Sump burping
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Sod Buster
Valuable Member
An air pipe on each side of the tee. Instead of a cap with a hole drilled in it, take it up the wall under the upper cabinet and put two 90s on the top to vent it out 180 degrees down. If the turndown 90 hangs out far enough that if bubbles come out the end, they would land in the tank below. The air pipes will help very much.
Sod Buster
Valuable Member
It's a wall of tanks with durso drains. 2 tanks going into 1 drain each. It's in his classroom and needs them more quiet and less turbulent in the sumps.
WVNed
The fish are staring at me with hungry eyes.
Once you get air mixed into the water it is hard to get it out unless the water is slowed down. The bubbles simply travel with the flow. Putting a tee in does not mean the air will go up and the water down.
My first though is make a vessel out of large PVC like 6 inch as tall as you can make it. tap the drains in at the top with a tee. From the tee also place a stand pipe for the air to escape. Take the water from the bottom to the sump.
Crud would collect in it though.
Sort of like a skimmer tower.
My first though is make a vessel out of large PVC like 6 inch as tall as you can make it. tap the drains in at the top with a tee. From the tee also place a stand pipe for the air to escape. Take the water from the bottom to the sump.
Crud would collect in it though.
Sort of like a skimmer tower.
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If I put a ball valve on the drain line at the very bottom right before the sump could I close it part way to keep the drain tube full of water? This would slow the drainage, keep the tube full of water, prevent air from getting inside the tubes which would stop the burping. It would have to be tuned perfectly or the dt would overflow..... hmmm might be more problematic than helpful.
Sod Buster
Valuable Member
The ball valve is not a good idea. Back when I was doing the research 5 years ago the guys were messing around with air vent pipes built in, some configured an S trap style drain pipe to slow the water and make the air go back up the drain line, like under the sink. Holes drilled into the top of the drain to shove in rigid airline tubing to the sweet sweetspot for help. To clear the burps, a pair of pipes next to the tee, slow the pump down. If I could find my old tablet, I've got lots of screenshots I saved for this problem. I had a single drain, can't imagine 4 of them in stereo. Like Niagara falls I bet.
Sod Buster
Valuable Member
Bump the thread this evening after supper when more people are on for ideas.
The nurse ned tower of water makes sense if you have the room for a few feet of it between the tanks. You could even insulate it to help keep the noise down.
The nurse ned tower of water makes sense if you have the room for a few feet of it between the tanks. You could even insulate it to help keep the noise down.
Sod Buster
Valuable Member
I've already showed this pic to the OP in another thread. It is how I got rid of the air explosion in the sump on a durso years ago. My fingers are about at the waterline, so it was deep in the sump with some back pressure on it. It worked pretty good, small bubbles would get past the vent, but acted like a skimmer at times with foam coming out of the top where the reducer is. Yes I did waste $ putting a gate on a durso drain before I knew better. You can flame me if you need. Just something to look at to help teach out. Having a bank of tanks should be fun, not a noise distraction.
I've already showed this pic to the OP in another thread. It is how I got rid of the air explosion in the sump on a durso years ago. My fingers are about at the waterline, so it was deep in the sump with some back pressure on it. It worked pretty good, small bubbles would get past the vent, but acted like a skimmer at times with foam coming out of the top where the reducer is. Yes I did waste $ putting a gate on a durso drain before I knew better. You can flame me if you need. Just something to look at to help teach out. Having a bank of tanks should be fun, not a noise distraction.
Hmm my drain pipes go almost all be way to the bottom of the sump. Maybe 8 inches. Looks like I should cut them closer to surface. I’ll try that s tube thing too.
Supertanker
Community Member
http://gmacreef.com/return-line-plumbing-reef-aquarium-sump/
check it out. You are right I think in that if the returns are too deep they have a hard time purging air, so they should be 1" or less under the surface. But I don't know if that will help if you simply have too much air to begin with. Burps could be giant belches...
check it out. You are right I think in that if the returns are too deep they have a hard time purging air, so they should be 1" or less under the surface. But I don't know if that will help if you simply have too much air to begin with. Burps could be giant belches...
Sod Buster
Valuable Member
Let some old school reefers chime in before you get crazy cutting. You could try it on a single drain or make a mock up with a union on one line so you can make changes and perfect a method. I would start by putting in some unions so you can put the drain back together easily if needed. Another thing, the older the drain gets, it gets a little slime inside, filling in some of the voids between fittings = less turbulence.
Supertanker
Community Member
You're right let the old schoolers help...I even sent you the wrong link...not returns, you want the overflow, lol!
http://gmacreef.com/aquarium-overflows-durso-herbie-and-bean-setups/
http://gmacreef.com/aquarium-overflows-durso-herbie-and-bean-setups/
Sod Buster
Valuable Member
Yes the back pressure does make the air overcome the hydraulic pressure to expel it. Maybe a trombone end that is open to the air the whole way up. Like the 1 1/2" bigged up to 3" so a 1/2" or so of air gap is between the drain and sump water level?
KrisReef
10K Club member
Cut the vomiting pipe an inch above the sump water level, add a 90 fitting and direct the flow into a sock to reduce splash, or cut higher and expand the 90 onto a 3" fitting run a short horizontal run and then another 90 into the sump so that the 2nd 90 empties at an angle partially submerged but allowing air to escape without back pressure. Adding a sock over the end will help reduce salt splash.
This is an old thread. What grows in these tanks?
This is an old thread. What grows in these tanks?
Sod Buster
Valuable Member
He just opened up this new thread about it today, I guess he's ready for a fix. I don't see any lights, so nothing growing except his noise frustration. Some good suggestions, let's keep them coming and help him out. It's for the kids.
Mastiffsrule
Where ever you go, there you are, so be nice 2 you
I liked that idea of the vent you pictured, and running the pipes up from the tee area also.
I think krisreef was onto something. What if the vent was above the line, but I would also run the return as deep as possible in the sump to get as much back pressure.
My thoughts on the enlarged end drawing. would it results in a rushing water noise where it exits at or just below water line? Also a water fall noise inside when the water goes thru the adapter. I am picturing a waterfall scenario where the smaller pipe is the falls and the larger is the lake.
Just some thoughts
I think krisreef was onto something. What if the vent was above the line, but I would also run the return as deep as possible in the sump to get as much back pressure.
My thoughts on the enlarged end drawing. would it results in a rushing water noise where it exits at or just below water line? Also a water fall noise inside when the water goes thru the adapter. I am picturing a waterfall scenario where the smaller pipe is the falls and the larger is the lake.
Just some thoughts
Sod Buster
Valuable Member
WVNed
The fish are staring at me with hungry eyes.
As long as the flow is faster than the bubbles rise from buoyancy they will not separate out. They will just go along with the water. The tinier the bubbles are the worse this is.
Sod Buster
Valuable Member
Yes, I mix chemicals through induction, we want to avoid that for sure.
