Tanks based on Aquaforest Products:

[domination2580]

I'm still getting 1600 mag on fresh salt

 

[jason2459]

I'm still getting 1600 mag on fresh salt

Guess you wont have to worry about dosing Mg. That wont hurt anything. Assuming accurate.

 

[domination2580]

Guess you wont have to worry about dosing Mg. That wont hurt anything. Assuming accurate.

I've done I'd say about 8 tests on fresh mixed saltwater...all ended up the same 1600...so I think it's safe to call it accurate..

 

[jason2459]

At least precise

 

[domination2580]

At least precise

I even used a friend's test kit, same red sea and came out the same...we tested my tank water and fresh water twice both came to about the same...

 

[jason2459]

I even used a friend's test kit, same red sea and came out the same...we tested my tank water and fresh water twice both came to about the same...

FWIW, myself and another forum member did a little test and shipped back and forth samples of water and test kits both RedSea Mg and Salifert Mg. The RedSea Mg was precise giving the same results for both of us but inaccurate when compared to Salifert and an ICP test done on that sample.

 

[fragit]

I even used a friend's test kit, same red sea and came out the same...we tested my tank water and fresh water twice both came to about the same...

Have you seen the thread about RedSea having a recall on some of their Alkalinity reagents? You may want to shoot them an email and inquire about the Mg tests and if there have been any other reported issues. I have been finding your results very interesting.

 

[jason2459]

Have you seen the thread about RedSea having a recall on some of their Alkalinity reagents? You may want to shoot them an email and inquire about the Mg tests and if there have been any other reported issues. I have been finding your results very interesting.

My experience with its inaccuracies span many many years and multiple kits. Again, I'm perfectly fine assuming your result is accurate enough and wont hurt anything.

http://reef2reef.com/threads/big-3-...os-elos-salifert-api-hanna-triton-awt.234660/

 

[Acronuts]

Its been a little while since my last post and wanted to get my thoughts down as I continue on this journey.
I picked up 7 Bartlett anthias and I have been feeding the fish twice a day.
Formula one and two small pellets in morning then alternating days with mysid, lifeline and reef mix.
Along with using the probiotic reef salt I am still dosing AF products ABEV, Np Pro and Bio S.
Once I reached 6 drops per day I noticed I was getting red cyan bloom. No biggy just means I have excess nutrients in my tank.
Here is what I started to implement in order to get rid of excess nutrients.
1. 10% weekly water changes
2. I need to change my feeding schedule from 2x a day to twice every other day. With single feedings at least daily.
3. With the Np Pro and Bio S I have cut the dosing in half to 3 drops per day.
4. With the AF Amino - Builder - Energy - Vitamins I have done the same 3 drops per day. Alternating days with no additions on Sat/Sun
I must admit that even with the cyano creeping up in certain places all corals appear to be going strong and happy. However I certainly don't want to have this bacteria growing happily in my tank. As a last resort I purchased the Boyd's red cyanobacteria but would prefer not to use it.
Fish of course are fat, happy and corals have great PE!
I have been gluing frags onto the rocks in their permanent locations on my reef. Yes it takes me awhile but again it's the whole acclimating to my lighting and tank conditions etc etc.
The process I have taken before gluing onto rocks is a bit different than what I have done in the past but I am happy that I have decided to go this route.
The selected frags get dipped in coral rx for 20 mins. While they are bathing in coral rx I prep new, never used frag plugs. After the bathing is done each frag is then cut from its current plug at the base. I check for additional eggs or anything odd by using a tooth brush and brushing the bottom of frag. From here I rinse in fresh tank water then place frag on new plug. Place frag in a holding container to let the glue set then its time to transfer to DT and glue it in its new location.
Interesting I have found odd critters with the occasional bristle worm. Finding these critters lets me know that dipping should be in at least 2 to 3 stages. 1st time after you purchase is a must. 2nd time dipping before you glue and place on rock is also a must especially if you don't use a quarantine tank.
Now for some good stuff!
The new scores!!!
TSA Bubble gum digi


TSA Rainbow Fusion


Good ole ORA and one of my old time fav's Pearlberry


Princess Peach


Not a great picture but Christmas Mirabilis - This has awesome PE from day one!


Cool shot from left side towards bottom with sponge growth next to baby hammer


Then the rest are pics of happy campers in their new locations

 

[jsker]

Its been a little while since my last post and wanted to get my thoughts down as I continue on this journey.
I picked up 7 Bartlett anthias and I have been feeding the fish twice a day.
Formula one and two small pellets in morning then alternating days with mysid, lifeline and reef mix.
Along with using the probiotic reef salt I am still dosing AF products ABEV, Np Pro and Bio S.
Once I reached 6 drops per day I noticed I was getting red cyan bloom. No biggy just means I have excess nutrients in my tank.
Here is what I started to implement in order to get rid of excess nutrients.
1. 10% weekly water changes
2. I need to change my feeding schedule from 2x a day to twice every other day. With single feedings at least daily.
3. With the Np Pro and Bio S I have cut the dosing in half to 3 drops per day.
4. With the AF Amino - Builder - Energy - Vitamins I have done the same 3 drops per day. Alternating days with no additions on Sat/Sun
I must admit that even with the cyano creeping up in certain places all corals appear to be going strong and happy. However I certainly don't want to have this bacteria growing happily in my tank. As a last resort I purchased the Boyd's red cyanobacteria but would prefer not to use it.
Fish of course are fat, happy and corals have great PE!
I have been gluing frags onto the rocks in their permanent locations on my reef. Yes it takes me awhile but again it's the whole acclimating to my lighting and tank conditions etc etc.
The process I have taken before gluing onto rocks is a bit different than what I have done in the past but I am happy that I have decided to go this route.
The selected frags get dipped in coral rx for 20 mins. While they are bathing in coral rx I prep new, never used frag plugs. After the bathing is done each frag is then cut from its current plug at the base. I check for additional eggs or anything odd by using a tooth brush and brushing the bottom of frag. From here I rinse in fresh tank water then place frag on new plug. Place frag in a holding container to let the glue set then its time to transfer to DT and glue it in its new location.
Interesting I have found odd critters with the occasional bristle worm. Finding these critters lets me know that dipping should be in at least 2 to 3 stages. 1st time after you purchase is a must. 2nd time dipping before you glue and place on rock is also a must especially if you don't use a quarantine tank.
Now for some good stuff!
The new scores!!!
TSA Bubble gum digi


TSA Rainbow Fusion


Good ole ORA and one of my old time fav's Pearlberry


Princess Peach


Not a great picture but Christmas Mirabilis - This has awesome PE from day one!


Cool shot from left side towards bottom with sponge growth next to baby hammer


Then the rest are pics of happy campers in their new locations

Each system is different and it looks like thing are doing well with your system.

I have been feeding twice a day, just backed off the amount that I feed. I do run a higher nutrient system though.

I do have some different types a algae in my DT and it seems the more I try to control the algae the less my system is happy

 

[Acronuts]

Each system is different and it looks like thing are doing well with your system.

I have been feeding twice a day, just backed off the amount that I feed. I do run a higher nutrient system though.

I do have some different types a algae in my DT and it seems the more I try to control the algae the less my system is happy

Thx for the encouragement jsker
I agree each system is different.

A quick question doesn't red cyanobacteria also show up where water is less? I thought I read that somewhere long ago.

 

[120reefkeeper]

Well I guess I'll post a few! Lol

I want to add that some of these pictures your about to see are before and afters !


This is before Aquaforest... I saved this poor coral...

After a couple of weeks of Aquaforest. It actually looks even better now!!

Before Aquaforest.... another Aquaforest save!!

After a couple of weeks on Aquaforest!

The following pictures are some of the more recent ones taken.

This is a quick cell phone pic I took just the other day...

All Aquaforest all the time my friends! [emoji4]

 

[jsker]

Thx for the encouragement jsker
I agree each system is different.

A quick question doesn't red cyanobacteria also show up where water is less? I thought I read that somewhere long ago.

I do not understand the less part of the question? I just finished with my red cyano battle three weeks ago. I have had an ongoing cyano issue for months and was trying different methods of battling naturally and with tank adjustments. Then I finally pull the trigger and nuke the tank with red slime remover. The tank is free of slime now. I think the term used in reefing "Nuke" make us all nervous if we have not done a nuke job before. After doing my first treatment I would not hesitate doing one again if and when I have another outbreak. Lost some good frags by waiting

You will read and some will recommend all kinds of things and I have tried some of the suggestions. My observation is once a system has red slime outbreak it is hard to get rid of. The way to get rid of the red slime is starving it, this also starves the rest of the system and that is not good for a long term. This is where the removes come in and focus on starving the red slime. I also think the red slime bacteria can be introduced into the system via new frags, rocks or a sell of a conch, snail etc and then red slime grows depending on the nutrient levels in our systems. Like my system I run higher nutrient levels and when I get an outbreak the red cyano really has a good time growing all over everything

 

[Acronuts]

I do not understand the less part of the question? I just finished with my red cyano battle three weeks ago. I have had an ongoing cyano issue for months and was trying different methods of battling naturally and with tank adjustments. Then I finally pull the trigger and nuke the tank with red slime remover. The tank is free of slime now. I think the term used in reefing "Nuke" make us all nervous if we have not done a nuke job before. After doing my first treatment I would not hesitate doing one again if and when I have another outbreak. Lost some good frags by waiting

You will read and some will recommend all kinds of things and I have tried some of the suggestions. My observation is once a system has red slime outbreak it is hard to get rid of. The way to get rid of the red slime is starving it, this also starves the rest of the system and that is not good for a long term. This is where the removes come in and focus on starving the red slime. I also think the red slime bacteria can be introduced into the system via new frags, rocks or a sell of a conch, snail etc and then red slime grows depending on the nutrient levels in our systems. Like my system I run higher nutrient levels and when I get an outbreak the red cyano really has a good time growing all over everything

Sorry I meant less water flow. I did not proof my response before posting. I thought I read that water flow also is a contributing factor to red slime cyanbacteria.

 

[jsker]

Sorry I meant less water flow. I did not proof my response before posting. I thought I read that water flow also is a contributing factor to red slime cyanbacteria.

No apology needed, I do it alllllll the time. I have been told that too. I have a ton of water movement and it did not make a difference. I will say, if you decide to use a remover aerating the tank is a required with at air stone and pump. The remover use up a lot of oxygen in the water.

 

[Acronuts]

No apology needed, I do it alllllll the time. I have been told that too. I have a ton of water movement and it did not make a difference. I will say, if you decide to use a remover aerating the tank is a required with at air stone and pump. The remover use up a lot of oxygen in the water.

Isn't the skimmer enough?

 

[jsker]

Isn't the skimmer enough?

No, the skimmer will go crazy also for 48+ hours, and removing the cup is recommended and just let it boil over into the sump.

 

[jsker]

Well I guess I'll post a few! Lol

I want to add that some of these pictures your about to see are before and afters !


This is before Aquaforest... I saved this poor coral...

After a couple of weeks of Aquaforest. It actually looks even better now!!

Before Aquaforest.... another Aquaforest save!!

After a couple of weeks on Aquaforest!

The following pictures are some of the more recent ones taken.

This is a quick cell phone pic I took just the other day...

All Aquaforest all the time my friends! [emoji4]

Missed this one, great growth.

 

[domination2580]

Well ever since I added my acan to the tank work aquaforest it is the biggest I've ever seen it! I'm shocked at the transformation....it is incredible

 

[domination2580]