Terrys Red Sea Max E170 Build thread
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Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
I plan to
. I learned a lot from a friend this weekend for another project that turns out to have similar specifications. I will post about it Friday if it all works out.
OP
OP
Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
Today’s notes and husbandry guide/thoughts whatever you want to call it.
My daughters boyfriend got a used marine tank (from a fellow reefer here thank you very much BTW) and they were about to boil old rocks and such to sterilize them. I put the brakes on that and even offered to replace the rock.
In freshwater tanks it is common practice to boil rocks, sand, parts etc. to sterilize. They both have numerous fresh water tanks currently. (I’m the old salt with a marine tank). I figure that in saltwater reef tanks, that practice could potentially hurt you (look up palytoxin and the affects if inhaled).
My thinking: The fact is we grow corals in our reef tanks. Sometime we don’t get to pick what ones. Hitchhikers I have heard them called. Some corals use poisons/chemicals to get prey and defend themselves (from fish and other corals). Normaly these corals wont cause you any harm. If you boil your rocks, you could aerosolize this toxin. You then can potentially inhale it and make bad things happen.
Note: There is lots of room for argument on boiling outdoors, knowing specifically what was in your tank first etc. The new reefer like myself just wont have that knowledge yet.
Perhaps I am biased or over cautious due to my recent hospital stays. I spent months in a hospital unable to breath with fevers of 105 deg F due to infections caused by a ruptured pancreas. I took pictures of the outline of my body on the sheets from sweat during fever breaks. Let me just say this. It sucks balls! I never want to go through that again (which is what could happen if you breath in these toxins). I would rather spend $200 on new rock than $50,000 per week for a hospital bill any day. (In my case that bill was over $500,000+ US dollars.)
Sooo my general rule of thumb will be: The practice of boiling rock and sand on your stove for sterilization is not safe for marine aquariums (again assuming new reefer here) .
My daughters boyfriend got a used marine tank (from a fellow reefer here thank you very much BTW) and they were about to boil old rocks and such to sterilize them. I put the brakes on that and even offered to replace the rock.
In freshwater tanks it is common practice to boil rocks, sand, parts etc. to sterilize. They both have numerous fresh water tanks currently. (I’m the old salt with a marine tank). I figure that in saltwater reef tanks, that practice could potentially hurt you (look up palytoxin and the affects if inhaled).
My thinking: The fact is we grow corals in our reef tanks. Sometime we don’t get to pick what ones. Hitchhikers I have heard them called. Some corals use poisons/chemicals to get prey and defend themselves (from fish and other corals). Normaly these corals wont cause you any harm. If you boil your rocks, you could aerosolize this toxin. You then can potentially inhale it and make bad things happen.
Note: There is lots of room for argument on boiling outdoors, knowing specifically what was in your tank first etc. The new reefer like myself just wont have that knowledge yet.
Perhaps I am biased or over cautious due to my recent hospital stays. I spent months in a hospital unable to breath with fevers of 105 deg F due to infections caused by a ruptured pancreas. I took pictures of the outline of my body on the sheets from sweat during fever breaks. Let me just say this. It sucks balls! I never want to go through that again (which is what could happen if you breath in these toxins). I would rather spend $200 on new rock than $50,000 per week for a hospital bill any day. (In my case that bill was over $500,000+ US dollars.)
Sooo my general rule of thumb will be: The practice of boiling rock and sand on your stove for sterilization is not safe for marine aquariums (again assuming new reefer here) .
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count krunk
Valuable Member
never boil rocks, bake rocks, or do the same to sand.
If you are worried about hitchhikers, BRS has many videos on how to safely deal with that.
Sand you can just rinse off with water, spread it out on a sheet pan and let it bake in the sun, outdoors, to get it dried out.
If you are worried about hitchhikers, BRS has many videos on how to safely deal with that.
Sand you can just rinse off with water, spread it out on a sheet pan and let it bake in the sun, outdoors, to get it dried out.
OP
OP
Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
Please note I was going to create a separate post on this but chickened out.
I have been busy working out a backup power solution for those power outages greater than 6 hours and less than 24 hours. I have been researching an honestly the information is well vague and lacking in many areas. The common statement is that it is super important but don't have a lot of complete solutions. I thought I would start a thread to share what I found and collect ideas that hopefully manufactures eventually pick up on.
The systems I looked at were a good start (ecotech, IceCap) but need to evolve a bit for my taste.
What I don't like about the current solutions out there today. (UPS, Current Standby battery systems and just a battery and a plug)
- UPS systems often only run for a few hours. They have a lot of overhead that consumes your reserve power.
- Current backup products are not designed with the life of the battery in mind. They use a y cable that plugs the pumps power brick into one end, the battery into the other then into the pump itself. I am not sure if they even have a diode to prevent reverse current to the battery. In the case of a 12v pump it will draw the battery down to 12v (which is dead a full battery is close to 14v). A 24v pump it will over charge the battery eventually destroying it. Now when you need them they either don't work or work for a very short time. I think this was an adaptation of connecting a plug directly to a UPS battery for DC power.
- Is often designed around a specific product.
- Just plugging a battery into your pump doesn't provide standby power. (I have this setup now)
Setting up a solar charging station at my RC club, I realized we had similar requirements.
- Provide DC power to a load for X amount of time.
- Tend the battery when not in use prolonging the life
- Charge the battery when it is depleted
- Provide some isolation for the battery from the normal power supply.
- In some case provide temporary AC power that can be switched off
Not quite a perfect fit but really really close. Please note: Solar controllers don't always use a negative ground so if you plug them into a wall charger instead of a solar panel they make smoke. They do however make some negative ground units that can be plugged in (Hint, Hint 
).
I found a manufactured solution that I think would work very well for my aquarium and wanted to share. (Actually I'm pulling the core components of this out of this idea and building my own to reduce the cost). This is not pushing this specific product but trying to share just what it can do. I listed it because it is close to a buy and use product. You would need to get cables for your particular pump(s).
The easy solution is a commercial system that does basically everything
Why I like this.
). I found a manufactured solution that I think would work very well for my aquarium and wanted to share. (Actually I'm pulling the core components of this out of this idea and building my own to reduce the cost). This is not pushing this specific product but trying to share just what it can do. I listed it because it is close to a buy and use product. You would need to get cables for your particular pump(s).
The easy solution is a commercial system that does basically everything
Why I like this.
- * This is 400 watt hours. If your pumps are lets say 35 watts you should get 10ish hrs at 100% power. Turn them down to 50% and get 20hrs (I don't run my pumps at 100% anyway). My pumps are 10watts so 40hrs is possible.
- This will display and estimate of remaining time based on consumption.
- Can be connected to a solar panel for recharging.
- Has a switchable inverter (switched off so it doesn't consume power when not used.)
- Pure sine wave inverter (some pumps and equipment don't like non pure sine wave inverters)
- Overload and surge protection. Lets face it, pumps surge when they start and draw more current than you may expect.
- Can recharge with AC or with a solar panel
. (It looks to have a negative ground)
- Can be used for other things in your life when manufactures catch on
* For 24v you would need a boost converter but they are like $20.
theoretically I could plug this into AC and leave it connected to my pump via the DC output. When the power is out it switches to battery with a nice display with lots of good info. If I wanted to I can add a solar panel and extend the runtime. Easy peasy.
My solution is similar
+ 
+ 
+
theoretically I could plug this into AC and leave it connected to my pump via the DC output. When the power is out it switches to battery with a nice display with lots of good info. If I wanted to I can add a solar panel and extend the runtime. Easy peasy.
My solution is similar
+ + +
- The first is 15v 4 amp UL listed ac power supply.
- The second unit is a negative ground solar controller to tend and charge the battery. (this is why the PSU is 15V). Nice and small
- The third unit is a 12v to 24v step-up (boost) converter. (This on is cool any voltage from 9-15 in comes out at 24v) My eflux pumps are 24v. Way better than I needed but it allows me room to grow.
- The AGM battery is 35 amp hours (420 watt hours). My pumps are 10 watts at 100% and this should run them for 28 hours (battery's can be discharged to 80% capacity) . Since I run them less than 50% it could fun for 48 hours. You could use your choice of battery. I eventually plan to use a lithium battery. This controller can charge them.
- last but not least barrel connectors to hook up the pumps.
I got parts in the mail today. I need a few others to build it out. Hopefully it works as designed and no smoke is produced
.
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count krunk
Valuable Member
looking good so far! I would say once you are done with the write up here, edit it and paste it into a new thread in the correct sub forum (diy or equipment i would say).
If good enough (I think it will be) R2R may select it as an article and you would get a spiffy new badge!
If good enough (I think it will be) R2R may select it as an article and you would get a spiffy new badge!
OP
OP
Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
Thanks my brain is already churning on how to write a post on this. I have learned sooooo much more than I wanted to on the subject. Once I got the aha moment I wanted to share it. its very hard to be patient and test my prototype before sharing.
OP
OP
Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
hum seem to have lost my last few posts.
I believe it was one of my clowns they are staking out a claim on the spot where the mollies would sleep and rest. I think they may be getting ready to lay some eggs soon. The molly I pulled out is still alive and in the hospital tank. I don't think he will be able to ever go back in the DT due to the flow. I treated him for a bacterial infection anyway with Erythromycin. I figure with that much damage it was likely to get infected anyway. So for now he is doing well.
I believe it was one of my clowns they are staking out a claim on the spot where the mollies would sleep and rest. I think they may be getting ready to lay some eggs soon. The molly I pulled out is still alive and in the hospital tank. I don't think he will be able to ever go back in the DT due to the flow. I treated him for a bacterial infection anyway with Erythromycin. I figure with that much damage it was likely to get infected anyway. So for now he is doing well.
OP
OP
Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
I got a few of the parts In the mail yesterday. I assembled the system and started testing the rig.
I powered two wave pumps from the solar generator (learned that this is what they are called )
My pumps drew just under 2 amps at 100% (both pumps on continuously) . I don’t run that mode and run wave mode (alternating between both pumps) at 40% ( corals are frags and not blocking the flow so the flow is plenty). I ran that on battery only (12hrs) and the battery still had 12.8v under load. So for my 12hr test operation was a success.
What this test accomplished
As a precursor to tonight’s test (the power brick should be here) I plugged a 16v liPo battery into the pv input simulating a solar cell or power supply. It did start charging the battery and powered the pumps. However when the lipo started getting depleted, the controller seems to favor the battery charging and shutdown the load with an over-voltage error. Again I’m not using it correctly so the pseudo test was inter sting but not conclusive.
I know this controller will allow up to its full 10amp rating go to the battery charging. I paired this up with a 15v 8amp power brick, I am hoping this will still be sufficient. I will have to try running the battery for 24hrs and see if I get any strange behaviors. Worse case I charge the batteries after an event and leave the pumps off for an hours or so when charging.
I powered two wave pumps from the solar generator (learned that this is what they are called
)My pumps drew just under 2 amps at 100% (both pumps on continuously) . I don’t run that mode and run wave mode (alternating between both pumps) at 40% ( corals are frags and not blocking the flow so the flow is plenty). I ran that on battery only (12hrs) and the battery still had 12.8v under load. So for my 12hr test operation was a success.
What this test accomplished
- Is the battery and converter configured correctly. Yes
- Does the controller work for managing a load (on or off) . Yes
- Can the 12v battery power two 24v pumps (Using the boost converter) at 24v with little to no heat ( can it handle the amps required). Yes
- Will the converter allow me to turn the power on and off with a button. Yes
- Is my 35 mAh AGM battery sufficient to power the pumps for 12hrs or more.
As a precursor to tonight’s test (the power brick should be here) I plugged a 16v liPo battery into the pv input simulating a solar cell or power supply. It did start charging the battery and powered the pumps. However when the lipo started getting depleted, the controller seems to favor the battery charging and shutdown the load with an over-voltage error. Again I’m not using it correctly so the pseudo test was inter sting but not conclusive.
I know this controller will allow up to its full 10amp rating go to the battery charging. I paired this up with a 15v 8amp power brick, I am hoping this will still be sufficient. I will have to try running the battery for 24hrs and see if I get any strange behaviors. Worse case I charge the batteries after an event and leave the pumps off for an hours or so when charging.
OP
OP
Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
Posted my first DIY here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/solar-generator-for-backup-power.621771/
hope I don't get flamed to badly. I am always nervous about sharing what I did. I am scared someone is going to try it, do it wrong and sue me. I added a disclaimer.
hope I don't get flamed to badly. I am always nervous about sharing what I did. I am scared someone is going to try it, do it wrong and sue me. I added a disclaimer.
Nicholas Dushynsky
Valuable Member
Great thread.
OP
OP
Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
I got the power brick in the mail yesterday and connected it to my converter. Prior to doing so I used a battery charger a load to run the battery down.
Later I tested the entire unit by again charging batteries at 2amps (I confirmed I was pulling 2 amps) . The controller pulled 5.5 amps from the power brick charging the batteries and running the charger. I did notice a bit of a sag in the voltage at that draw but not less than 14v. The test was successful my opinion.
What did this test accomplish:
- My power brick is sufficient to charge the battery
- It is sufficient to power the pumps at full load.
- It is sufficient to do both concurrently
Observation:
I noticed that once the battery is charged and in float mode (trickle charging). Where the pumps get their power from (power brick or battery) kinda moves around. Sometimes it’s conning from the battery sometimes it’s from the brick. I suspect it bleeds off any excess charge to the load.
Any case I installed it for a trial run. I am sure I will be paranoid wreck while testing. I know that new plastic smell will be making me think something electronic is wrong. It usually does. I still plan to print a new enclosure for the Boost converter. For now its in a nylon servo box to protect it from splashes.
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OP
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Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
Just updated the installation, I made a box for the converter and added ferrules to the wires. These screw down terminals were not made to clamp bare wire. With ferrules you get a much better connection and thus reduce the risk of heat caused by a poor connection. I also added som wire loom for looks.
I printed a case for the boost converter. It’s giant and I don’t like it (the case that is). I found a waterproof 3A (72w) boost converter that is about a third the size. It’s $9 on Amazon. I may swap it out later.
I also shorted the wire so I don’t have a birds nest of wires
I printed a case for the boost converter. It’s giant and I don’t like it (the case that is). I found a waterproof 3A (72w) boost converter that is about a third the size. It’s $9 on Amazon. I may swap it out later.
I also shorted the wire so I don’t have a birds nest of wires
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Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
I’m not sure if I’m a coward or using good judgment.
I got a chance to go camping with my wife and kids for the next 4 days at cape code (about 5 hours away). . I had to promise my wife I would not take a great white shark home (Might be a high bio load for My 45g lol). Anyway I haven’t been on a vacation in 4 years (if you don’t count my 4 months in the hospital) so I’m a bit nervous. My neighbor will be by twice a day to check on our pets and my tank. I also have my daughters boyfriend (who has marine tanks) stopping by to check on mine and my daughters tanks.
My backup system is still in what I would consider in the testing/prototype stage and I do not have a good handle on its quirks yet (if there are any). Because of that I was worried about trying to explain to my neighbor how to disconnect the system and plug the pumps back in if something was to go wrong/fail. My brain also worried about what kind of things could happen if there was a failure In my backup system. So I chickened out and disconnected my backup and reconnected the power normal supplies . Some of the advantages of commercial testing I guess. Now my head is thinking that if power goes out I’ll regret it. I thinking in circles.
I hope I don’t regret my decision.
(I also felt the same about my ATO setup until I added a mechanical float ). I have to learn to trust that my configuration works in all situations.
Well time for bed I have to get up at 5am
I got a chance to go camping with my wife and kids for the next 4 days at cape code (about 5 hours away). . I had to promise my wife I would not take a great white shark home (Might be a high bio load for My 45g lol). Anyway I haven’t been on a vacation in 4 years (if you don’t count my 4 months in the hospital) so I’m a bit nervous. My neighbor will be by twice a day to check on our pets and my tank. I also have my daughters boyfriend (who has marine tanks) stopping by to check on mine and my daughters tanks.
My backup system is still in what I would consider in the testing/prototype stage and I do not have a good handle on its quirks yet (if there are any). Because of that I was worried about trying to explain to my neighbor how to disconnect the system and plug the pumps back in if something was to go wrong/fail. My brain also worried about what kind of things could happen if there was a failure In my backup system. So I chickened out and disconnected my backup and reconnected the power normal supplies . Some of the advantages of commercial testing I guess. Now my head is thinking that if power goes out I’ll regret it. I thinking in circles.
I hope I don’t regret my decision.
(I also felt the same about my ATO setup until I added a mechanical float ). I have to learn to trust that my configuration works in all situations.
Well time for bed I have to get up at 5am
OP
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Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
Went on vacation and had a great time. Unfortunately I tested some of those redundancies.
One of my two wave pumps failed. It seems to have jammed. MY skimmer also went whacky. The level of the bubbles in the throat went way down effectively causing the skimmer to fail since to wasn’t producing any skimmate.
As a result two corals suffered some loss. I also had patches of red slime (Cyano) and detritus.
I decided to test to see wats going on and then proactively do a water change and vacuum the cyano and detritus. As I expected my nitrates and phosphates were way up. Nitrates 16 and phosphates .17. My alk was also down from 7.6 to 7.0.
One of my two wave pumps failed. It seems to have jammed. MY skimmer also went whacky. The level of the bubbles in the throat went way down effectively causing the skimmer to fail since to wasn’t producing any skimmate.
As a result two corals suffered some loss. I also had patches of red slime (Cyano) and detritus.
I decided to test to see wats going on and then proactively do a water change and vacuum the cyano and detritus. As I expected my nitrates and phosphates were way up. Nitrates 16 and phosphates .17. My alk was also down from 7.6 to 7.0.
OP
OP
Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
Feeling very discouraged.
I posted earlier that I had two coral on the way out. I found that my candy cane, that was doing great (so I thought) was indeed not doing well at all. I seen some hair algae on the stalks and the heads seemed very small. I cleaned the algae off and realized that a lot of the bright green also came off leaving a bleached stalk. I also noticed one of my other (and favorite corals) is just not appearing much anymore. This seems to be my talent. I can get a frag it does great, grows then fizzles out and shrinks away. Hell I killed GSP and I though that was the cockroach of the coral world. This morning I felt like saying uncle in if these coral die and go fish only. I have no idea what I am doing wrong. I am so discouraged. I am hoping writing this out will help me see my issue.
Observations
I keep my water parameters stable and in the "green" zones. I do weekly water changes (I actually had to skip some to get my nitrates and phosphates up). I have lots of flow in the tank and no detritus (however one pump is failing as I mentioned). I test constantly and log everything. I empty and clean my skimmer cup daily. I am doing what I think I am supposed to do. Obviously I am missing something.
Since May,
Phosphate levels stay between .03 and .10
Nitrate between 5 and 10
calcium 450 rock solid (one dip to 410 but that could have been me)
Magnesium is 1400 - 1450 (prior to May it was solid at 1350 but I changed how I was mixing my salts and it increased)
Alkalinity is floating between 7.5 and 7.6 with one notable dip to 7.0 while I was gone.
PH is a pretty solid 8.0 but I had a dip in June to 7.6 when the windows got all closed up.
Salinity averages 34ppt but is between 33.5 (one measurement) and 35 (which is all 1.026 in S.G)
My light schedule has not changed. I am using a modified AB+ on the HD26.
I tested Ca, Mg, KH daily for a week and I did not get any drop. Literally none.
Notable other things.
I can eliminate Phosphate, Nitrate, Ca, Mg, KH, salinity
PH and Alkalinity is low but within a safe range
Research items.
Will increasing my PH and alkalinity help long term. I don't have an Apex or similar system so I am concerned about a KH of 8.0 or higher. Since my Ca is good how would this affect what I would use to do that.
To Do
I should check my bacteria and test ammonia and nitrite. They should be near zero.
I posted earlier that I had two coral on the way out. I found that my candy cane, that was doing great (so I thought) was indeed not doing well at all. I seen some hair algae on the stalks and the heads seemed very small. I cleaned the algae off and realized that a lot of the bright green also came off leaving a bleached stalk. I also noticed one of my other (and favorite corals) is just not appearing much anymore. This seems to be my talent. I can get a frag it does great, grows then fizzles out and shrinks away. Hell I killed GSP and I though that was the cockroach of the coral world. This morning I felt like saying uncle in if these coral die and go fish only. I have no idea what I am doing wrong. I am so discouraged. I am hoping writing this out will help me see my issue.
Observations
My fish seem to be hiding and the tank just doesn't give me that happy feeling it normally does. Something seems to be off. My gut tells me things are stressed and I need to fix it before bigger issues arise. Not sure if the stress was me going away and disrupting my routine. Zoas Palys and leather all seem to be loving life. The leather seems to be thriving and polyp extension is really cool. Toadstool , candy cane, birds nest are not happy.
I keep my water parameters stable and in the "green" zones. I do weekly water changes (I actually had to skip some to get my nitrates and phosphates up). I have lots of flow in the tank and no detritus (however one pump is failing as I mentioned). I test constantly and log everything. I empty and clean my skimmer cup daily. I am doing what I think I am supposed to do. Obviously I am missing something.
Since May,
Phosphate levels stay between .03 and .10
Nitrate between 5 and 10
calcium 450 rock solid (one dip to 410 but that could have been me)
Magnesium is 1400 - 1450 (prior to May it was solid at 1350 but I changed how I was mixing my salts and it increased)
Alkalinity is floating between 7.5 and 7.6 with one notable dip to 7.0 while I was gone.
PH is a pretty solid 8.0 but I had a dip in June to 7.6 when the windows got all closed up.
Salinity averages 34ppt but is between 33.5 (one measurement) and 35 (which is all 1.026 in S.G)
My light schedule has not changed. I am using a modified AB+ on the HD26.
I tested Ca, Mg, KH daily for a week and I did not get any drop. Literally none.
Notable other things.
- I forgot to turn the fan on one day two weeks ago and the tank temp rose to 80 (82 on my display , I calibrate against my Hanna). After that I started seeing problems with my birds nest.
- I moved the wave pumps to get more flow in the tank. After I had the warm day and when I was messing with backup.
- Most recently I had the pump failure.
- I used 1/2 tsp of Kent marine buffer (mixed and added to sump) on June 30th to bring my Alkalinity up from 7.0 to 7.6
- I have been spot feeding reef roids once a week.
I can eliminate Phosphate, Nitrate, Ca, Mg, KH, salinity
PH and Alkalinity is low but within a safe range
Research items.
- Fish are stressed\hiding. What would cause that.
- Reduced or modified flow. How would it affect those corals most effected
- Used buffer was it to quick a change? how would it affect those corals
- Heat . Perhaps my Hanna and the other thermometer I used to calibrate are actually low and 82 is actually 82.
- Insufficient\incorrect lighting?
Will increasing my PH and alkalinity help long term. I don't have an Apex or similar system so I am concerned about a KH of 8.0 or higher. Since my Ca is good how would this affect what I would use to do that.
To Do
I should check my bacteria and test ammonia and nitrite. They should be near zero.
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OP
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Taxus812
Destroyer of corals
Well a positive note. I emailed currentusa tech support with my pump issue. I told them what it was doing what I did and asked if there is something else I could check. They simply replaced the pump under warranty. I should have it next week.
I also bumped the lights up about 10w. I figured it was the easiest to adjust. I also found the birds nest and candy canes like strong light. The fish are peeking up and swimming around. Perhaps it’s part of the puzzle.
I also bumped the lights up about 10w. I figured it was the easiest to adjust. I also found the birds nest and candy canes like strong light. The fish are peeking up and swimming around. Perhaps it’s part of the puzzle.
