SPS coral not happy (Help me pleasee) :-)

[Garf]

Thanks for the reaction, have to mention that I live in Holland... So I guess they dont rent to me hahahaha

I'm thinking to buy this Seneye Reef (v2) which has a par meter inside.

What’s your salinity, and how do you calibrate? What’s the alkalinity of your water change, water?

 

[Dkeller_nc]

Thanks for the reaction, have to mention that I live in Holland... So I guess they dont rent to me hahahaha

I'm thinking to buy this Seneye Reef (v2) which has a par meter inside.

Oops, should've noticed that. The netherlands has an incredibly active reef community, and I'd bet there's a fellow hobbyist not very far from where you live that has a PAR meter. Most of us are very interested in seeing each other's tanks, and helping fellow reefers out, so perhaps this is an opportunity to connect with a fellow hobbyist near where you are.

I've one other suggestion for you. New(ish) tanks typically have fairly low inorganic nutrients (i.e., phosphate and nitrate) in the water, at least after the initial tank-setup and cycling. For sensitive species of SPS, there's a pretty well established correlation between tip-burning and/or RTN with low dissolved inorganic nutrients, high lighting intensity, and higher alkalinity.

In general, your numbers that you posted in the first part of the thread look "fine", but every tank, every coral strain and every water test brand is different. Compound the water test brand accuracy variations with a hobbyist's specific execution of a water test, and there's a fair amount of uncertainty about the accuracy of particular parameters that a hobbyist obtains on their particular tank water.

Dropping your light intensity is one part of the triad of nutrients/alkalinity/light intensity, but you might want to consider whether your alkalinity and/or nutrient values are accurate. Here on the chemistry forum, issues with execution of alkalinity titration, interpretation of nitrate test values and even accurate measurement of specific gravity are extremely common. That doesn't mean that your values aren't correct, of course, but it's one more item to keep in mind.

 

[Rick D]

What’s your salinity, and how do you calibrate? What’s the alkalinity of your water change, water?

Salinity is 1.035 and I always test the water salinty of the tank, and then the salinity of the new water.
So this will always match, and also using ato.

Alkalinty is a little bit highter then the tank, i just noticed.

But since my Alk is a bit low, Im trying to slowley up it to 9.

And I think its a little bit better for the montipora now, no White spots seen yet.

But some SPS still not extening polips as much as when I bought them.

 

[Rick D]

Just a few thoughts. Do you have any coral that releases long sweeper tentacles? Something like a Hollywood stunner chalice? And I noticed you have a dragon wrasse. Could it be that the wrasse is damaging the coral by trying to move it? They are well known for moving coral.

I have a euphyllia glabrescens which is not near the sps coral.
Also have a dragon soul, and a few more.

But non are near the sps corals.

The dragon wrasse is back to the store, because of the behavior you mention.
It wasnt in there for long, LFS did not find the need to tell this to me...

 

[Rick D]

Oops, should've noticed that. The netherlands has an incredibly active reef community, and I'd bet there's a fellow hobbyist not very far from where you live that has a PAR meter. Most of us are very interested in seeing each other's tanks, and helping fellow reefers out, so perhaps this is an opportunity to connect with a fellow hobbyist near where you are.

I've one other suggestion for you. New(ish) tanks typically have fairly low inorganic nutrients (i.e., phosphate and nitrate) in the water, at least after the initial tank-setup and cycling. For sensitive species of SPS, there's a pretty well established correlation between tip-burning and/or RTN with low dissolved inorganic nutrients, high lighting intensity, and higher alkalinity.

In general, your numbers that you posted in the first part of the thread look "fine", but every tank, every coral strain and every water test brand is different. Compound the water test brand accuracy variations with a hobbyist's specific execution of a water test, and there's a fair amount of uncertainty about the accuracy of particular parameters that a hobbyist obtains on their particular tank water.

Dropping your light intensity is one part of the triad of nutrients/alkalinity/light intensity, but you might want to consider whether your alkalinity and/or nutrient values are accurate. Here on the chemistry forum, issues with execution of alkalinity titration, interpretation of nitrate test values and even accurate measurement of specific gravity are extremely common. That doesn't mean that your values aren't correct, of course, but it's one more item to keep in mind.

Good point, but I have tested aloth and it seems te be accurate as far as I can see.
I'm going to buy a hanna checker ulr for phosphate and one for alkalinity.

Hope this will give me a more accurate reading.

I use redsea test kit for everything now, and salifert one for nirate also.

 

[Garf]

Salinity is 1.035 and I always test the water salinty of the tank, and then the salinity of the new water.
So this will always match, and also using ato.

Alkalinty is a little bit highter then the tank, i just noticed.

But since my Alk is a bit low, Im trying to slowley up it to 9.

And I think its a little bit better for the montipora now, no White spots seen yet.

But some SPS still not extening polips as much as when I bought them.

I hope that salinity reading is just a typo error.

 

[rusgum]

Good point, but I have tested aloth and it seems te be accurate as far as I can see.
I'm going to buy a hanna checker ulr for phosphate and one for alkalinity.

Hope this will give me a more accurate reading.

I use redsea test kit for everything now, and salifert one for nirate also.

Buying an egg for measuring phosphate is the right decision. And already from accurate measurements to make the right decisions. I think that the dosage of the carbon additive should be reduced or eliminated altogether. In general, my opinion is that the system is not ready yet.

 

[Rick D]

I hope that salinity reading is just a typo error.

35ppt I mean

 

[Rick D]

Buying an egg for measuring phosphate is the right decision. And already from accurate measurements to make the right decisions. I think that the dosage of the carbon additive should be reduced or eliminated altogether. In general, my opinion is that the system is not ready yet.

You think? why sould i stop it?

It helps keep nitrate and phosphate down i guess.

 

[Rick D]

I think I know the problem thanks to you guys.

2 Days ago I did a water change.
And I also did change the light spectrum to a standard template of Mobius (radion) the PHX14 template.

Next they all white spots on the montipora.
Probably is the light intensity, So I placed the rock with the montipora plate on the bottom of the tank.
And I will just monitor it verry good.

And maybe place the corals in diffrect parts of the tank?

 

[rusgum]

You think? why sould i stop it?

It helps keep nitrate and phosphate down i guess.

Of course, this helps to manage nitrate and phosphate, but in such a young system, I would balance the number of fish and their feeding.

 

[Rick D]

Of course, this helps to manage nitrate and phosphate, but in such a young system, I would balance the number of fish and their feeding.

Okay wel I managed to get it down aloth already.
So I turn the dosing pump off, and I will monitor a week.
And test nitrate and phos everyday

 

[Bouncingsoul39]

i’d stop dosing carbon until the tank is more mature friend.

 

[Rick D]

i’d stop dosing carbon until the tank is more mature friend.

Alright, Im just dosing kh and ph buffer from DSR EZ now.

 

[rusgum]

Alright, Im just dosing kh and ph buffer from DSR EZ now.

Why do you dose ph buffer?

 

[Rick D]

Why do you dose ph buffer?

Its part of the DSR EZ bottle.

Would you advice me to dose something els?

It keeps my Alk stable for sure, never tested ph.

 

[rusgum]

Its part of the DSR EZ bottle.

Would you advice me to dose something els?

It keeps my Alk stable for sure, never tested ph.

I realized that the bottle is two in one and goes as part of the balling. Then there is no question.