SOS! TISSUE NECROSIS!

I've used salifert flat worm exit on aefw as a dip with good success, cut a piece off and dip see if any will fall off. I'd use a white bucket or container to look for them. I sometimes get rtn if my temp swings 3 degrees on the first image.
 
Ok if you keep it at 7 what is it right before the dosing starts ?
I have no idea. I've never tested. My doser doses 24 times a day for each calcium and alkalinity, spaced half an hour apart. I'm assuming it remains pretty stable. I can try to catch it before one of the doses today if that would help.
 
I've used salifert flat worm exit on aefw as a dip with good success, cut a piece off and dip see if any will fall off. I'd use a white bucket or container to look for them. I sometimes get rtn if my temp swings 3 degrees on the first image.
My temp is pretty stable to 1 or 2 degrees as far as I know. And it seems like I'm getting mixed suggestions on whether or not it is actually pests or alkalinity. Or even something else?
 
This still seems like Alk too low for too long. May have something to do with the new program and bacteria, but your coral are just finally crashing from a lack of what they need. Raise your Alk to 7.4 then over a couple weeks increase dosing to aim for around 7.8 to 8 to see if they dying stops. Every tank has a sweet spot where whatever coral your growing thrive, Alk of 7 is killing yours.
 
Can you elaborate on your bacteria dosing? What exactly are you dosing and what amounts (for last several months)?
Its a product line known as Aquaforest. Its a probiotic ULNS bacteria driven system similar to zeovit or prodibio. Ive been using the probiotic bacteria and carbon source for two months and it has successfully lowered my nitrates to 1ppm, which were previously higher due to a faulty test kit in my opinion.

This still seems like Alk too low for too long. May have something to do with the new program and bacteria, but your coral are just finally crashing from a lack of what they need. Raise your Alk to 7.4 then over a couple weeks increase dosing to aim for around 7.8 to 8 to see if they dying stops. Every tank has a sweet spot where whatever coral your growing thrive, Alk of 7 is killing yours.
I was running at 7 dkh at the recommendation of the Aquaforest program. The recommendation is the same for zeovit which is what I compare to. I was under the impression that under ULNS the coral can get burnt tips if the alk is too high.
 
this is not ALK related Brandon

this is bacteria related you have a bad bacteria strain and your feeding it with the carbon dosing.

you have white band disease. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_band_disease
Are you saying that I got a bad batch of bacteria from aquaforest? I wouldn't know how else it would've made it into my system. It is just a strong assumption to say that my tank has white band disease.

I'm familiar with aqua forest. Are you using their salt too? If not, which salt?
Yes I am using their probiotic salt.
 
What ever has stressed the corals may have taken time to actually show. It could be a combination of changes that together over stressed the coral. Lowering the nutrients to fast, dropping the alk to quickly, changing the lights, temp swings, co2 buildup, calcium or salinity swings. One stressor the coral may handle but bringing the alk down, lowering the nutrients and changing the light are all stressors that can cause necrosis, then because of the corals being stressed it can lower resistance to flat worms or even fish will start picking at unhealthy tissue. You will have to go slow and eliminate each item. There is always a cause but when we make multiple changes around the same time we don't know which caused it or the same can be said which fixed it.
 
What ever has stressed the corals may have taken time to actually show. It could be a combination of changes that together over stressed the coral. Lowering the nutrients to fast, dropping the alk to quickly, changing the lights, temp swings, co2 buildup, calcium or salinity swings. One stressor the coral may handle but bringing the alk down, lowering the nutrients and changing the light are all stressors that can cause necrosis, then because of the corals being stressed it can lower resistance to flat worms or even fish will start picking at unhealthy tissue. You will have to go slow and eliminate each item. There is always a cause but when we make multiple changes around the same time we don't know which caused it or the same can be said which fixed it.
I certainly believe that stressors can be detrimental to coral health, especially sps corals. So how do I eliminate possible causes? Go back to the original system? My parameters are actually healthier now than they were before. It's all just very confusing and counterintuitive.
 
I certainly believe that stressors can be detrimental to coral health, especially sps corals. So how do I eliminate possible causes? Go back to the original system? My parameters are actually healthier now than they were before. It's all just very confusing and counterintuitive.
Check and double check morning and evening all parameter over a few days. Be sure you take good sample of water from tank check ph and then put air stone in and see how much ph changes. If all test over the next few days are good let the system stabilize without making more changes. Sometimes our tweaking does more harm than good. Changes need to be over days, weeks and even months not hours. You can have the same sps in a similar spot in tank even a few inches apart and have one go bad while the other one does well. Sometime we never figure the cause.
 
Check and double check morning and evening all parameter over a few days. Be sure you take good sample of water from tank check ph and then put air stone in and see how much ph changes. If all test over the next few days are good let the system stabilize without making more changes. Sometimes our tweaking does more harm than good. Changes need to be over days, weeks and even months not hours. You can have the same sps in a similar spot in tank even a few inches apart and have one go bad while the other one does well. Sometime we never figure the cause.
I've got daily test records but I can certainly up that to twice a day if that would be beneficial. And I'm certainly not going to mess with much of anything, I want the system to level out by itself if it can. As for pH I know for a fact I have CO2 in te house because when I aerate a cup outside it goes from 7.8-8 up to 8.3-8.4. As for changes I never make them quickly. I know even changes that are or the better should still be done slowly.
 
no i dont think you can attribute the aquaforest bacteria to the issue but by feeding the tank a carbon source you have feed the life of the bad pathogen and it is very dominant,

imo as much as people like to think so water params are a very small minority of cases of rtn/stn and a majority are bacteria related.

i have no advice on resolving the issue as there is not much information around about cures.
 
Are you using an Apex or Archon controller? The one thing they are good for is graphing temp and ph. Check sample in the same room with an air stone if ph rises then more circulation is need in the tank. The only reason to check all parameters twice a day for just a few days is to make sure you are not overlooking the simple. With my setup I never used heaters or chiller and the temp never varied more than 2 degrees in a day. I moved did not bother checking the temp all the time but was checking off and on, until I had a couple frags lose tissue. Was having as much as 15 degree temp drop. First time ever had to use heaters, still not sure why the sudden drop.the house did not have that kind of drop.
 
The bacteria that causes white band is a possibility, gradual changes in parameters don't normally cause big problems unless they are way off but large swings do and they can cause corals and fish to get bacterial infections or parasites that when healthy would not be a problem.
 

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