Spots on my regal??

Seachem is an okay kit. use the 32 bio cube based on space for the QT assuming there is no rock or sand in there which will absorb some of the copper. Also assure any carbon is removed during treatment and increase oxygen.
Will do. Adding an airstone. Unfortunatly it has one piece of live rock and sand as it was set up for a nano
 
Will do. Adding an airstone. Unfortunatly it has one piece of live rock and sand as it was set up for a nano
So she is pooping now, long white and stringy.
 

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I also cant get her to eat. She is wild caught so Im not sure if she isnt going for the food cause shes used to live or if its cause of whatever she has
 
Okay Im doing a 10 gallon water change in the QT right now. Already dosed the cupramine. Will that help get it to a safe level? Ive got a copper test kit too

Sorry - just seeing this now when I woke up. I didn't mean to not run any copper at all, just that Cupramine wasn't my first choice for angelfish. It is still better than peroxide and some other options. What is the status of the tank/fish now?

Jay
 
I also cant get her to eat. She is wild caught so Im not sure if she isnt going for the food cause shes used to live or if its cause of whatever she has

Oh, sorry to hear that! That is a huge problem with this species in captivity. If it has ich, it is so early on, that it would not be affecting the fish's appetite, so this angel's not eating is a separate issue, common with this species.

Jay
 
So the hydrogen peroxide mentioned, where do you get that? Is it just common stuff used for disinfecting injuries?
I’d probably best refer you to Humblefishes site if thats OK with the mods. They have outlined the whole thing in a thread. But its moot as I see you got sound advise already here
Peroxide rarely works and rarely used and what copper kit are you using?
I would NOT dose the display tank with intent to return the inverts to same tank after treatment. The display needs to be fishless for at least 45-60 days. Any coral and inverts can remain in display safely
I worked for me 100%, twice in two tanks just recently on a purple tang, Moorish Idol and on a number of fish in another tank, but I won’t argue your experience as I can see a number of extenuating circumstances for it to fail.
 
I’d probably best refer you to Humblefishes site if thats OK with the mods. They have outlined the whole thing in a thread. But its moot as I see you got sound advise already here

I worked for me 100%, twice in two tanks just recently on a purple tang, Moorish Idol and on a number of fish in another tank, but I won’t argue your experience as I can see a number of extenuating circumstances for it to fail.
Im familiar with Bobby's recommendation and he even states TEMPORARY relief for velvet and brook. It does not cure ich and this fish needs effective treatment before it is dead as they are delicate in nature. This is R2R and not humblefish and often counter-intuitive with our recommendations. Does Not bother me but often a fish is lost and there is finger pointing at who is right and wrong. That becomes an issue
 
Im familiar with Bobby's recommendation and he even states TEMPORARY relief for velvet and brook. It does not cure ich and this fish needs effective treatment before it is dead as they are delicate in nature. This is R2R and not humblefish and often counter-intuitive with our recommendations. Does Not bother me but often a fish is lost and there is finger pointing at who is right and wrong. That becomes an issue
I followed thier protocol and now I don’t see anymore ich or spots. I call that “cured” but could be a bad choice of words. I also said if you have no other choice and can’t remove the fish, try H2O2. Personally my 1st choice is Coppersafe but you can’t always remove a fish from a DT so IMHO the reference I gave is better than nothing, again: if you have no other choice.
Edit add: not finger pointing or arguing with anyone, just offering another sample, H2O2 working for me 100% doesnt equate to 100% universal efficacy….and besides it appears the whole ich thing could be irrelevant anyway.
 
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Oh, sorry to hear that! That is a huge problem with this species in captivity. If it has ich, it is so early on, that it would not be affecting the fish's appetite, so this angel's not eating is a separate issue, common with this species.

Jay
Do you have any solutions to get her eating? I have a clam on the half shell in her tank now and nor banded to a rock. Ive been feeding live baby brine (might be too small, LFS doesnt have live food right now) and frozen algae, mysis, and sponge. She has some spots right now but is swimming around the QT tank. Breathing is normal and she appears relaxed.
 
Do you have any solutions to get her eating? I have a clam on the half shell in her tank now and nor banded to a rock. Ive been feeding live baby brine (might be too small, LFS doesnt have live food right now) and frozen algae, mysis, and sponge. She has some spots right now but is swimming around the QT tank. Breathing is normal and she appears relaxed.
My best luck with finicky wild caught fish has been with weening them on live food if you can get it. I’ve gone so far as to raise brine shrimp 1st before purchasing seahorses et … My last 2 new finicky eaters were a Rock beauty and a Moorish Idol… I had good luck with Mysis, Hikari Angelfish and Formula 2 … YMMV…good luck

BTW I defer to the more expert folks but for that stringy poop thing I “think” I used Focus + Metro or Kano or Neo Plex …(If I recall correctly) for better clarity: @Jay Hemdal

edit add: smearing coral skeletons with food does work sometimes
 
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My best luck with finicky wild caught fish has been with weening them on live food if you can get it. I’ve gone so far as to raise brine shrimp 1st before purchasing seahorses et … My last 2 new finicky eaters were a Rock beauty and a Moorish Idol… I had good luck with Mysis, Hikari Angelfish and Formula 2 … YMMV…good luck

BTW I defer to the more expert folks but for that stringy poop thing I “think” I used Focus + Metro or Kano or Neo Plex …(If I recall correctly) for better clarity: @Jay Hemdal

edit add: smearing coral skeletons with food does work sometimes

Stringy poop in a fish that isn't eating is just mucus replacing feces, no need to treat for that. Mixing Focus and medications can be done if you see mucus in a fish that is eating, but you need a gram scale to get the dose right.

This species can be a real heartbreaker - lots of tricks to try to get them feeding, but it is very rare to have them actually start up eating if they've been refusing food. The two tricks I use the most, you've already tried - live baby briner shrimp and clams/mussels on the half shell.

Jay
 
Stringy poop in a fish that isn't eating is just mucus replacing feces, no need to treat for that. Mixing Focus and medications can be done if you see mucus in a fish that is eating, but you need a gram scale to get the dose right.

This species can be a real heartbreaker - lots of tricks to try to get them feeding, but it is very rare to have them actually start up eating if they've been refusing food. The two tricks I use the most, you've already tried - live baby briner shrimp and clams/mussels on the half shell.

Jay
Okay, I will keep trying. Got some flakes and pellets that she seems to have a mall interest in. Im attached to her and Im determined to get her eating!
 
Okay, I will keep trying. Got some flakes and pellets that she seems to have a mall interest in. Im attached to her and Im determined to get her eating!
Some people have reported success with live tubifex worms if you can find some.
Jay
 
Wait they are bloodworms. I have frozen ones, but Ill see if I can get some live ones

Live bloodworms are difficult to get. Try the frozen ones though. Wear gloves when handling, some people are allergic to them.

Jay
 
Ive never head of those! Ill look i to them
sometimes called “California Blackworms” perhaps different from Tubifex …at any rate “by the pound “ is the way to buy (aquatic foods.com amongst others) long term storage being a shallow water tub, cold floor and airstone …. Pardon the thread left turn but perhaps relevant to providing for a sick fish with a poor appetite
 
sometimes called “California Blackworms” perhaps different from Tubifex …at any rate “by the pound “ is the way to buy (aquatic foods.com amongst others) long term storage being a shallow water tub, cold floor and airstone …. Pardon the thread left turn but perhaps relevant to providing for a sick fish with a poor appetite

Yes - "blackworms" is the correct name. We used to call them "tubifex" back in the 1960's

Jay
 
sometimes called “California Blackworms” perhaps different from Tubifex …at any rate “by the pound “ is the way to buy (aquatic foods.com amongst others) long term storage being a shallow water tub, cold floor and airstone …. Pardon the thread left turn but perhaps relevant to providing for a sick fish with a poor appetite
Oh okay! My LFS has them sometimes. Ill have to look. Shes picking at some stuff now, and I added frozen blood worms so maybe like will help her transition.
 
Update!! She is doing fantastic and has started eating blood worms and clams on the half shell!!! Still has a few ich spots but shes getting better every day!! Thank you for all who posted here with ideas and stuff to help her! Officially named her Annabelle.
 

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