Storing ro/di water question

jakeh22

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Hey guys I had a question about how some of you store you’re ro water and what you use to keep it to minimum ppm while sitting. I am a freak and check my ppm in my top off quite frequently. I wanted to maybe buy one of those small “green killing machine”uv sterilizers with a small filter on it. Any input would be great.
 
I used a brand new Brute, put the lid on tight, and put a small powerhead to keep the water circulation slowly. I did that because when I didn't have it, the stagnant water would release terrible odors. Powerhead fixed that. Just make sure it is a tight lid, or the pure RO/DI water will pull contaminants from the air and not be 0 TDS anymore.
 
I used a brand new Brute, put the lid on tight, and put a small powerhead to keep the water circulation slowly. I did that because when I didn't have it, the stagnant water would release terrible odors. Powerhead fixed that. Just make sure it is a tight lid, or the pure RO/DI water will pull contaminants from the air and not be 0 TDS anymore.

At zero ppm it I’ll slowly rise as it sits and the water expires basically. You won’t be adding 0ppm top off but more like 15 really. My ro container is in my sump “icecap 36xl” so cleaning it is a bit hard the power head idea is a good one. Just wonder if ppl had something more
 
I used a brand new Brute, put the lid on tight, and put a small powerhead to keep the water circulation slowly. I did that because when I didn't have it, the stagnant water would release terrible odors. Powerhead fixed that. Just make sure it is a tight lid, or the pure RO/DI water will pull contaminants from the air and not be 0 TDS anymore.

This is the same as I do^.

As long as the container is covered/sealed, it shouldn't have any rise in TDS. airborne contamination is generally the root cause of rise in TDS/bacteria.

Other causes of TDS could be leaching of contaminants from the container.
 
Use the smallest container you can live with. Once made it will absorb stuff unless it is in a vac sealed non leeching container. 2 weeks in a gray brute can with lid will take it from 0 to 100 or more.
 
Use the smallest container you can live with. Once made it will absorb stuff unless it is in a vac sealed non leeching container. 2 weeks in a gray brute can with lid will take it from 0 to 100 or more.

Finally someone who actually test the ro storage water... exactly man I have it in my sump it is smaller than my other container prior but no way a small uv light with a power head hurt?? Wouldn’t necessarily take the ppm out tho correct?

Here’s my sump the ro storage is the back right
c747a26bbe964014292295cf063b4b84.jpg
88ec52c6e95727359f530b7214dc2f75.jpg
 
Hey guys I had a question about how some of you store you’re ro water and what you use to keep it to minimum ppm while sitting. I am a freak and check my ppm in my top off quite frequently. I wanted to maybe buy one of those small “green killing machine”uv sterilizers with a small filter on it. Any input would be great.

ppm TDs is not an appropriate way to gauge suitability of water, and I do not think a grey polyethylene Brute can is leaching anything significant.

A little salt dust in the air and the TDS will rise. That does not mean the water is bad.
 
Finally someone who actually test the ro storage water... exactly man I have it in my sump it is smaller than my other container prior but no way a small uv light with a power head hurt?? Wouldn’t necessarily take the ppm out tho correct?

What would you want a UV or powerhead to accomplish? I can't see it being useful.
 
The orp would go down making the water not as good rite

No. We are talking about RO/DI water, right? I'm not sure why ORP would decline, or even what level to expect in mostly pure water, but even if it does, that's not making the water "worse".
 
No. We are talking about RO/DI water, right? I'm not sure why ORP would decline, or even what level to expect in mostly pure water, but even if it does, that's not making the water "worse".

Ya I just figured if ppm is up then orp would decline naturally.
 
I’ve tested my RO/DI water in my brute a few times for TDS in the past and never seen it rise above a couple TDS. Location, location, location has a great deal to do with contamination. Basement fish room/area with little foot traffic.
 
Use the smallest container you can live with. Once made it will absorb stuff unless it is in a vac sealed non leeching container. 2 weeks in a gray brute can with lid will take it from 0 to 100 or more.
I have mine stored in a Brute that is always full of RO/DI (use about 10 gallons/week, sits at about 35 gallons all the time) and never get a rise in TDS with the lid on it. Every singe time I have tested, it has shown 0 (and I test every week or 2, because I am always worried it will go up).
 
Because I’m a freak....

Brute container. Sealed. I put a brewing airlock on top so that during fill up, it lets the pressure out. It has the ability to be released to empty what I need. Then a clear silicone tube on the side, sealed in (top to bottom), which allows me to see at a glance the water level. And then a ball valve at a height that allows the water to only go to my ATO.

With this I’ve never had any problems with TDS because the only possible air that can go in is when I want it to...... I thought about using a bladder instead of the airlock, but couldn’t find what I was looking for.
 
TDS is a means to make sure your RO/DI is functioning properly. It's really not useful for any other purpose. I never check my RO/DI water after it leaves my unit at zero TDS.
 
I have mine stored in a Brute that is always full of RO/DI (use about 10 gallons/week, sits at about 35 gallons all the time) and never get a rise in TDS with the lid on it. Every singe time I have tested, it has shown 0 (and I test every week or 2, because I am always worried it will go up).
Thats great. I wish mine was that way. I just use my brute now for QT mix water and QT top off . I use a poly tank for top off now on my main tank.
 

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