Tanks based on Aquaforest Products:

[Anirban]

I'm currently using blue bucket Red Sea and dosing 2 part with BRS dosers. Interested in switching to this. Would you just phase it in slowly using the probiotic salt? Like 10% water changes weekly for a while? Would you dose the 1+2+3+ right off the bat or add that in later as the system cycles more and more over to full AF salt water?

You can just start using the reef salt through weekly 10% water change unless you want to run ULNS. No need to add 1+2+3+ from the start and only add them if there is demand. After a month or two you can completely shift to the whole system depending upon changes.

 

[Slicktop]

Take my word ! Make the switch!Tanks based on Aquaforest Products:
https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/Tanks-based-on-Aquaforest-Products:.231650/

 

[jsker]

I'm currently using blue bucket Red Sea and dosing 2 part with BRS dosers. Interested in switching to this. Would you just phase it in slowly using the probiotic salt? Like 10% water changes weekly for a while? Would you dose the 1+2+3+ right off the bat or add that in later as the system cycles more and more over to full AF salt water?

when I switched, I started with the 1+2+3+ for 30 day then switched to the Aquaforest Reef salt. It is really based on what type of system you would like to run. Running the pro bio salt is for a ultra low nutrient system and the reef salt is for when one is trying to have nutrients.

 

[fragit]

Well like you said your tank is young. Probably not the best thing to have SPS in so early IMHO, but that's beside the point. [emoji4]

Essentially the components 1,2,3 are not for raising Alk,cal or mag but to maintain them.

Question if you were to stop dosing the component +2 (alkalinity)what would your alkalinity fall in a day??

Your most likely seeing fading color due to a nutrient deficiency. With zero nitrate you'll need to feed heavier.

What's your phosphate at? If you have an imbalance between the two then this could be your issue.

Do you see any signs of cyano bacteria?

Alk results for you mate. Yesterday morning I dosed 80mL, then tested an hour later Alk was 7.8 DKH. I held the evening dose of 80mL yesterday. Just tested all this morning at 0700 alk is 7.3 DKH. Correct me if I'm wrong but this mornings 7.3 is better for ULNS? I think I'm going to change my dosing routine and dose in the evening rather than the morning. And I should probably dose 80mL daily rather than 160mL. Any problems with doing that, that you all can think of?

 

[Slicktop]

Just added fresh air line to protein skimmer, using AF reef Salt and components 123 for 3 months.

 

[Perry]

Just added fresh air line to protein skimmer, using AF reef Salt and components 123 for 3 months.

Sweet tank, very colorful

 

[Perry]

Alk results for you mate. Yesterday morning I dosed 80mL, then tested an hour later Alk was 7.8 DKH. I held the evening dose of 80mL yesterday. Just tested all this morning at 0700 alk is 7.3 DKH. Correct me if I'm wrong but this mornings 7.3 is better for ULNS? I think I'm going to change my dosing routine and dose in the evening rather than the morning. And I should probably dose 80mL daily rather than 160mL. Any problems with doing that, that you all can think of?

I strive for 6.8-7.0 personally, I have experienced burnt tips on certain stags when my levels went above 8.3dkh. So 7.3 is a good target, I prefer a bit lower so that if I had an increase of a point or so, I would not get into the danger zone for my tank. Cheers

 

[Slicktop]

Thanks Perry, this pic is from cell phone, I wish I could upload better quality to show colors better. I did that upload from cell phone app. Any suggestions ?

 

[Perry]

As @fragit stated a couple of post previous the Pro bio S should be refrigerated. @Perry and others I would like your input

I little back ground. We had a previous conversation and I understood that I would keep my Pro Bio S at 78 degrees and below i would be fine not refrigerating it. So I has the wild idea to dilute the Pro bio S and try to auto dose it in to my system. I also have a nano power head stirring the mixture. Since doing this I have had a tank crash and lost a few corals. This is my fault for try something new

Here is my questions
What effect does the Pro bio S have when overdosed? I always have to watch my phosphates and nitrates since I feed heavy. A bacteria bloom would likely occur, where the water gets cloudy, you would know it for sure. If this happens, be prepared to do a water change ASAP.
What effect does the Pro bio S have if the bacteria is not stored in the refrigerator? As I understand, the bacteria does not require refrigeration at all, I would assume 78 degrees being a good temp to keep at minimum. I personally refrigerate, just old habits that never died from running zeovit. If the bacteria was to say spoil, I think that you would know by the smell it gives off, it would be noticeable. The effects, probably dead bacteria, so I am sure this would elevate nutrients for sure.

Another question
I also diluted the NP Pro fro the reason the supplier did not have a 2000ml dosing size of the NP Pro so I diluted the 50ml Np Pro with 2000 ml of ro/di.

I also run a small amount of bio pellets.

Have at it

edit: I am also dealing with mad red cayno again

Cyano usually happens twice per year for me, I normally associate it to the times per year that windows are opened more frequently. In a closed environment, I would suspect imbalance between N&P would be my first guess. When I ran BP, I had bouts of cyano, I believe it is the carbon source that is lowering N faster than P and the result is the imbalanced Redfield Ratio. I was never a big fan of them for this reason. I would evaluate the system, see if there is a possibility at getting biological media expanded in the system, and perhaps pulling the BP, as NP Pro is really a liquid polymer, and it is tested and proven with great results at the lab. You could also run Phosphate Minus to help reduce P, and or run the stack method in place of the BP's. This would give you more wiggle room with fish feedings. Either way, keep me updated

 

[Perry]

Thanks Perry, this pic is from cell phone, I wish I could upload better quality to show colors better. I did that upload from cell phone app. Any suggestions ?

I just purchased the Samsung 7, as it has Raw capabilities and Auto White Balance features, I have it in a water proof case too, get ready for some cool pics and videos soon, lol... I have always used my DSLR camera, then adjusted in Picassa with White Balance. I am however excited to mess around with my new phone, just got it yesterday

 

[fragit]

I strive for 6.8-7.0 personally, I have experienced burnt tips on certain stags when my levels went above 8.3dkh. So 7.3 is a good target, I prefer a bit lower so that if I had an increase of a point or so, I would not get into the danger zone for my tank. Cheers

Thanks @Perry for the feedback I am going to try and keep my levels where they are. I just dosed 40mL of all three components. Gonna test everything in an hour or so. I will post my results. I did not dose any pro bio or NP this morning, and have been feeding heavy. Stay tuned.

 

[jsker]

Cyano usually happens twice per year for me, I normally associate it to the times per year that windows are opened more frequently. In a closed environment, I would suspect imbalance between N&P would be my first guess. When I ran BP, I had bouts of cyano, I believe it is the carbon source that is lowering N faster than P and the result is the imbalanced Redfield Ratio. I was never a big fan of them for this reason. I would evaluate the system, see if there is a possibility at getting biological media expanded in the system, and perhaps pulling the BP, as NP Pro is really a liquid polymer, and it is tested and proven with great results at the lab. You could also run Phosphate Minus to help reduce P, and or run the stack method in place of the BP's. This would give you more wiggle room with fish feedings. Either way, keep me updated

Thank you for your reply, will do. I stopped the Np Pro and pro bi s and I will start running the phosphate minu again. So to confirm, stop running the bio pellets and run the NP pro and Pro Bio S? I will wait two week and update then

 

[Perry]

Thank you for your reply, will do. I stopped the Np Pro and pro bi s and I will start running the phosphate minu again. So to confirm, stop running the bio pellets and run the NP pro and Pro Bio S? I will wait two week and update then

Yes, but also get some biological media going before going offline with the pellets. I would imagine Seachem Matrix or Siporax would be ideal, as the Life Bio Fil won't likely be available until mid December. It will likely sell fast too. That said, Siporax my first choice, and Matrix next. With Bio Pellets, dosing NP Pro would not be necessary, as it would be redundant as a carbon source. Pro Bio S will be ok with use of Bio Pellets. For me, they are not stable like biological media becomes. This is the best route I feel to compliment the AF Probiotic based system in it's entirety. It is really difficult to know how well Bio Pellets will process nutrients, they seem to do well with nitrates, but not so great with phosphates, as I understand, most Bio Pellet users typically still run GFO, so yes returning to the use of Phosphate Minus under the current routine would likely help in balancing nutrients. If I were to guess, phosphates are reading where nitrates are low if present at all. Just a guess though.

 

[fragit]

So I checke my alk first thing this morning and it was 7.3, added 40mL of all three components. Just checked all levels almost 2 hours after dosing. Current levels are.
Alk 7.6 dkh
Calc 440
Mag 1320
Nitrates still 0

Definitely going to start dosing less. I was really surprised that such a low dose brought the alk up so high. Do the components take a while to act or diffuse? Now I'm starting to wonder if my dosing brought my alk up too high. However every time I checked it was in the 7s. And yes I'm using my Red Sea pro test kits correctly[emoji6].

 

[SewerynAquaforest]

@fragit please remember that stability will be always one of most important factor in our hobby. So if you have a chance to dose component 1,2,3+ by dosing pumps, program the dosing in few part. 8-12 times by day will be great. I heard about people's that add ones by day. In some tanks daily drop of kh could be 1-1,5 dkh. So in this case you have big swing in kh every day. If you will dose many times during the day (and night ) you will have more stability.

 

[jsker]

Yes, but also get some biological media going before going offline with the pellets. I would imagine Seachem Matrix or Siporax would be ideal, as the Life Bio Fil won't likely be available until mid December. It will likely sell fast too. That said, Siporax my first choice, and Matrix next. With Bio Pellets, dosing NP Pro would not be necessary, as it would be redundant as a carbon source. Pro Bio S will be ok with use of Bio Pellets. For me, they are not stable like biological media becomes. This is the best route I feel to compliment the AF Probiotic based system in it's entirety. It is really difficult to know how well Bio Pellets will process nutrients, they seem to do well with nitrates, but not so great with phosphates, as I understand, most Bio Pellet users typically still run GFO, so yes returning to the use of Phosphate Minus under the current routine would likely help in balancing nutrients. If I were to guess, phosphates are reading where nitrates are low if present at all. Just a guess though.

I have the marine pure bio balls in the sump now, then I will pull the bio pellets and dose the pro bio and Np pro and I should be good?

 

[fragit]

@fragit please remember that stability will be always one of most important factor in our hobby. So if you have a chance to dose component 1,2,3+ by dosing pumps, program the dosing in few part. 8-12 times by day will be great. I heard about people's that add ones by day. In some tanks daily drop of kh could be 1-1,5 dkh. So in this case you have big swing in kh every day. If you will dose many times during the day (and night ) you will have more stability.

Yes I know, and a doser is on my list. And one reason I'm not sure what's going on. I had been manually dosing BRS two part with no problems and having 24hr swings from around 8dkh to 7.3dkh. I'm wondering if that the components are just more concentrated. Anyway I plan on getting a doser in the next few weeks. I will be on paternity leave for the next three weeks. We are going to the hospital for my wife to have labor induced tomorrow. After we and the baby are home I'm going to split the doses up more during the day. And get my doser ordered. I've been looking for one used here but have not had any luck yet. I would like a GHL or Kaeomer stand alone 3 head if anybody has one.

 

[bowen1022]

The only way for me to dial back dosing is to completely stop because I only have a 25 gallon tank

You know every tank is different. I do a lot by observation. I know this doesn't help you lol but it's like a cook trying to explain his lack of following a recipe to the letter.

With my tank I'm supposed to use 4 drops of np pro and bio s.... I use 3

With the energy I use 3 not 4
With build I use all 4
With vitality and amino mix I use 2 every other day not 4
I feed heavy on the coral food and fish food.
If my colors start to fade I either feed more or I cut back for a day on the np/ bio to maybe 2 drops that day...
It's really kinda touch and go for me.

I've had a lot of success with Aquaforest products and some absolutely sick growth!

Patience and persistence.... meticulous testing and you will get in tune to the heartbeat of your tank . [emoji4]

My build thread

The 120 has been Re-Fired!!!
https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/The-120-has-been-Re-Fired!!!.233775/

 

[120reefkeeper]

The only way for me to dial back dosing is to completely stop because I only have a 25 gallon tank

Then skip a day... that's what I'd do [emoji6]

 

[bowen1022]

I decided to do just that lol