarely succeed and this one was about three weeks over due. I just changed it today.
I am in the process of testing if it is an issue with high CO2 in the tank by letting a cup of water sit outside with an air stone.
Some info on my tank. 120 gallon with a 55 gallon DIY sump located in my basement fish room. Fuge is 20 gallons with chaeto growing very well. The DT has a glass lid and the water at the top of the DT is constantly moving. The water in the sump is stagnant. Other tests are Alk 7.8, calcium 500 and mag 1520 all tested with Red Sea test kits. Salinity is 35ppt. temp is 78F. NO3 is 2ppm and PO4 is .03 tested with Salifert kits. The cal and mag has been stable for months but the alk was fluctuating for a while when I was dosing with a two part system. I decided a couple weeks ago to stop dosing to see if I can get the alk to stabilize. It did at 7.8, has been like that for two weeks (I've been testing it daily). Now my understanding is that with a high calcium, you should have a low alk,but is that too low? And after reading the article, I learned that a lower alk like I have can correlate to a lower pH. I am not really comfortable with this drop. I also learned that a lower pH can make it difficult for most aquarium animals to use the calcium in the water. Is this why I constantly have a high calcium and magnesium with no drop in those levels?
My corals seem to grow ok. My Monti grows and the soft corals like Kenya tree and xenia are out of control. The hammer seems to do well. The birdsnest grows but I don't think very well. I recently added a clam a few weeks ago that just died. Fish seem happy and the crabs and shrimps don't seem to have a problem molting. Snails do well.
Some other info. I use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals salt. RODI water, filters recently changed. The skimmer is constantly running. The Fuge light is on the same schedule as my tank. I have tested at night and during the day and could not find a pH swing between night and day. I also test at different times during the day and get the same results.
So here are my questions. I don't want to panic and start chasing a number but I do want my pH to be stable at 8.2 or so. If this aeration test shows a high CO2, would adding a small pump to the fuge to get the water moving there solve my issue? If that is not the issue, should I change my fuge light to come on opposite the DT? I would like to try one solution at a time to figure this out and not cause more issues than the one I am trying to solve. I have an ATO but I do not use any limewater additives like kalkwater. I do have a bag of carbon that I try to change out every three weeks, although I must admit, I rarely succeed and this one was about three weeks over due. I just changed it today.




