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No I do not have any type of controller, temperature is monitored with a digital thermometer and pH is done with a test kit twic a day on my testing days. It renages from 7.8-8.0. I know for a fact that aerating water with house water lowers the pH and outside air raises it, but I was under the impression that I shouldn't have to worry about pH where it is.Are you using an Apex or Archon controller? The one thing they are good for is graphing temp and ph. Check sample in the same room with an air stone if ph rises then more circulation is need in the tank. The only reason to check all parameters twice a day for just a few days is to make sure you are not overlooking the simple. With my setup I never used heaters or chiller and the temp never varied more than 2 degrees in a day. I moved did not bother checking the temp all the time but was checking off and on, until I had a couple frags lose tissue. Was having as much as 15 degree temp drop. First time ever had to use heaters, still not sure why the sudden drop.the house did not have that kind of drop.
I'm inclined to say it's not white band. I actually haven't had any drastic changes in parameters. All changes to the system were made over weeks/months. I've seen white band in person and my professor is actually a leading expert in coral diseases and he did his dissertation on white/black band disease and we still don't even know the bacterium responsible. I just think that's a pretty large leap. But hey I could be wrong.The bacteria that causes white band is a possibility, gradual changes in parameters don't normally cause big problems unless they are way off but large swings do and they can cause corals and fish to get bacterial infections or parasites that when healthy would not be a problem.
I believe that an alkalinity of 7 is okay as well. Seeing as the ocean runs a alkalinity around there it's tough to argue with Mother Nature. I also am struggling to find pests so I'm not sure about that either. I actually did a 30% water change as that is the biggest one I could perform with my equipment.I personally don't believe the all of 7 is the culprit, I have seen RTN due to high alk over 8.5 DKh in Biopellet/Zoevit driven systems. I have run my tanks @ 6.5-7DKH for years with great results in color and growth.
Looking at the dark color of your corals I would think something else is at play and I do not not think it looks like AEFW. As others have said trim the affected corals, do several large water changes.
It could be a lighting adjustment issue are only the corals that turned brown after the light change effected? do you have any idea of a before and after PAR reading at the corals.
Take a small and have it triton tested (take sample before you do the water changes) to eliminate a chemical issue.
Yes I could only manage 45 gallons due to the size of my mixing container but hey it was still 30%very good to hear water changes are your friend![]()

I run carbon 24/7 passively, but I just cleaned out my phosban reactor for this incident and began running it actively.if something else happens make sure to run a lot of carbon as well that should help remove whatever foreign toxin is in the tank

