Tanks based on Aquaforest Products:

sa6hir · Sep 7, 2016

Anirban said:
Read this..

http://aquaforest.eu/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Aquaforest_Products-Guide_EN_RGB.pdf

There are few options available with different combinations but to start with reef salt Probio S, NP Pro, A, B, E, V and depending upon need 1+2+3+, phosminus and carbon.

Thank you. Just what I was looking for.

sa6hir · Sep 7, 2016

So these products compared to using a doser. Which would be a better choice. Or is it a matter of opinion/limited space for equipment

reeferfoxx · Sep 7, 2016

I've read the product guide 10x over for at least 2 hours. The and's and or's are confusing the hell out of me. Well, especially when I get different responses for already users. I don't understand where it says use component 1+2+3 OR a, b , c and d(k?). The product guide you guys keep linking is slightly different from the product guide they link.
http://online.fliphtml5.com/tezm/bbaq/#p=6

For the SPS section they say to use Reef salt OR PB reef salt + bioS +Carbon+phosphate stuff.... Why choose the more difficult route? The easiest would be reef salt no?

I don't like the use of carbon or GFO media, do I need it??

Then it shows Component 1, 2 + 3 OR a b c k blah blah blah they loose me here

Anirban · Sep 7, 2016

sa6hir said:
So these products compared to using a doser. Which would be a better choice. Or is it a matter of opinion/limited space for equipment

Mostly they are but not all. You have to hand dose Pro Bio S, A, B, E, and V. Others you can dose through doser.

Anirban · Sep 7, 2016

reeferfoxx said:
I've read the product guide 10x over for at least 2 hours. The and's and or's are confusing the hell out of me. Well, especially when I get different responses for already users. I don't understand where it says use component 1+2+3 OR a, b , c and d(k?). The product guide you guys keep linking is slightly different from the product guide they link.
http://online.fliphtml5.com/tezm/bbaq/#p=6

For the SPS section they say to use Reef salt OR PB reef salt + bioS +Carbon+phosphate stuff.... Why choose the more difficult route? The easiest would be reef salt no?

I don't like the use of carbon or GFO media, do I need it??

Then it shows Component 1, 2 + 3 OR a b c k blah blah blah they loose me here

Hmmmm lets clear your doubts..

you can choose different way to use this method and I hope you already understand that.

So, in one way you can use their ready made 1+2+3+ dosing liquid containing everything from alkalinity, Mg, Ca, K and all other minerals or elements along with either of their reef salt or probiotic reef salt (includes probiotic bacteria and amino acid and vitamins) nothing else for minerals.

You can think this in long run become costly for a larger tank and then you actually dont buy 1+2+3+ instead you make them by mixing individual components available. Then to make those custom 1+2+3+ solution you will need component reef salt or probiotic reef salt, A, B,C, kH buffer, calcium, magnesium,mineral salt and potassium strong.

Now, this method is a probiotic and zeolite based method but if you think you can really control it tightly then you can skip GFO or carbon even you dont need zeolites. But it will be quite hard as you probably will not be able to use fuge with this ULNS system.

Anirban · Sep 7, 2016

Nice article by Jeremy.....

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/is-aquaforest-the-next-evolution-of-zeolite-use.46/

jsker · Sep 7, 2016

I agree with @Anirban

jsker · Sep 7, 2016

Anirban said:
Nice article by Jeremy.....

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/is-aquaforest-the-next-evolution-of-zeolite-use.46/

Very good read, thank you for posting the link.

Perry · Sep 7, 2016

I would also like to point out to Componenet 123 users to keep a close eye on Salinity, as it will increase with the Reef Mineral Salt additions, I don't have the calculator, but if you are not doing water changes, you need to pull some saltwater out daily, at least weekly to allow fresh water to maintain optimal and stable salinity levels. Likely a reason to stay consistent with saltwater changes

Cheers

eg8r210 · Sep 7, 2016

reeferfoxx said:
I've read the product guide 10x over for at least 2 hours. The and's and or's are confusing the hell out of me. Well, especially when I get different responses for already users. I don't understand where it says use component 1+2+3 OR a, b , c and d(k?). The product guide you guys keep linking is slightly different from the product guide they link.
http://online.fliphtml5.com/tezm/bbaq/#p=6

For the SPS section they say to use Reef salt OR PB reef salt + bioS +Carbon+phosphate stuff.... Why choose the more difficult route? The easiest would be reef salt no?

I don't like the use of carbon or GFO media, do I need it??

Then it shows Component 1, 2 + 3 OR a b c k blah blah blah they loose me here

Anirban did a good job and I will add a little more. Your question about why choose more difficult route. There is Reef salt or Probiotic salt. If you do not have a nutrient issue (No3/Po4) then you can go with the Reef salt. If you choose to fix nutrient issue or get down to ULNS then go the probiotic route. This includes Probiotic salt, -NP Pro, and Pro Bio S.

To clarify, 1+2+3+ vs ABC+K is simple. If your corals are growing at a rate that needs supplementation in addition to WC then you are handling this in one of 3 ways, manually dosing 2 part (or balling), using a doser to dose 2 part (or balling), or using a calcium reactor. What process are you currently using?

If you are manually dosing or using a doser then you should look into using 1+2+3+. Ignore everything else. If your consumption is at a rate where you are using up the 5L quickly then you have the option of mixing your own with the dry powder and Component Strong.
If you are using a calcium reactor then you continue using the CaRx and buy the Components ABC+Kalium.

These two processes get you through 99% of what is absolutely necessary to keep the reef going. If water changes are sufficient and you never see your calcium or alkalinity drop then stick with just the salt. If you need to add calcium or alkalinity then choose between 1+2+3+ and a doser or choose ABC+Kalium and a calcium reactor.

We can't answer whether you need to use carbon or GFO. Your tank will let you know. If your water is not crystal clear carbon will help. If you have a phosphate issue then GFO is the quickest way to remove outside of doing massive water changes.

reeferfoxx · Sep 7, 2016

eg8r210 said:
Anirban did a good job and I will add a little more. Your question about why choose more difficult route. There is Reef salt or Probiotic salt. If you do not have a nutrient issue (No3/Po4) then you can go with the Reef salt. If you choose to fix nutrient issue or get down to ULNS then go the probiotic route. This includes Probiotic salt, -NP Pro, and Pro Bio S.

To clarify, 1+2+3+ vs ABC+K is simple. If your corals are growing at a rate that needs supplementation in addition to WC then you are handling this in one of 3 ways, manually dosing 2 part (or balling), using a doser to dose 2 part (or balling), or using a calcium reactor. What process are you currently using?

If you are manually dosing or using a doser then you should look into using 1+2+3+. Ignore everything else. If your consumption is at a rate where you are using up the 5L quickly then you have the option of mixing your own with the dry powder and Component Strong.

If you are using a calcium reactor then you continue using the CaRx and buy the Components ABC+Kalium.

These two processes get you through 99% of what is absolutely necessary to keep the reef going. If water changes are sufficient and you never see your calcium or alkalinity drop then stick with just the salt. If you need to add calcium or alkalinity then choose between 1+2+3+ and a doser or choose ABC+Kalium and a calcium reactor.

We can't answer whether you need to use carbon or GFO. Your tank will let you know. If your water is not crystal clear carbon will help. If you have a phosphate issue then GFO is the quickest way to remove outside of doing massive water changes.

THIS(if explained correctly) makes sense to me. Thank you very much!

Robthorn · Sep 7, 2016

Looks like a cheaper zeovit which I can't argue with after looking over the book. I dose all elements separate after testing. Just a different brand.

Anirban · Sep 7, 2016

Robthorn said:
Looks like a cheaper zeovit which I can't argue with after looking over the book. I dose all elements separate after testing. Just a different brand.

Yeah cheaper and easier....

jsker · Sep 7, 2016

17 day with out a water change

Ca 450
Mg 1340
Alk 9.1
No3 4ppm
Po4 .02ppm

Perry · Sep 7, 2016

Hi Rob,
I have known you sort of for quite some time, in the Tampa forum. As mentioned above, you will see that the products are in fact more affordable than other systems available. That said, even if you price the carbon, phosphate minus, as well as other basic reefer products that are used commonly, you will find the prices are in line, or even better than other common brands out there. The Reef Salt, for example, dials in to close to NSW values, but is in line with Reef Crystals pricing, with the benefit of NSW values, those which heavy sps keepers typically prefer. Either way, so many ways to get great results, this is simply one of them, one that has benefited my tank tremendously. Are my colors perfect, heck no, but the colors are evenly spread throughout. I have moved completely over to AF products, and have confidence in all that I have used. Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions. Cheers!

eg8r210 · Sep 7, 2016

Perry said:
Hi Rob,
I have known you sort of for quite some time, in the Tampa forum. As mentioned above, you will see that the products are in fact more affordable than other systems available. That said, even if you price the carbon, phosphate minus, as well as other basic reefer products that are used commonly, you will find the prices are in line, or even better than other common brands out there. The Reef Salt, for example, dials in to close to NSW values, but is in line with Reef Crystals pricing, with the benefit of NSW values, those which heavy sps keepers typically prefer. Either way, so many ways to get great results, this is simply one of them, one that has benefited my tank tremendously. Are my colors perfect, heck no, but the colors are evenly spread throughout. I have moved completely over to AF products, and have confidence in all that I have used. Please feel free to reach out to me with any questions. Cheers!

I think you are being very modest.

Robthorn · Sep 7, 2016

Hey Perry, I hope all is well. I have seen two tanks with AF in them and they are pretty bad so I have to be a skeptic. Lots of pretty pictures on line though. I am very happy with the products I use without riding on a razors edge like Zeo type systems. Not here to plug for them so no need to mention them but I am always interested in what can help me out so I am just here asking and looking and I see a Zeovit system so far for sps keepers at least for a little less money. Other options for less advanced systems it appears as well.
I need to see how far Lake Helen is from Pinellas. I would surely like to see a nice AF tank in person. Shoot I like to see any nice tanks. You are also welcome to stop by any time you are around and chat some.
I too use a salt that tries to come as close to NSW as they can. Nobody is perfect of course.

jsker · Sep 7, 2016

About 2.5 hours depending on the time of day on I-4. You can always come to Orlando and check my tank out, or even check out my thread for the progression after I switched.