Sump burping

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My thoughts would be we are talking about bigger bubbles. Even if it’s smaller bubbles they would still build up in the pipe until the burb comes as an air pocket Until then the air is trapped and building up.

If the vent is just above the water line and the exit is deep there may be enough back pressure to force that air up and out the vent before it gets too far down.

Again just trying to think it thru. I think until it is put into an actual application we may never know. We have any plumbing’s guys on here. They know about venting pipes.

Edit, I think the trick is to get that air our before the final 90, once it hits the 90 it’s going out
 
Last thought before the mouse comes of the wheel in my head.

I mentioned I liked you gray set up. @Sod Buster . What if you took your vent and put it just before the last 90 so air never gets into the outlet? I would maybe use a y type fitting just before the 90 and run a vent straight up., giving the air a more direct exit, easier to escape?

That’s all I got. Hope I added something useful :)
 
That mongoloid of a drain output I posted worked pretty slick. Small bubbles made it through, and you can see the green stain on the side of the valve when it foamed up and acted like a skimmer. The back pressure was right, and the flow was right. That was 1 1/4" pipe, but that low in the sump burped the air up the last pipe.
 
if you took your vent and put it just before the last 90 so air never gets into the outlet? I would maybe use a y type fitting just before the 90 and run a vent straight up

Here we are with people that can visualize stuff. A wye to the vent pipe is such a nice transition for bubbles to float up and out. Instead of the tee on my pic, a wye with a 45 on the air vent pipe is a winner. That would be the go for me. Just figure out the sump water back pressure, or drain depth, to force 7/8 of the air out of the vent pipe on the wye. I like it.
 
15542480397152784527044617308835.jpg
this is a pretty smooth transition
 
Like it. ;Smuggrin

Would you think it better to put it just before the last 90 or the way you drew it. You had the prototype so you would know better.

I can see it now. Good bye herbie,welcome the @Sod Buster . :)
 
Bubbles always try to float, so I'd rely on the depth of the drain in the sump "back pressure" to slow down the mix of air/water and force them out up the vent pipe. He never has said GPH pushing, but I had a 45g shallow with a vectra m1 pushing when i was a rookie. Slow return pump and more powerheads now.
 
I read on the other thread that a company installed this, did they have anything to say about the design?

Ideally, this should be their problem, not yours.
 
Anybody else tonight, or any more ideas?
Google for "reverse durso" and look at the images, there are some good examples out there (also on YouTube). Basically the same "venting the pipe" idea that people have been talking about.
 
Ideally, this should be their problem, not yours.

They did what they were paid for. Circulate the water from the sump through the tanks. They left things to be desired, not really a care for the sump noise or spray. The budget is gone and just trying to give the teacher some ideas to fix it. Let's all be positive about some young adults getting a experience we never had in high school.
 
They did what they were paid for. Circulate the water from the sump through the tanks. They left things to be desired, not really a care for the sump noise or spray. The budget is gone and just trying to give the teacher some ideas to fix it. Let's all be positive about some young adults getting a experience we never had in high school.
I think you misunderstood my post. I am suggesting that the OP gives the installer a call to see if they will fix this at no cost since a quiet system should be assumed with an install.

If they said they won't do any fixes, these are all great ideas. I just think it would be wise to call the installer before any modifications because they sure won't do anything after a modification.

We are all very positive and happy for the OP, in fact many people seem to be donating gear and potentially livestock. I am thinking that maybe the installer would donate the fix for such a good cause, I know that I would.
 
House plumbing needs air behind the water to flow & not gargle. Using the same theory, if you add a Tee into the sump drain line (the line causing the issue) & run a vent pipe straight up above the water line of the top most tanks- prevents any overflow issue incase of blockage. HTH
 
I don't disrespect anybody, but tonight we are not going to pass the buck to somebody that set it up with the problem we are trying to solve. If they knew all the quiet tricks, they would have implemented them into the plan. The builder is now held without trust. Help the teacher if you have advice and knowledge. The glue sniffing kid that set it up is going to scratch his head, or maybe worse trying to have concept and understand the situation.
I see a crotch adjustment and the fingers going to the nose
 
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I have found that a bigger hole on top of the durso will quiet them down. Just drill a little bigger and bigger until the sweet spot is found. If all the tanks have the same flow, I would drill them all the same size, test, drill again until the sweet spot is found. I used to run the durso until my herby and this is what I did. It was very quiet but it was only 1 tank.

I think your problem is that a small hole is more prone to let the drain suck more air down with the water. Sounds backwards but it's true. A bigger hole lets the water drain with less air. The air is left to escape without going down the drain and mixing with the water creating all the noise.
 

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