Tell me what you think
- Thread starter -drew-
- Start date
- Tagged users None
revhtree
Owner Administrator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Reef Squad
Partner Member 2024
Excellence Award
RGB
Photo of the Month
Article Contributor
R2R TV Featured
Hospitality Award
Article Administrator
Black Friday Sponsor
Industry Professional
3rd Monthly Contributor
My Tank Thread
My Aquarium Showcase
- Joined
- May 8, 2006
- Messages
- 49,235
- Reaction score
- 98,071
- Seller Rating
- 3 ★
- Rating Count
Looks awesome! I would have a lip that extends out around the tank as well.
akabryanhall
2500 Club Member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2009
- Messages
- 2,925
- Reaction score
- 185
Very ornate, I like it a lot, if you can pull it off, leave it like that. What type of wood?
akabryanhall
2500 Club Member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2009
- Messages
- 2,925
- Reaction score
- 185
Oh, pull out food tray/all purpose platform in between bottom cupboards and tank, 2 of them. You could eat in front of your tank and they will always come in handy to put ish on
Electrobes
Valuable Member
I agree with Rev and aka. That would make for a very classy stand and canopy.. I would definitely want that in my set up. Remember to water proof the inside.. you wouldn't want to ruin that awesome set up!
-drew-
Community Member
I like the pull out food tray idea. I think I might see if I can pull off this furniture quality stand and when I get a bigger tank I'll see about the food trays lol. This is my first ever stand so I'm not trying to go too overboard. I'm going to use either oak hardwood ply or hardwood pine boards. Maybe a combination of both for the doors.
I have already planned to waterproof everything. Im still not sure if I want to leave the columns running all the way to the tank then pick up on the canopy or if I should wrap the molding around the top of the columns on the top of the stand and bottom of te canopy.
I'm also thinking of workin in a piano hinge to flip the entire canopy face up for better access.
I have already planned to waterproof everything. Im still not sure if I want to leave the columns running all the way to the tank then pick up on the canopy or if I should wrap the molding around the top of the columns on the top of the stand and bottom of te canopy.
I'm also thinking of workin in a piano hinge to flip the entire canopy face up for better access.
-drew-
Community Member
I will also be attaching a thin sheet of basic ply to the bottom of the stand for equal weight distribution and a piece on top of the cross braces to support the sump. To keep the weight down I'm not using middle vertical supports or a top sheet of plywood since the tank has the plastic trim and will be resting on the 2x6 top frame, which will be strong enough not to deflect or bow under the weight of the 125. As for the canopy it will be assembled from oak ply using pocket screws or lightweight screw strips. It will have a space on top to mount the balasts for three 250w Mh and two vho ballasts. By mounting the balasts on top of the canopy I will be eliminating the added heat. I also will be installing at least 2 CPU fans on the rear of the canopy both blowing cool air in. I may cut small vent grooves in the canopy top to let excess heat escape if needed.
The last stand I built, I made up some 4" nice oak w/ ornate router work and put it at the bottom of the tank sitting on the cabinet to cover a visable 4" DSB.
I used velcro to hold it in place so easy removal if necessary. The corners were mitered and pinned. It really dressed up that tank. I'll see If I can find some pics of it.
I used velcro to hold it in place so easy removal if necessary. The corners were mitered and pinned. It really dressed up that tank. I'll see If I can find some pics of it.
Lateral72
Chaetodontidae
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2010
- Messages
- 616
- Reaction score
- 82
- What state or country do you live in
- Alabama
What surface are you planning to put it on? If you're going to put it on carpet, I'd skip that bottom skin all together, I have a feeling it may actually make the stand unsteady.
-drew-
Community Member
Lateral-The stand will be going on carpet, but it is a very thin carpet. The main reason for the bottom skin is that this tank is going in a second floor apartment and equal weight distribution is cucial. Having the tank rest on just the bottom frame only gives me very little surface area.
Tabasco-I'm in a toss up about side doors, but I hunk I'm leaning more and more toward them. The side opening between the frame is only 12" so they will be narrow doors, but having 12" is better than not being able to get in the sides at all.
Jhs- I know what you mean about hiding the trim and sandbed. I might make the siding come up enough to hide the trim. The only problem is getting the tank up and over the edge. My old 180 had a 3" tall rail on 3 sides to hide the trim and it was nearly impossible to move the tank onto or off of the stand.
Tabasco-I'm in a toss up about side doors, but I hunk I'm leaning more and more toward them. The side opening between the frame is only 12" so they will be narrow doors, but having 12" is better than not being able to get in the sides at all.
Jhs- I know what you mean about hiding the trim and sandbed. I might make the siding come up enough to hide the trim. The only problem is getting the tank up and over the edge. My old 180 had a 3" tall rail on 3 sides to hide the trim and it was nearly impossible to move the tank onto or off of the stand.
Harry_Y
Valuable Member
I would consider covering the 4 corners of the aquarium (glass) with a corner
strip stained the same as the wood held on by a small dab of silicone glue.
It is a very minor detail that I believe will give you a finished look.
Plus if you find you don't like them you can just easily remove them.
strip stained the same as the wood held on by a small dab of silicone glue.
It is a very minor detail that I believe will give you a finished look.
Plus if you find you don't like them you can just easily remove them.
-drew-
Community Member
Harry- I saw a big planted freshwater tank a few days ago that had the covered corners stained to match the stand and it looked so clean. If I did it I would have to make them removable so cleaning the glass would be possible.
CJ- I have only worked with wood a few times and it was never anything on this scale. Most of the wood working in the past was a few small things involving shelves and thugs like that. I will definitely post pictures of the finished stand when it's ready. Im planning to have the finish carpentry done tomorrow or at least 75% then finish and stain on Tuesday.
CJ- I have only worked with wood a few times and it was never anything on this scale. Most of the wood working in the past was a few small things involving shelves and thugs like that. I will definitely post pictures of the finished stand when it's ready. Im planning to have the finish carpentry done tomorrow or at least 75% then finish and stain on Tuesday.
fraggardner
Community Member
looks great keep it up
kingfisherfleshy
Well-Known Member
Couple things...one, are you planning on adding a central brace? I would be...most 125's have a brace in the middle, and you should support that.
Another point is that I have a 125g with dual end doors on the base, and although it was good for putting the sump and other stuff in, I would suggest screwing the door into place afterwords. My 125g stand is over 3' tall, and before the doors were screwed on you definitely could have knocked the tank over if you had wanted to. (Or if a small child had gone hurtling into it.)
Plans look awesome, I hope that you are fairly experienced at carpentry, because it also looks fairly ambitious. I hope that it works out that well.
Another point is that I have a 125g with dual end doors on the base, and although it was good for putting the sump and other stuff in, I would suggest screwing the door into place afterwords. My 125g stand is over 3' tall, and before the doors were screwed on you definitely could have knocked the tank over if you had wanted to. (Or if a small child had gone hurtling into it.)
Plans look awesome, I hope that you are fairly experienced at carpentry, because it also looks fairly ambitious. I hope that it works out that well.
-drew-
Community Member
I actually have almost no carpentry experience, but I try to plan everything out then research my ideas to see if they are plausible and possible without failure. The main frame design I posted pics of is based on the idea of direct weight transfer through the wood and not relying on screws. I later found out an engineer builds all of his stands this way.
Today I was able to assemble the face frames for the front and sides. Tomorrow night Im going to add a middle upright brace to the face for the doors to attatch to. It won't be supporting any weight. I ran out of wood tonight to do it so another trip to HD tomorrow. Going to try and get the wood for the doors too. Will get pics up later.
Total money invested in supplies not including tools so far: $100.
Furniture grade factory stand cost: $500
Today I was able to assemble the face frames for the front and sides. Tomorrow night Im going to add a middle upright brace to the face for the doors to attatch to. It won't be supporting any weight. I ran out of wood tonight to do it so another trip to HD tomorrow. Going to try and get the wood for the doors too. Will get pics up later.
Total money invested in supplies not including tools so far: $100.
Furniture grade factory stand cost: $500
