Tank Transfer Method

[Humblefish]

so if this is the case, and I agree that it probably is, what would be the point of going through the ordeal of the tank transfer method? Wouldn't one just be better off to QT/treat for other possible problems? Why put the fish through the extra stress?
Not looking to be argumentative, just trying to better understand the benefits , if in fact, they are going into a tank where they will probably be reinfected.

If your DT already has ich but the fish have built up immunity, then doing TTM on new specimens would be for naught since they will just get infected with ich upon introduction to the DT. Because it is likely fish immune to ich can still serve as carriers of the disease. A few theronts here & there will attach inside the gills, feed and then drop off. But you (or the fish) never really notice this because it's only a few. However, a few is enough to continue the life cycle and for ich to still be present in the tank itself (as protomonts, tomonts, tomites, theronts, etc.) Ich, due to the nature of its life stages, actually lives more "off fish" than on the fish.

I would suggest a passive observation QT protocol for you, to observe for symptoms of velvet, brook, uronema, bacterial infections, etc. Those diseases are a lot more dangerous than ich. I also suggest treating with Prazipro in order to deworm: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/prazipro.247598/

 

[tigé21v]

That was pretty much my understanding, unless you were starting from scratch, or allowing your system to lay fallow for an extended period of time , you probably already have ich living in your system .
Besides treating for worms, are there any other issues one should proactively treat for?
Or just observe and get them fat and healthy?

 

[melypr1985]

That was pretty much my understanding, unless you were starting from scratch, or allowing your system to lay fallow for an extended period of time , you probably already have ich living in your system .
Besides treating for worms, are there any other issues one should proactively treat for?
Or just observe and get them fat and healthy?

observe for symptoms of velvet, brook, uronema, bacterial infections, etc

^^^ These are the heavy hitters. Watch for them and if you see signs, treat before putting them in the DT.

 

[Humblefish]

Velvet, brook, uronema, bacterial infections will all show obvious physical symptoms within one month, so I would just observe for these.

 

[tigé21v]

How long does a tank have to lay fallow for ich to be eliminated?

 

[melypr1985]

How long does a tank have to lay fallow for ich to be eliminated?

76 days to be totally sure that it's all eliminated

 

[s2nhle]

wow, great tips.

 

[BetURWrasse]

Ok so I see the write up says prazi on days 4 and 10. Is there a reason for this? I ask because I added prazi right from the start day 1.

 

[melypr1985]

Ok so I see the write up says prazi on days 4 and 10. Is there a reason for this? I ask because I added prazi right from the start day 1.

Simply to give them a bit to settle in and start eating before putting in the meds which can often have an adverse effect on appetite.

 

[BetURWrasse]

Ok. Thanks

 

[Humblefish]

Simply to give them a bit to settle in and start eating before putting in the meds which can often have an adverse effect on appetite.

^^This. You can technically begin Prazipro at anytime during TTM so long as:

1. The fish can be exposed to it for at least 24 hrs before the next transfer.
2. You allow for 5-7 days in-between rounds of treatment.
3. You don't use an ammonia reducer while Prazipro is present in the water.

So, #1 might be useful for those hesitant to dose Prazipro with known sensitive species, such as wrasses. Dose it 24 hrs before your next transfer so the fish has limited exposure to the chemical.

 

[BetURWrasse]

Thanks for your replies. About to transfer tomorrow for day 10. Everything is looking good.

 

[Humblefish]

@Rsaalman You put your transfer tanks side by side? I suggest reading this: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/aerosol-transmission.190292/

 

[BetURWrasse]

@Rsaalman You put your transfer tanks side by side? I suggest reading this: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/aerosol-transmission.190292/

Well F... Oh well I'm not starting over.

 

[melypr1985]

Well F... Oh well I'm not starting over.

You can always add a transfer or two at the end just be safe and, of course, start setting up the new tank right when your ready to do the transfer to minimize any aerosol transfer - that is, if you cant set them up farther apart.

 

[Humblefish]

Just a thought when using Prazipro in conjunction with TTM:

Since only 24 hrs in Prazipro is needed to force all the flukes to dislodge from a fish, you may be better off dosing at the tail end of your transfer. With only 24 hrs to go before making the next transfer. This will limit exposure time to the chemical, which is especially useful for known prazi sensitive species such as wrasses.

 

[Deinonych]

Just a thought when using Prazipro in conjunction with TTM:

Since only 24 hrs in Prazipro is needed to force all the flukes to dislodge from a fish, you may be better off dosing at the tail end of your transfer. With only 24 hrs to go before making the next transfer. This will limit exposure time to the chemical, which is especially useful for known prazi sensitive species such as wrasses.

This is a great suggestion. Although I rarely run into a fish that has problems, I did have a flasher wrasse earlier this year that was extremely sensitive to prazi (to the point of hiding in stress coloration and not eating). I ended up running carbon after 24 hours to remove the prazi (the wrasse fully recovered afterward), but will definitely keep this in mind the next time I have to treat flashers.

 

[jschultzbass]

When using this method, for the last 2 weeks of observation do you add in a biological filter or just stick an ammonia badge in and handle with water changes and Prime?

 

[melypr1985]

When using this method, for the last 2 weeks of observation do you add in a biological filter or just stick an ammonia badge in and handle with water changes and Prime?

When you do the last transfer it's usually into a regular QT with a power filter and all the other necessities for observation.

 

[Alexpora Corals]

To whom may concern, I would like to suggest an alternate version of the Transfer Method (Transfer Method II if I may) to eradicate Cryptocaryon irritans from new arrivals that I've had success with, in which sterilization and ammonia levels aren't a concern nor is there a large amount of water wasted. In this method instead of two buckets or aquariums you simply use 5 permanent small quarantine aquariums where you transfer every 3 days. You then start over and reuse them without contamination concerns after after 2 and half months or 72 days:

- Day 1 - Start 5 small quarantine aquariums with a small amount of inert gravel using cycled water from an established Cryptocaryon free system and then wait a week to cycle or simply add freshly mixed water and wait a month to cycle. One air pump can be used with valves to run all five. Place your fish in the first quarantine aquarium.

- Day 4 - After 72 hours transfer your fish from the first to the second quarantine aquarium with a net or other small container. This is easier to do at at night when the fish are asleep and sluggish.

- Day 7 - Repeat transfer to the third quarantine aquarium.

- Day 10 - Repeat transfer to the fourth quarantine aquarium.

- Day 13 - Repeat transfer to the fifth quarantine aquarium.

- Day 16 - Transfer to larger quarantine system (for further observation and treatment of other diseases) or optionally transfer directly to your main display aquarium.

- Day 73 - After 72 days you can safely start over again with new fish using the same water.

Please pass this information around and I hope it might help someone else.