Reefhaven
Active Member
i recently purchased a few sps frags and when I got them they were bright yellow with red polyps and now the frag turned green. What causes that and what can I do the get it back to yellow. Thanks
Sps changing color!
- Thread starter Reefhaven
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Probably nutrient related. check your parameters.
BryanS4
Well-Known Member
In most case when I had frags turn Green it was from lack of light. I even had a few red ones turn green.
Since switching from Led to T5, they have colored up back to the original color.
I'm not sure what kind of lights you're running, but when I was researching possible causes it seemed like a number of people had issues with frags turning green under Led's. Not sure if that applies to you, just throwing it out there.
Since switching from Led to T5, they have colored up back to the original color.
I'm not sure what kind of lights you're running, but when I was researching possible causes it seemed like a number of people had issues with frags turning green under Led's. Not sure if that applies to you, just throwing it out there.
fraghunter
Well-Known Member
Wow unbelievable how much wrong advice can be thrown out on a forum. BryanS4 touched on some good advice . It has to do with the light but switching lights is not the total or cheapest solution. Though very vague in your post a some general info might help you. Nutrients in a sps tank are not bad but.depends what level. Not enough lights or the correct par or pur have a lot to do with it as well. So here ate some facts . There is a big diffrence between Mara cultured sps and aquaculture sps. I would never buy Mara cultured they are drags taken into the ocean and grown to a certain point then taken out of natural ocean parameters and natural light and put into out system under artificial lights and very diffrent parameters. So the stress and all the diffrent parameters of water makeup and light spectrum will turn them green or brown. They may or may never go back to their original colors. Aquaclutured is from other tanks wether commercial or hobbyists. So these are the ones I lean towards. They could also brown out or green out. Again stress and change of parameters. So I use led and have great success with dps domiant tank. So let's say where I'm getting the pieces from are kept to the same high standards as my tank. Then I look or ask what type of lights do you grow under. Again this is not an issues of light pretence but if someone is growing under halides I will pass on the piece because I know that bringing that coral into my tank it will brown or green out for a long time. If I bring an led grown coral into my tank it goes right under normal light . T5 I acclimate over weeks starting at the bottom indirect light and slowly bringing to full light. Not that I wouldn't buy a drag grown under halide but the pinks and yellows take a very long time to readjust to my spectrum. Weeks to months. My 2 cents
Diesel
ME=1, CANCER=0.
Best way to get a fair answer is to post pics and some info about your tank.
Most Members here can help you out to have great success in this hobby.
A. Total water volume ( Please include sump, etc.)
B. What are your parameters? ( CA, ALK, PO4,Salinity, etc.)
C. Type of lighting. Please include age, watts, and bulb/ballast name.
D. Filtration method (Skimmer, GFO, DSB, etc.)
E. What types of corals do you keep other than SPS?
F. How long has the tank been running?
G. What are you dosing? Dosing schedule?
H. Which brand of salt are you using?
I. What brand of test kits are you employing?
J. What are you using for CA/ALK supplementation?
K. What are you using for flow? (Pump names, how many, placement, etc.)
Most Members here can help you out to have great success in this hobby.
A. Total water volume ( Please include sump, etc.)
B. What are your parameters? ( CA, ALK, PO4,Salinity, etc.)
C. Type of lighting. Please include age, watts, and bulb/ballast name.
D. Filtration method (Skimmer, GFO, DSB, etc.)
E. What types of corals do you keep other than SPS?
F. How long has the tank been running?
G. What are you dosing? Dosing schedule?
H. Which brand of salt are you using?
I. What brand of test kits are you employing?
J. What are you using for CA/ALK supplementation?
K. What are you using for flow? (Pump names, how many, placement, etc.)
jasonandsarah
Sticks, sticks and more STICKS
And what did you say that no one else said? I mean some of your info is the most misleading imo. I have several pieces from halide tanks that never changed color at all.
My thinking was I doubt it's a Mari since he said yellow with red polyps. Also I don't think the type of lighting you have makes a huge difference(halides, T5 or Leds) as long as your settings are good and schedule isn't too short/long. Nutrients could definitely be a factor but I've had yellow sticks with low and high No3 and Po4 with good results as long as the intensity was right the colors were right. Just my 2 cents [emoji6]
Picture of the frag would definitely help. Also what are you testing your parameters with to get back all zeros?
fraghunter
Well-Known Member
Misleading? Not sure why you need to go on the defensive I speaking on posts that give people absolute wrong info . What if I was to throwout ever frag tha greened/browned out how much death would that be?
jasonandsarah
Sticks, sticks and more STICKS
Not trying to be defensive but if you think someone's giving wrongful information you should quote them instead of making a general statement. I agree with the statement "lots of misinformation thrown around on forums" I just don't like general statements about lighting. So many newbies continually change they're lighting because people say this light is better or this light sucks.
Also I saw that post as well. Just because a frag turns green doesn't mean it's dying or dead. Unless of course that green is algae.[emoji4]
fraghunter
Well-Known Member
I agree and did state that I was not commenting on lighting just my experience on how long it takes for a frag/coral to color back up or to its original color after switching from one system/spectrum to another.
No worries I think we are more or less on the same page here.
Reefhaven
Active Member
Hey diesel, nice to see you on here! The answers to the questions are above. Thanks again for everyone's help!
Diesel
ME=1, CANCER=0.
To me all looks with in range.
Are all your aros's turning green or just a few?
Did you ever did a PAR reading on the lights you have running now?
Not sure where the placing is in your tank for the troubled acro's but moving them up maybe might work.
Pics would be great as they tell us thousand words.
My apologies again. a joke gone wrong. and the edit option is gone from only this thread.There's a edit feature that we all can use and keep this threat on track.
Daniel@R2R
Living the Reef Life
Unless there's a "threat" we need to address in the name of site security, the edit feature is there to help... LOLThere's a edit feature that we all can use and keep this threat on track.
Daniel@R2R
Living the Reef Life
No worries, bud. That's why R2R has a clean up crew that is here to help.
hinovak
Well-Known Member
I would not freak out just yet. Yellow acros take a bit to come back around to yellow. Almost everytime I frag my yellow topaz, I give the frag to someone else, after dipping and then being put into a different system, they always go to green. I even have picture proof! It's funny you started this thread because my LFS and I were talking about this recently. The top photo is my yellow topaz. The bottom photo is a frag of mine at my LFS after a couple weeks in their system. From the sound of your frag you have a pink lemonade. If you are having success with other acros in your system, and you just got this one, give it a bit. If you have not kept other acros before, refer to all that was said above, there could be many reasons. However, sometimes they just need a bit to get happy to get to their original color.
