Still struggeling help

I go to dosing peroxide 1 ml per 38 liters every 12 hours for a couple weeks.
My only concern is that h2o2, even at low levels, might have an effect on micro fauna like pods and plankton?
 
My only concern is that h2o2, even at low levels, might have an effect on micro fauna like pods and plankton?
I did it and never saw an impact on anything, just turn off skimmer if you have 1. With H2O2 all it is is water with an extra oxygen molecule.
 
Like I've mentioned to Cyproz on his last thread I've mentioned that I've used a algae scrubber for 2years and it's work wonders for me has took care of a lot of types of algae by feeding on all the phosphate and unwanted nutrients in the water you can build you one under 10 bucks you can YouTube on how to build a algae scrubber [emoji4] here's my home made one..
IMG_1478268965.251314.jpg
 
But Should could battle it whit out an algae scrubber ? Just gloses refugium due to Aquaforest method
 
Yeah you can I've tried lots of ways I've been in the hobby for 9years I've tried lots of things water changes down to algae remover liquids that have killed my fish before had to do 90% water charges to recover a tank do to that [emoji45] in the past I've learned a lot trial and error but best solution I've found by far in battling algae is just farm it on a scrubber
 
I've cycled new tanks using scrubbers under 3days takes care of Dino algae great as well
 
I myself when I deal with stuff like this i take a multi prong approach. Restrict nutrients like I am sure you are doing and manually scrub the crap out of it every few days. I mean everything from rocks to glass. If you are restricting nutrients and are acting in place of a grazer when scrubbing you will force the algae to go from growth phase to constantly having to repair the damage that you did. This forces algae to use up its stock pile of nutrients most algae keep and instead of putting this to growth it uses it up on repairing. You will notice a quick drop in new growth and what you have will start to go away. I would try and filter out as much as you can of the algae filaments from the water. If you keep on it it will start to go away. To speed things up i myself take out the top rocks and the worst effected out of the tank and spray peroxide on them and let them sit for 15 min and put them back into the tank without rinsing. Only do a few\small amount of rocks a day so your system is not over loaded. Keep an eye out for any negative effects.
 
Just changed ro Aquaforest Probio salt all corals ect looks alot better after.

Im running Aquaforest zeolite Aquaforest po4 media and Aquaforest Carbon.

I read through all of your thread posts. I hope you know that you can not use AF Probio salt when you already have this much of algae growing in the system. It contains amino acid and vitamin supplements other than the beneficial bacteria. So these will give enough fuel for more algae growth. Stop using that salt and shift to their reef salt. Also start dosing Bio S and NP Pro for 14 days and then shift to Pro Bio S. Bio S will kick start a better nitrogen cycle and then once it is established you can use Pro bio S to get rid of the NO3 and PO4. Stop using zeolite for the moment and start using GFO. I would not recommend AF phosphate minus as it is very light and you need something more strong at the moment. Continue doing this for atleast a month. Also do you use a skimmer ? Most important how much and what you feed?
 
I read through all of your thread posts. I hope you know that you can not use AF Probio salt when you already have this much of algae growing in the system. It contains amino acid and vitamin supplements other than the beneficial bacteria. So these will give enough fuel for more algae growth. Stop using that salt and shift to their reef salt. Also start dosing Bio S and NP Pro for 14 days and then shift to Pro Bio S. Bio S will kick start a better nitrogen cycle and then once it is established you can use Pro bio S to get rid of the NO3 and PO4. Stop using zeolite for the moment and start using GFO. I would not recommend AF phosphate minus as it is very light and you need something more strong at the moment. Continue doing this for atleast a month. Also do you use a skimmer ? Most important how much and what you feed?

Okay Ill get a bucket og reefsalt then. Though it would help get po4 and no3 Down. The Pro version

Since i re did my rockwork becurse of this i started using bio s which have been dumped to the tank for 14 days. But not alting whit np Pro .

Got some rowa po4 granulate

Im running a Nyos quantum skimmer 160 i clean every second Day or so

I dont feed alot like 1 a week to try controller nutritions going in.
 
I had the same problem we came to the conclusion that the salt has a lot of phosphates in it as well as any phosphates that your rocks were exposed to previously are going to leech out
I was also using Pukalani dry rock from BRS but after a lot of water changes and setting up zeovit from KZ system
 
I had the same problem we came to the conclusion that the salt has a lot of phosphates in it as well as any phosphates that your rocks were exposed to previously are going to leech out
I was also using Pukalani dry rock from BRS but after a lot of water changes and setting up zeovit from KZ system

U managede to beat it ?
 
I think youll see massive improvements with a cuc as well as manual removal.
I would go astraeas, ceriths, trochus, nassarius. (I would also put hermits in there-but thats just my opinion. some dont like them because theyre meat eaters)
The astraeas will be the powerhouse algae eater, the others will take care of small amounts. ceriths/nassarius will stirr up the sand bed.

Also, you can clean the sand using this approach if you wanted:
1-use a 1" hose to siphon out just the top of the sand bed, basically just the algae sitting on top.
2. in the bucket, remove all water (trash that water) so you only have sand left. Try to get out all the water you can.
3. in the bucket, put 3% H2O2. enough to cover all the sand you have in there. stir really well.
4. leave sit for 3 days.
5. dump out H2O2 and rinse with tap water. when thats done, rinse with RO water.
6. after all rinses and the diatoms/cyano is washed away, return sand to tank.

Thats how I got rid of my diatom bloom/cyano on the sand a few months ago.

good luck.
 
Okay Ill get a bucket og reefsalt then. Though it would help get po4 and no3 Down. The Pro version

Since i re did my rockwork becurse of this i started using bio s which have been dumped to the tank for 14 days. But not alting whit np Pro .

Got some rowa po4 granulate

Im running a Nyos quantum skimmer 160 i clean every second Day or so

I dont feed alot like 1 a week to try controller nutritions going in.
The pro version will definitely help to lower down the PO4 and NO3 once you reached the ULNS state. Its a complete package with bacteria, vitamin and amino all together but you need to understand that its customised for all those people who already have a ULNS system not like yours.Put the ROWA in the sump with a reactor and change it after 3-4 days for first two weeks. Dont use a lot in a single go but change it frequently. What and how much you feed the fishes and corals?
 
I had the same problem we came to the conclusion that the salt has a lot of phosphates in it as well as any phosphates that your rocks were exposed to previously are going to leech out
I was also using Pukalani dry rock from BRS but after a lot of water changes and setting up zeovit from KZ system

Which salt you are referring here?
 
One more thing about H2O2 dosing. It will sure help you to get rid of cyano but if you dont find the cause then be ready to face it again. So try to cure the cause not the symptom. I am hopeful you will get rid of it but you need time.
 
U managede to beat it ?

I did beat it took a little time a lot of water changes and get your nutrients under control and you should have no more problems one thing I didn't get that eat the stuff like nothing else was a sea-hair
 
Like the other guy said though find out what is causing the nutrient problems
 

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