Switching from LED to Metal Halide

I have been thinking about doing a DIY LED light fixture for my new tank, and have about zero idea where to start.
There was a lot of info on Reefcentral. Try googling “diy led site:ReefCentral.com” Reef2Reef surely has some as well, but I wasn’t on here back then. The best chips have surely changed, but I’d bet most of the concepts and principles are identical.
 
There was a lot of info on Reefcentral. Try googling “diy led site:ReefCentral.com” Reef2Reef surely has some as well, but I wasn’t on here back then. The best chips have surely changed, but I’d bet most of the concepts and principles are identical.
Will do. I have Been looking around quite a bit, and a lot of the articles I am Finding are old, and as diy as I like To say I am, electronics aren’t my strong suite, and I hate To say it I would feel a lot more comfortable if I could Find one that I could Follow and maybe change just a little. Lol. Thanks!
 
Will do. I have Been looking around quite a bit, and a lot of the articles I am Finding are old, and as diy as I like To say I am, electronics aren’t my strong suite, and I hate To say it I would feel a lot more comfortable if I could Find one that I could Follow and maybe change just a little. Lol. Thanks!
Consider modifying a “black box,” or one of the cheap, no-name Chinese imports, but research a bit first. You might find a good prefab/DIY balance there.
 
I have been thinking about doing a DIY LED light fixture for my new tank, and have about zero idea where to start.
 
Consider modifying a “black box,” or one of the cheap, no-name Chinese imports, but research a bit first. You might find a good prefab/DIY balance there.
Yeah, that was actually one of the things I was thinking about doing! Thanks. I will have to sit down and read around some more.
 
Yeah, that was actually one of the things I was thinking about doing! Thanks. I will have to sit down and read around some more.

I second the black boxes. I did this to all my black boxes and it worked great while I used them. I ended up going all T5 though for even spread and spectrum.

I used Mars Aqua which you can wire up to a VDM on an Apex for control. The spectrum is more on the whiter freshwater side but once the diodes are changed it was good. However, the chips are SMD chips and are a pain to replace.

Viparspectra already has a decent layout of chips for spectrum and the diodes are much easier to replace. I could do a box in less than 20 minutes. However, the power supplies that came with the Viparspectra didn't allow me to hook to my Apex. All manual control.

If you don't mind manually setting the boxes then I would suggest Viparspectra.
 
i went from radion gen 5 to metal halide and would never go back to radions... sps much better growth over the radions... i supplement with T5 and orphek or3.
 
i went from radion gen 5 to metal halide and would never go back to radions... sps much better growth over the radions... i supplement with T5 and orphek or3.
I’m thinking about putting my 2 Radions between my 3 halides just so that I can tweak the spectrum a bit for evening viewing and sunrise/sunset.
 
I second the black boxes. I did this to all my black boxes and it worked great while I used them. I ended up going all T5 though for even spread and spectrum.

I used Mars Aqua which you can wire up to a VDM on an Apex for control. The spectrum is more on the whiter freshwater side but once the diodes are changed it was good. However, the chips are SMD chips and are a pain to replace.

Viparspectra already has a decent layout of chips for spectrum and the diodes are much easier to replace. I could do a box in less than 20 minutes. However, the power supplies that came with the Viparspectra didn't allow me to hook to my Apex. All manual control.

If you don't mind manually setting the boxes then I would suggest Viparspectra.
So I got to thinking, I have the Steve's Leds upgrade on my biocube currently, and thought to call them and see if they can get me a way to set up another set like the ones I have now, and plug into the controller I have, to use that on the new tank. So waiting for them to reply, but I think that would be a great option. But if not, I was looking at the Viparspectra, I just have been spoiled with the sunrise/set, and would like to be able to control that. Plus, the Steve's LEDs are awesome. lol.
 
i went from radion gen 5 to metal halide and would never go back to radions... sps much better growth over the radions... i supplement with T5 and orphek or3.
How high do you mount your lights? I have a giesemann spectra with two or3 bars. I’m still not sure how high to mount them. I don’t have a par meter.
 
How high do you mount your lights? I have a giesemann spectra with two or3 bars. I’m still not sure how high to mount them. I don’t have a par meter.
i would rent a par meter its your best bet
 
Will do. I have Been looking around quite a bit, and a lot of the articles I am Finding are old, and as diy as I like To say I am, electronics aren’t my strong suite, and I hate To say it I would feel a lot more comfortable if I could Find one that I could Follow and maybe change just a little. Lol. Thanks!

Heres mine. 2 channels. I think about 120 watts with the additional I’ve added since. Great pop with the royal blues, use for dusk dawn effects, supplements 4x54 watt t5hos. Similar to most except I use a current limiting resistor instead of an led driver
 

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metal halide users, how high do you have your lights mounted over the tank?
 
Did you find that you needed to run a chiller
In the summer I do but my tank is right next to a sun room. If it wasn't right beside the sun room I think I wouldn't need it. It wasn't due to the halides exclusively because my fixture also had t5s and when it was summertime I used them exclusively. Now that I have the chiller I can run my halides during summer too. The sun room is all glass and is too hard to regulate the temperature without blinds( don't have any blinds or shades)
 
metal halide users, how high do you have your lights mounted over the tank?
The distance between the MH fixture and the water surface should be a basic balance between the height of the tank, the type of reflector (some reflectors will concentrate and punch the light deep down, while others will spread the light over the system), and the wattage used (150W, 175W, 250W, 400W), basically speaking. And you can put a touch of common sense in it. People need to stop generalizing this, so they can apply the light correctly. It's hard to go wrong with halides, yet a wrong application will only make it difficult to adapt the organisms in that system, or to introduce/adapt them in the future. Normally the distance varies from 10 to 20" from the water surface for home aquariums, observing the points above.
 

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