Tanks based on Aquaforest Products:

[hotnickz07]

Well that's not good news [emoji20] Maybe we can help put the pieces back together.... no pun intended.

I'd like to focus on one of the first things you said about suspecting a faulty heater... what happened??

I find in most cases unless something absolutely catastrophic takes place , it can be many small things that lead up to things going bad.

I say this , because i saw some moisture inside. This usually means that it leaked. Besides that, i really have no clue what else it can be. I have been doing pretty large water changes recently or at least for the last 2 months to get all the copper out. Since i was OD copper between Ballin, Energy and Micro E. I have stoped Micro E, and just continued energy and ballin. However im doing only 1 drop EOD of it, when i should be using 2. Also, i have removed gfo and carbon.

 

[Perry]

I say this , because i saw some moisture inside. This usually means that it leaked. Besides that, i really have no clue what else it can be. I have been doing pretty large water changes recently or at least for the last 2 months to get all the copper out. Since i was OD copper between Ballin, Energy and Micro E. I have stoped Micro E, and just continued energy and ballin. However im doing only 1 drop EOD of it, when i should be using 2. Also, i have removed gfo and carbon.

Hi Jorge,
I personally think not having carbon may lead to some issues, particularily if you are using the Probiotic Program. Every system out there that is a bac driven system requires active carbon, even if run passively. The contaminants that can be exposed to our tanks is more than we see, dust, detergents, aerosols, our hands, many different unsuspecting chemicals that can wreak havoc. I would go back online with well rinsed carbon ASAP if it were my tank, assuming a faulty heater could have caused this, active carbon could have absorbed some of the toxins released. GFO is not necessary, unless you have PO4 readings. First things first, water change. Next, get some carbon even if in a sock into your tank, hopefully this will halt any chain events unfolding in the reef. Next, KISS.... Do this until you are certain you see encrusting or tip growth on corals. Alk can change quickly, I should know as I too have had a bout of issues regarding tip burn from alk spike, so go slow, focus on stability, be consistent with feeding. Remember, light changes can cause corals to increase mineral absorption or decrease, based on PAR output, so this will influence change in alk, increases will most certainly irritate corals. I have been testing alk everyday for weeks now, I make adjustments each day, this is my plan until I heal from my alk spike. I suspect I will see gradual increases as the corals heal. Fortunately, I am only dealing with about 6 corals out of 60, so not too concerned. As far as biology, keep to the plan, your tank will bounce back in no time at all

 

[hotnickz07]

Hi Jorge,
I personally think not having carbon may lead to some issues, particularily if you are using the Probiotic Program. Every system out there that is a bac driven system requires active carbon, even if run passively. The contaminants that can be exposed to our tanks is more than we see, dust, detergents, aerosols, our hands, many different unsuspecting chemicals that can wreak havoc. I would go back online with well rinsed carbon ASAP if it were my tank, assuming a faulty heater could have caused this, active carbon could have absorbed some of the toxins released. GFO is not necessary, unless you have PO4 readings. First things first, water change. Next, get some carbon even if in a sock into your tank, hopefully this will halt any chain events unfolding in the reef. Next, KISS.... Do this until you are certain you see encrusting or tip growth on corals. Alk can change quickly, I should know as I too have had a bout of issues regarding tip burn from alk spike, so go slow, focus on stability, be consistent with feeding. Remember, light changes can cause corals to increase mineral absorption or decrease, based on PAR output, so this will influence change in alk, increases will most certainly irritate corals. I have been testing alk everyday for weeks now, I make adjustments each day, this is my plan until I heal from my alk spike. I suspect I will see gradual increases as the corals heal. Fortunately, I am only dealing with about 6 corals out of 60, so not too concerned. As far as biology, keep to the plan, your tank will bounce back in no time at all

Hey Perry thanks for your help bud. As far as the carbom, i literally just took it offline . However i will take your advise and run it again. Funny thing is that i wont be able to pick up any media bags till Thursday, so in a actual sock it is.. lol. Hope this is ok for the time being. As far as water changes, i have been cranking then out every week. 10 to 15 g on a 62g tank so... pretty good imo. I will halt dosing for now, untill tank settles once again. Thanks brother

 

[jsker]

Might need to talk to you about this whole 'Aquaforest' for the new tank.

Run it, i have been very happy with the results.

 

[jsker]

Hey Perry thanks for your help bud. As far as the carbom, i literally just took it offline . However i will take your advise and run it again. Funny thing is that i wont be able to pick up any media bags till Thursday, so in a actual sock it is.. lol. Hope this is ok for the time being. As far as water changes, i have been cranking then out every week. 10 to 15 g on a 62g tank so... pretty good imo. I will halt dosing for now, untill tank settles once again. Thanks brother

What type of carbon we're you using?

 

[helen ann]

Run it, i have been very happy with the results.

uh huh ... come on down and show me.
goodness there is so much stuff to use

 

[hotnickz07]

What type of carbon we're you using?

Aquaforest. I use all their stuff

 

[fragit]

So I still can't seem to show any nitrates in my system with Res Sea Pro kit. I've been feeding like crazy for the last week. I added 3 Lyretail Anthias last week, one didn't make it. And I've been feeding like 6 times a day. ProBio dose is 2 drops daily. Do you guys think I should cut down to 1 drop or even stop? I'm still dosing Aminos, Vitality, Build and Energy every other night dosing 4 drops of each in my 150 total volume system. Last week I also took out all the Cheato from my fuge. All that is in there is some feather Caulerpa which I think may have just gone sexual. I've never seen that happen in 15 years. I've always read about it. I'm not sure it did but it's possible. Any way how can I get my nitrates up? Last check phosphates 2 days ago was 0.012 with Hanna ULR.

 

[Perry]

Hello,
Yes, you can cut down on dose of NP Pro and Pro Bio S, sounds like your system is excellent at processesing nutrients, your approach of feeding is exactly what I would do. I have heard of some dosing nitrate, just be careful if you do. I know a fellow reefer who used to take skimmate collected and feed his corals at night, this too may help lift nutrients. Cheers

 

[jsker]

Aquaforest. I use all their stuff

Same here, is was wondering if you were using a different carbon.

 

[domination2580]

Salty Supply is no longer carrying the line in their online store. According to Chris they have transferred the products to BRS website.

Brs only has the small bucket and our of stock for 22. No 25 though...

 

[fragit]

Brs only has the small bucket and our of stock for 22. No 25 though...

Check Amazon, they don't have the entire line. But some stuff there was cheaper than Salty Supply or BRS. I'm not sure why it was cheaper but it was.

 

[bowen1022]

I know part of this was kind of covered by Fragit and Perry but I have few questions.
First, when I carbon dose (NP Pro, Pro Bio F, or even Red Sea NOPOX) I get this weird brown algae that almost looks like diatoms but it goes away at night; I am assuming it is spirulina which is similar to cyano but doesnt grow in mats. Does anyone know what causes this?
Next, my corals are looking a little pale and I feel like they could use some more nutrients. Currently I am running AF Carbon and AF Phosphate Minus in a reactor (no zeo), dosing one drop of Pro Bio S/day and alternating one drop of AEBV a day (for example Amino one day, Energy the next day, Build the next) My nutrient levels PO4: below 0.03ppm (can really register on salifert test) and NO3: 1ppm. So after reading Fragit and Perry's posts I realized my options are NO3 dosing or skimmer feeding? I dont really want to raise PO4 much because from my understanding PO4 is the least used in photosynthesis by corals so thus needed the least but still needed to some degree.
Third, what is the point of achieving Ultra low NO3 and PO4 if it starves corals? I feel dumb for not researching enough about this but it is a concern I have. People never really give insight about what ultra low even means. Idk maybe its just me being ignorant.
Finally what are your nutrient levels?

Im sorry if this sounds like a bunch of crap jammed together lol

 

[fragit]

I know part of this was kind of covered by Fragit and Perry but I have few questions.
First, when I carbon dose (NP Pro, Pro Bio F, or even Red Sea NOPOX) I get this weird brown algae that almost looks like diatoms but it goes away at night; I am assuming it is spirulina which is similar to cyano but doesnt grow in mats. Does anyone know what causes this?
Next, my corals are looking a little pale and I feel like they could use some more nutrients. Currently I am running AF Carbon and AF Phosphate Minus in a reactor (no zeo), dosing one drop of Pro Bio S/day and alternating one drop of AEBV a day (for example Amino one day, Energy the next day, Build the next) My nutrient levels PO4: below 0.03ppm (can really register on salifert test) and NO3: 1ppm. So after reading Fragit and Perry's posts I realized my options are NO3 dosing or skimmer feeding? I dont really want to raise PO4 much because from my understanding PO4 is the least used in photosynthesis by corals so thus needed the least but still needed to some degree.
Third, what is the point of achieving Ultra low NO3 and PO4 if it starves corals? I feel dumb for not researching enough about this but it is a concern I have. People never really give insight about what ultra low even means. Idk maybe its just me being ignorant.
Finally what are your nutrient levels?

Im sorry if this sounds like a bunch of crap jammed together lol

First I'm not sure it matters or not really. But, build and energy are meant to be dosed together one night and aminos and vitality together the next. The point of ULNSs is that the hobbiest can control more readily the effects of nutrients. For example through dosing you can get deeper richer colors or more pastel colors in your corals. It also enables the hobbiest to more closely match nutrient levels found on a reef that is dominated by SPS corals. Lagoons where a lot of LPS and NPS corals, gorgonions and to an extent soft corals typically will have higher nutrients. An atoll or reef crest typically lower nutrients.

In my system my nutrients are out of wack. I have zero nitrates, and some phosphates. This is backwards. Ideally I would like to have my nitrates somewhere between 2-5 while having my phosphates where they are at now which is 0.012. You could probably bring your nitrates up a little bit. How many total gallons is your system?

 

[Perry]

Hello Bowen,
To answer some of your questions, the brown dusting associated with carbon dosing is usually due to bacteria forming on glass, walls, sand, and rock. The bacteria is likely working on laden nutrients bound within, so it appears this way, over the course of time it begins to go away, but yes more predominate during the day, and less at night. As far as ULNS, I think @fragit made that more clear. The system takes time, I have been using almost a year, and I still see the brown deposits. The key to this system is to ehance your biological capabilities and for the system based on bacteria strains to do their job, with NP Pro as a fuel source to help grow bacteria. Having low or Ultra Low nutrients gives the user freedom to feed more and mimic the real reef conditions you see on stony reefs. The key is to stay the course and be patient, test but let your test kit not guide you falsely, observation is key in the hobby. Cheers

 

[jsker]

Just updated the 1+2+3+ recipe conversion chart to include salt conversion also. PM me with a E-mail and I will send the working copy of the excel sheet.

 

[bowen1022]

First I'm not sure it matters or not really. But, build and energy are meant to be dosed together one night and aminos and vitality together the next. The point of ULNSs is that the hobbiest can control more readily the effects of nutrients. For example through dosing you can get deeper richer colors or more pastel colors in your corals. It also enables the hobbiest to more closely match nutrient levels found on a reef that is dominated by SPS corals. Lagoons where a lot of LPS and NPS corals, gorgonions and to an extent soft corals typically will have higher nutrients. An atoll or reef crest typically lower nutrients.

In my system my nutrients are out of wack. I have zero nitrates, and some phosphates. This is backwards. Ideally I would like to have my nitrates somewhere between 2-5 while having my phosphates where they are at now which is 0.012. You could probably bring your nitrates up a little bit. How many total gallons is your system?

Hello Bowen,
To answer some of your questions, the brown dusting associated with carbon dosing is usually due to bacteria forming on glass, walls, sand, and rock. The bacteria is likely working on laden nutrients bound within, so it appears this way, over the course of time it begins to go away, but yes more predominate during the day, and less at night. As far as ULNS, I think @fragit made that more clear. The system takes time, I have been using almost a year, and I still see the brown deposits. The key to this system is to ehance your biological capabilities and for the system based on bacteria strains to do their job, with NP Pro as a fuel source to help grow bacteria. Having low or Ultra Low nutrients gives the user freedom to feed more and mimic the real reef conditions you see on stony reefs. The key is to stay the course and be patient, test but let your test kit not guide you falsely, observation is key in the hobby. Cheers

Thank you for your input guys! I have been wondering what is the nutrient difference between the 'pastel' and the richer colors? Also Fragit are you going with dosing Sodium Nitrate or Potassium Nitrate for elevating? Im thinking about getting nitrates to around 2.5ppm. My total water volume is only 25 gallons.

 

[fragit]

Honestly @bowen1022, I'm not sure. So far I'm just trying to get them up by feeding heavy and removing my Cheato which was a very large amount. That was only a week ago so it's going to take a little while for things to change. I've also dropped my ProbioS and NP Pro dose to one drop per day. I'm gonna see how that goes this coming week. If no change I will probably start to dose those every other day. I've also been not running filter socks all the time. I need to research about the potassium nitrate anyway so that is a little ways off if I did decide to go that route.

 

[120reefkeeper]

Just updated the 1+2+3+ recipe conversion chart to include salt conversion also. PM me with a E-mail and I will send the working copy of the excel sheet.

Awesome! [emoji3][emoji3]

 

[eg8r210]

Third, what is the point of achieving Ultra low NO3 and PO4 if it starves corals? I feel dumb for not researching enough about this but it is a concern I have. People never really give insight about what ultra low even means. Idk maybe its just me being ignorant.
Finally what are your nutrient levels?

Im sorry if this sounds like a bunch of crap jammed together lol

From what I can tell, people are big into ULNS do it because they want to control the color of the coral. Zeovit people LOVE the pastels. Many of the corals I see from AF are pastel in color which I really don't care for. I find people who are this successful have a strong control over the coloration of the coral and some get amazing colors by adding back exactly what they need to get the coloration they are looking for. For me I like the idea of ULNS to rid of unwanted algae and such and then dose back in the nitrates to get the coloration, or start dosing potassium/iodide/etc to bring out specific coloration.

These are very advanced levels and I have seen a few people get their tanks this sterile only to make a mistake and lose a ton of coral. It was explained to me in terms that I found very easy to understand. When you go to extremes like this with ULNS or the opposite and go to extremes like Red Sea (running very high alk around 12) you are walking a tight rope over the grand canyon. One small mistake might mean death. On the contrary if you run alk 7-9 dkh, run some nutrients like no3 around 3-5 and po4 around .03-.05 then it is like walking on a highway. It takes a lot to push you off the road and recovery isn't near as threatening as falling off a tightrope.

Hope this generalization helps.