Suddenly having issues with Cyanobacteria

[rkpetersen]

I do dose Fuel once a week at 1/2 the required amount on direction and Acro Power the same way. I alternate between weeks

Probably a good idea to pause dosing until your cyano problem is solved.

 

[rkpetersen]

Which replacement kit should I get from BRS?

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-5-stage-universal-replacement-filter-kit.html

Get some extra of this:

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-bulk-deionization-resin.html

When you need one:

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/75-gpd-reverse-osmosis-membrane-dow-filmtec.html

Might also consider adding a second DI cannister:

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-chloramines-upgrade-kit.html
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/clear-refillable-cartridge-for-di-resin.html
(Or if you want to get fancy
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/single-deionization-canister-with-dm-1-dual-tds-meter.html

Also install a bypass just after the membrane with this valve, to flush away the first bit of high-TDS post-membrane water (saves wear and tear on your precious DI resin):

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/3-way-ball-valve-with-john-guest-1-4-push-connect.html

 

[CoralReefer1019]

Only the DI is indicated to be changed by a TDS rise. Others are time or flow based decisions.

What’s the best DI you recommend? I live in FL the water is hard.

 

[fishbox]

My TDS is starting to read “1” I will have to service RODI unit asap. Do I have to change out all filters? My unit has

2 Carbon Blocks
1 Sediment
DI Resin
RO Membrane

Which replacement kit should I get from BRS?

Here's a thread I have going on right now that could help you understand when and why to change what filters on your RODI unit. You'll get the jist of it off the 1st pg but reading the whole thing can help you get a good understanding of how diagnose some issues with RODI units too.

https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/330601/

 

[KJoFan]

Since I’ve made a few posts here regarding cyano and algae etc I snapped some pics of the current status in my tank. Rather than yet another new thread I’ll plop them here for visual assessment from others.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Since I’ve made a few posts here regarding cyano and algae etc I snapped some pics of the current status in my tank. Rather than yet another new thread I’ll plop them here for visual assessment from others.

Toothbrush.
Look at your ph first thing in the am, and right before lights out. Maybe mid day.
Some kalkwasser in the ato might help. Look at more snails.

 

[KJoFan]

Toothbrush.
Look at your ph first thing in the am, and right before lights out. Maybe mid day.
Some kalkwasser in the ato might help. Look at more snails.

I did the toothbrush treatment to some of the rock last water change, it all comes off fairly easily. I didn't do the rock in the photos because the blenny was hiding in it at the time. And I have scraped it off the back wall...3 times now it's comeback has slowed, but I also was using Vibrant which I've stopped for the time being. The water is staying clear, but the rusty algae is coming back on the glass more frequently.

I have been under the assumption this is just a hair algae issue...I hope? As that's easier to kick than bryopsis.

I am going to guess pH is low, as it's low in my other tank with a probe. As in...7.6 to 7.9 depending. Lows in the morning, "highs" after the photoperiod. I never have pH readings at 8.0 or above now that windows are closed full time in the house.

I do have some MarinePure spheres in one of the back chambers...if nutrients are low (maybe? maybe not?) should I pull them?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I did the toothbrush treatment to some of the rock last water change, it all comes off fairly easily. I didn't do the rock in the photos because the blenny was hiding in it at the time. And I have scraped it off the back wall...3 times now it's comeback has slowed, but I also was using Vibrant which I've stopped for the time being. The water is staying clear, but the rusty algae is coming back on the glass more frequently.

I have been under the assumption this is just a hair algae issue...I hope? As that's easier to kick than bryopsis.

I am going to guess pH is low, as it's low in my other tank with a probe. As in...7.6 to 7.9 depending. Lows in the morning, "highs" after the photoperiod. I never have pH readings at 8.0 or above now that windows are closed full time in the house.

I do have some MarinePure spheres in one of the back chambers...if nutrients are low (maybe? maybe not?) should I pull them?

Besides the tooth brush , try not to do too many things at at one or too fast. I'd bet the vibrant is one of the root causes. It has an organic carbon source and kills alge so your seeing that w the cyano and the brown stuff.

I'd honestly look at a bit of the ph kalk boost, water changes as Normal or weekly if your motivated and time.

It's just going to take a little time to get back to balance.

Yup, I said take two aspirin and call me in the morning.

Fwiw, I've worked with folks for theee pages on cyano to have them finally say, I'm using vibrant.
So it's common.

 

[KJoFan]

Besides the tooth brush , try not to do too many things at at one or too fast. I'd bet the vibrant is one of the root causes. It has an organic carbon source and kills alge so your seeing that w the cyano and the brown stuff.

I'd honestly look at a bit of the ph kalk boost, water changes as Normal or weekly if your motivated and time.

It's just going to take a little time to get back to balance.

Yup, I said take two aspirin and call me in the morning.

Fwiw, I've worked with folks for theee pages on cyano to have them finally say, I'm using vibrant.
So it's common.

After reading through this thread, that's when I quit the Vibrant, but obviously still have something going on. The cyano was kicked with Chemiclean (right or wrong) and after it went away, I've gotten more of the brown situation on the sand/areas the cyano used to occupy.

I actually had laid off water changes for a bit, but will probably do one this weekend sometime again and take the toothbrush to the remaining rocks if I can.

I will try a bit of kalk in my next ATO fill (probably due soon) and see how that goes.

I am trying to be patient with it all as I feel it just needs to get back some kind of balance, but mostly wanted to see if I was battling hair algae or the dreaded bryopsis. But, hey, the corals in there seem relatively happy (except the ones being swallowed by the algae) so...there is that at least.

 

[CoralReefer1019]

Here's a thread I have going on right now that could help you understand when and why to change what filters on your RODI unit. You'll get the jist of it off the 1st pg but reading the whole thing can help you get a good understanding of how diagnose some issues with RODI units too.

https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/330601/

here is a pic of my current DI Resin

 

[fishbox]

here is a pic of my current DI Resin

Is that the BRS color changing resin??

 

[CoralReefer1019]

Is that the BRS color changing resin??

not sure but I do think it seems exhausted

 

[fishbox]

not sure but I do think it seems exhausted

Ummm... Yeah just a little! I'm surprised that you're only getting 1 tds. I can't remember but did you confirm that you have dinos from a microscope? The reason I ask is with the DI resin being exhausted things like silicates could be seeping through which could cause diatoms.

 

[CoralReefer1019]

Ummm... Yeah just a little! I'm surprised that you're only getting 1 tds. I can't remember but did you confirm that you have dinos from a microscope? The reason I ask is with the DI resin being exhausted things like silicates could be seeping through which could cause diatoms.

I ordered BRS 4 Stage value kit, comes with DI Resin, One 1 micron sediment Filter and One 1 micron carbon block

 

[CoralReefer1019]

*UPDATE* all cyano is pretty much gone! Been doing weekly water changes of 5 gallons, stopped dosing MB7 and Vibrant. Cleaned out detritus in sump. Also replaced sediment, Carbon, DI resin and TDS is “0”

 

[Cory]

why does water changes cause outbreaks if your are removing nutrients with water changes

Because some trace elements like molybdenum for example get used up slowing its growth, and when you do a water change it brings back some molybenum and it starts to grow again.

Not only do algae/bacteria require phosphorus and nitrogen but also trace elements like iron/molybdenum/zinc. If one of them gets too low it stops growing.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Because some trace elements like molybdenum for example get used up slowing its growth, and when you do a water change it brings back some molybenum and it starts to grow again.

Not only do algae/bacteria require phosphorus and nitrogen but also trace elements like iron/molybdenum/zinc. If one of them gets too low it stops growing.

Yup.
As it turns out , it's actually salt mix dependent. It doesn't always happen.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

*UPDATE* all cyano is pretty much gone! Been doing weekly water changes of 5 gallons, stopped dosing MB7 and Vibrant. Cleaned out detritus in sump. Also replaced sediment, Carbon, DI resin and TDS is “0”

Sweeeet!!

 

[CoralReefer1019]

Yup.
As it turns out , it's actually salt mix dependent. It doesn't always happen.

I use Fritz Pro RPM Salt Mix

 

[CoralReefer1019]

Because some trace elements like molybdenum for example get used up slowing its growth, and when you do a water change it brings back some molybenum and it starts to grow again.

Not only do algae/bacteria require phosphorus and nitrogen but also trace elements like iron/molybdenum/zinc. If one of them gets too low it stops growing.

how’s does one combat this?