SPS frag survival percentage

Their is much truth to what RussiReef statement and some truth about Justingram statement..

My tank is a SPS reef tank is about 8 weeks old.I added 7 frags ( Monti, styro, etc) few days ago and will test some acro frags after few month. My tank flow, lighting schedule, and stability are top notch but regardless of this their are many X-Factors in this hobby - LR and sponge and other bacteria development play a significant role in having corals survive and having corals thrive. I added pods to my refugium (which is taking off) and added about 10LB of established LR from another hobbyist tank which is full of sponges so my time frame before I can provide acros with ideal (X-Factor) water will likely be 6 -8 months, not 2-3 years.
 
When I first started to try my hand at SPS, I was 3/7 for frags making it, most dying (STN, RTN) within a couple months. The survivors looking pale.

My last batch I picked up in October is 9/9. Colors are great and they're encrusting like champs.
 
I just skrewed up and orderd 5 SPS frags and mini colonies. I am losing patients looking at all rock I mean I need a magnify glass to enjoy these lil nubs..
 
This is my biggest problem. Can't understand why some do well, as others die over night or within weeks, while others thrive. Polpy extension is there, but coral dies anyway, bleaching. Haven't gotten a solution from any vendor.
My best success has been from corals I've purchased from fellow reefers, not any of the better vendors. With most corals doing well, the honest guys simply tell me " Welcome to the hobby!", which doesn't sit well, but these reefers also lose corals, full colonies, and don't have a answer either. I can't justify spending $50- $100.00 per coral from any vendor who has no solutions. I keep trying, but in my opinion, I would rather support a fellow reefer, pay $10- $30.00 per frag, and have a higher success rate 80-90%.
 
Many SPS are very sensitive to parameter changes. Salinity ,Alkalinity,Ph and temperature. Are the main killers of SPS. I drip acclimate all new corals for a couple of hours based on testing the water in their shipping bags.
 
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Many SPS are very sensitive to parameter changes. Salinity ,Alkalinity,Ph and temperature. Are the main killers of SPS. I drop acclimate all new corals for a couple of hours based on testing the water in their shipping bags.

This is true... Main things I am testing and having success keeping stable is Alk, CA, Temp, salinity and PH.. I let the refugium, skimmer, carbon, bacteria take care of the nutrients and rather not put too much emphasis on this at this time.... Ironically, its very easy to keep these stable with just some planning.
 
This is my biggest problem. Can't understand why some do well, as others die over night or within weeks, while others thrive. Polpy extension is there, but coral dies anyway, bleaching. Haven't gotten a solution from any vendor.
My best success has been from corals I've purchased from fellow reefers, not any of the better vendors. With most corals doing well, the honest guys simply tell me " Welcome to the hobby!", which doesn't sit well, but these reefers also lose corals, full colonies, and don't have a answer either. I can't justify spending $50- $100.00 per coral from any vendor who has no solutions. I keep trying, but in my opinion, I would rather support a fellow reefer, pay $10- $30.00 per frag, and have a higher success rate 80-90%.

Corals grown from fellow hobbyist are used to being swinging parameters and artificial lights// I got my first batch of SPS from a fellow hobbyist and knowing he had same exact lighting I didnt even have to acclimate them (i feel good about these corals all thriving). I just added 2 maricultured corals (acros) and 3 other easier to keep SPS frags (porcili, sytros, etc) from vendor and hoping that they do well but I know its a hit or miss.
 
You tossed them 'cause they don't survive or they stay purple and do nothing?
That was my thought to. I've had frags "do nothing" for 6, 7, 8, even 9 mos. Then all of a sudden they just start growing.

Unless it's dead, like dead dead...leave it in the tank.
 
I have to think a well seasoned system would be a benefit, my tank is 3 months old and I am having a struggle to keep stable,
And water changes weekly, and filter socks maintenance along with lots of carbon. I have lost a few frags and all but 1 recrusted
So don't toss em out . I also beleve a seasoned coralined tank helps with stability.
 
I have to think a well seasoned system would be a benefit, my tank is 3 months old and I am having a struggle to keep stable,
And water changes weekly, and filter socks maintenance along with lots of carbon. I have lost a few frags and all but 1 recrusted
So don't toss em out . I also beleve a seasoned coralined tank helps with stability.
Have you had an sps tank before?

I mean are you having these problems because the tank is three months old or because this is the first time you have had sps?

I'm not trying to start a fight or anything I just don't think a 3 month old tank should have any problems growing sps. Now a three month old tank with the owner never having done sps yes I see a problem.

And if anything coraline algea does the opposite it depletes ur alk faster then if you didn't have it.
 
I'm going to loose a shoe in this one.

I have a bunch of frags coming in and was told to fire up a QT
For them, so that would support your claim of clean and stable gets you there , just like vendors at the reef shows.
And yes this is my first Serious attempt at a SPS tank.
 
Order corals from Adam@Battlecorals. If they die, it's your tank.

I don't acclimate frags except a float for 15min to bring temps up. My success rate with adams corals is 100% and my tank is only a year old. I think the "new tank" excuse is far too overblown. Many people have success with sps in tanks that are only a couple months old.

Are your frags actually getting 350par? Or is that the level you see directly under your radion? Cause my experience has always been that people have frag racks on the ends/corners/back of their tanks and paticularly when running leds those places have WAY less par. With a tank running nitrates at 5 or more you'll need to make sure everything is getting sufficient lighting and 350par for a lot of sps's is barely going to cut it let alone if it's less than that cause your frag rack is on the end of your tank.
 
There is something to be said about a young tank and growing coral, in general. A new tank (0-6 months) isn't fully established biologically /chemically or in general completely for these reasons if:

1. If the system isn't from a "transfer tank", (upgrade from a established system. ) Use of dry rock, new sand, etc.... just takes longer to become balanced biologically. I call these "raw systems"

2. New tanks ( transfer, raw) can take time to balance chemically. (Water pramameters) This is mostly impart due to the keeper learning, through testing, what the tank is using and what is needed to maintain water chemistry/parameters and how to adjust accordingly.

3. Changing stuff, part one - messing with and adding/ different equipment. This is a learning curve for some as a new tank may, especially the new hobbyist, reveal poor equipment choices or a need to change equipment to improve performance based on need or want.

4. Changing stuff, part two - changing lighting settings, flow and direction, rearranging rock work, changing/ adding sand and adding/ removing/ dead livestock.

5. Changing stuff, part three - over reacting to water pramameters and constantly adjusting them to keep them in proper values too quickly by adding/ dosing "for the moment".

6. Dealing with livestock issues - disease and parasites, fish and coral. Honestly, this happens to all of us at some point, regardless if a tank is new or years old. Can and does cause stress to everything or select living things in the tank. Lack of quarantining new livestock.....

7. The dreaded "nasties" - the biological process that everyone experiences with a new tank (and sometimes old tanks) Algae, diatoms and Cyanobacteria. Treating them chemically, siphoning, scrubbing, lights out......etc.

8. L.A.R.S. ( Lazy $&@ reefer syndrome) lol. Lack of consistency in husbandry/maintenance. Just not doing what is needed to maintain the tank and/or what's in it in a timely manner. Letting things go to long and then reacting too late or over reacting.

9. Lack of knowledge/ lack of research/ lack of preparation -misinformation, not doing your "home work" before buying that coral, equipment, fish....... listening to that bad LFS that tells you "it will be fine to add to your tank!"

And finally......

10. Patients - nothing in this hobby that is good happens fast. The only exception is an emergency. This goes hand in hand with the above. Wanting things to be a certain way "faster" than money and/or time can provide. "My corals look bad", "My corals don't seem to grow much".......... I'll add this because someone said it works.... dump. I think it's my lights, (buys new lights).....etc. Quick changes will cause more harm than good, at least for most things we do in this hobby.

All of this is NOT a dig on new hobbyists, remember we all were new at sometime and I'm just as guilty as the next when talking about the above.

All of the above contributes to corals in general having a tuff time or not making it. This doesn't take into account where the coral came from, it's general health at the time of purchase, what we do to acclimate them into our systems and long term care. There's just so much more than one thing to think about in this hobby.
 
WCW has been excellent. Was out for a while because of moving and surgery and foun out this past week that live aquaria is going down hill. I live a mile from That Fish Place and settling into there very well
 
I would lower alk closer to 8 and nitrates and phosphates closer to 0 but not 0 unless your adding supplements to feed the corals.
Also if buying frags try and purchase encrusted. They ship better and will take off faster.
 
Just wondering what are the survival rates of small frags purchased online. My survival rate is pretty crummy

For those who have a good survival rate are you growing your frags out in a drag tank or in your display

What types of frags are you buying? Could it be that your tank is just not accommodating to the needs of a specific genera? I know in my case I have trouble with Seriatopora even though many say it's a great beginner SPS. I have no trouble with Stylophora, Pocillopora and Acropora, though.
 
Hi, Sorry to hear that you are having trouble with your frags. In my opinion, the maturity of the tank makes a BIG DIFFERENCE. You have stated that your tank is only 10 month old. Young tank can't support the life of many different corals, especially Acro. It took me 2.5-3 years to mature the tank in order to successfully keep and grow acropora and other corals.
Good Luck on this great hobby.

My tank is 4 months old. Mastered how to keep a clean tank with stable parameters. I have Acros, Montis, even wall hammers and all are doing great. I think if you have all parameters right, good lighting, and good circulation you can move faster. I also have an undersized skimmer, run filter sock less and have a big cheato farm. So I do it differently than most. My growth rates are off the chart for almost all my corals. Like people have said there is no right way to run a reef. Btw my nitrates are at 1-2ppm and phosphates are undetectable via Red Sea kit. People come over and see my small HOB skimmer and freak out. Then they see my algea factory. The cheato is a natural filter.
 
Where I am going with this is I believe that corals need to have regular feedings and if you have a huge skimmer and filter the hell out of your water, this makes life as a coral hard. So it could be true that it is hard to establish SPS in that environment. But if you have a clean water system (nitrates and phosphates) that at the same time is nutrient rich (reef chili, reef roids, oyster, etc) you can grow anything. Right now my greenbay packer zoa colony is putting out almost 1 polyp per day!!!
 
There is something to be said about a young tank and growing coral, in general. A new tank (0-6 months) isn't fully established biologically /chemically or in general completely for these reasons if:

1. If the system isn't from a "transfer tank", (upgrade from a established system. ) Use of dry rock, new sand, etc.... just takes longer to become balanced biologically. I call these "raw systems"

2. New tanks ( transfer, raw) can take time to balance chemically. (Water pramameters) This is mostly impart due to the keeper learning, through testing, what the tank is using and what is needed to maintain water chemistry/parameters and how to adjust accordingly.

3. Changing stuff, part one - messing with and adding/ different equipment. This is a learning curve for some as a new tank may, especially the new hobbyist, reveal poor equipment choices or a need to change equipment to improve performance based on need or want.

4. Changing stuff, part two - changing lighting settings, flow and direction, rearranging rock work, changing/ adding sand and adding/ removing/ dead livestock.

5. Changing stuff, part three - over reacting to water pramameters and constantly adjusting them to keep them in proper values too quickly by adding/ dosing "for the moment".

6. Dealing with livestock issues - disease and parasites, fish and coral. Honestly, this happens to all of us at some point, regardless if a tank is new or years old. Can and does cause stress to everything or select living things in the tank. Lack of quarantining new livestock.....

7. The dreaded "nasties" - the biological process that everyone experiences with a new tank (and sometimes old tanks) Algae, diatoms and Cyanobacteria. Treating them chemically, siphoning, scrubbing, lights out......etc.

8. L.A.R.S. ( Lazy $&@ reefer syndrome) lol. Lack of consistency in husbandry/maintenance. Just not doing what is needed to maintain the tank and/or what's in it in a timely manner. Letting things go to long and then reacting too late or over reacting.

9. Lack of knowledge/ lack of research/ lack of preparation -misinformation, not doing your "home work" before buying that coral, equipment, fish....... listening to that bad LFS that tells you "it will be fine to add to your tank!"

And finally......

10. Patients - nothing in this hobby that is good happens fast. The only exception is an emergency. This goes hand in hand with the above. Wanting things to be a certain way "faster" than money and/or time can provide. "My corals look bad", "My corals don't seem to grow much".......... I'll add this because someone said it works.... dump. I think it's my lights, (buys new lights).....etc. Quick changes will cause more harm than good, at least for most things we do in this hobby.

All of this is NOT a dig on new hobbyists, remember we all were new at sometime and I'm just as guilty as the next when talking about the above.

All of the above contributes to corals in general having a tuff time or not making it. This doesn't take into account where the coral came from, it's general health at the time of purchase, what we do to acclimate them into our systems and long term care. There's just so much more than one thing to think about in this hobby.

Thank you Flipper4pups for this it makes so much sense
 
IMHO- " tank is about 10 months" could be one of the concerns.

I also thing frags less than ~1" have a higher mortality rate, at least for me.

I agree. Larger ones are definitely more hardy. Especially if they're encrusted (Although I would recommend breaking it off the plug that could carry pests) I don't really have problems with frags I order (@Mr.D on here, another I forget that I got some off of about a year ago, @AquaSD , SoCaL aquafarms, @Reefwise - all I trust and very much respect so far....not naming here those I don't). I have only received two orders from people that were terrible. A vendor I will never deal with again, and a member on here who sent bleached out tiny frags. 5 of which are toast (some same day), and only a couple have actually started to get color to their skin now (and these were supposed to be mostly high end frags). It's insane to see the patches of skin coloring up again...they were literally mostly transparent. Otherwise I haven't had problems. I would suggest closely inspecting the frags pictures. You'd be surprised of the things you can pick up on leaning towards or away from a healthy frag.

If ever a doubt I know lots of people here could steer you in a solid direction. I don't like corals from my LFSs due to heavy pest issues.
 

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