Sps still bleaching
- Thread starter renato120
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renato120
Valuable Member
Yep! Im very grateful for all the help here. Since I cant get anything wrong with the water, Im doing bigger water changes, carbon out, I raised the lights, I cut 1 hour of lights, gfo is off, and im checking parameters a least 3 times a week. I stop dosing amino acid as well.
another thing to add... on other ulns and my readings based on redfield.
photosythesis cannot occur without nitrate and phosphate.
having your lights on for extended periods with such a low nutrient system may stress corals out more than help.
id kick it up to that photoperiod after you have no3 and po4 to burn up.
just my .02
photosythesis cannot occur without nitrate and phosphate.
having your lights on for extended periods with such a low nutrient system may stress corals out more than help.
id kick it up to that photoperiod after you have no3 and po4 to burn up.
just my .02
Chaz D
Active Member
Better to keep them small and consistent, you don't want big changes especially as it relates to alk.
Myka
Valuable Member
You say this has been going on for a couple months, and you said you switched all the bulbs at the same time a couple months ago. I think you have your answer. Though I'd think they'd be recovering by now.
Is Instant Ocean the salt you normally use? If so, and you don't dose Mg, then I would expect Mg to be low, not 1440 ppm. 1100 ppm might be correct. Mix up a batch of fresh saltwater using RO/DI (you use RO/DI right?) and test calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium. We should be able to tell which test kits are accurate as the values in each brand of salt are predictable.
A Triton test would take the question out of it. Take the sample for the Triton test, and then test your tank with your own test kits at the same time. Then compare the results when you get them.
Is Instant Ocean the salt you normally use? If so, and you don't dose Mg, then I would expect Mg to be low, not 1440 ppm. 1100 ppm might be correct. Mix up a batch of fresh saltwater using RO/DI (you use RO/DI right?) and test calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium. We should be able to tell which test kits are accurate as the values in each brand of salt are predictable.
A Triton test would take the question out of it. Take the sample for the Triton test, and then test your tank with your own test kits at the same time. Then compare the results when you get them.
