**The GHL Mitras LX7 LED**

[Whipples]

I'm not sure there are as many users who know they can do that. What I will say is the ability to program "live"over your tank is very helpful. Just play with the color sliders and the estimated K rating of the output as well as spectra graph to make sure you are hitting the areas you want and tweak from there. They really are adaptive lights that can run several programs and color blends if you are willing to put some time in to it. This way you can also get a spectrum that best matches the corals you've got and can bring out their colors.

 

[dragon99]

Why arent there more lighting programs to download?
@slief, have you posted your latest light program yet?

My guess is that GHL isn't updating the site or is very selective about what is posted. I submitted my lighting program a couple months back and it doesn't show up.

 

[schaNYC]

8020 help please. What hardware do I need to make the final mount from the T slot to the fixture. I think I read elsewhere m4 screws are used but trying to figure out how that the m4 screws would attach to the T slot. FYI, I don't own the light yet, but trying to figure out mounting options first.

 

[dangros]

@schaNYC, I'm not sure if this applies but here's what I did to tank mount my Mitras using the Vervve mounts. The M4 screws did fit:
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/tank-mount-for-mitras-lx7-using-vervve-mounts.315143/

 

[schaNYC]

Thx. Looks like you used spacers and thats why you went with 25mm length?

 

[dangros]

Correct. The Vervve mounts come with 8 of those spacers. I used 2 on each screw b/c I needed the clearance (I think for the power cord to tuck under). The original screws were M4's but were not long enough.

 

[mtraylor]

Posting Monti Update. The monti is now about halfway of filling up this rock. Woo hoo!

Took a night pic.

 

[dangros]

Hopefully this helps others. I asked GHL what the recommended settings for SPS were. Vinny responded w/this. I've been running it for 3 months now w/good results:

Here’s what I suggest running over an SPS system:


As you can see, the blue channels can be run at 100% as this is the spectrum corals utilize the most. The white channels can be adjusted to your liking; if you prefer the bluer or whiter overall appearance. The UV channel you can start it at 40% and slowly increase by 5% every week or just leave it as is for 2 weeks to seehow corals respond.
Just be careful with the UV channel. A sudden jump can stress out coral and cause some tissue necrosis.
Since you’re not using much of the Red and Green channels, you have unused power which can be transferred over to other channels. Use the PBT feature located in the ENERGY OPTIONS settings page. Set HV and all Blue channels to 130% to send more power to these channels.

I personally like to set the fixture to 100% HO and 100% fan speed in the ENERGY OPTIONS page, just to utilize more of the fixture’s power. Any adjustments you make to the intensity can be done in LIGHT COMPOSER. Here:

I suggest running the above spectrum for at least 6 hours. What the fixture does before and after this spectrum is up to you. Some like to have their fixtures turn ON 2 hours before the peak schedule with only RB running and slowly ramp up blues, then transition to the peak schedule, then go back to blue at the end of the day, then turn OFF.

Whateveryou do, make sure to give the corals enough time to adjust to the new spectrum, at least 1 month. Little tweaks here and there are okay, but you should never make large changes without giving the corals enough time to adjust to the new spectrum and schedule.Hopefully this gets you going in the right direction.

 

[HolisticBear]

@dangros thank you for sharing. What temperature does your fixture hit with that program?

I'm running Blues @ 104% and hit the thermal limit (which I increased to 65C). There is no warning or change in behavior, but if I look at the fixture I can see I hit the thermal limit, so I'm not sure what % of total power I'm actually getting. I do know I want my PAR increased by ~25%.

EDIT: My program is very similar to yours, but I'm barely over-driving the blues. I'd like to increase to 130%.

 

[Whipples]

@dangros thank you for sharing. What temperature does your fixture hit with that program?

I'm running Blues @ 104% and hit the thermal limit (which I increased to 65C). There is no warning or change in behavior, but if I look at the fixture I can see I hit the thermal limit, so I'm not sure what % of total power I'm actually getting. I do know I want my PAR increased by ~25%.

EDIT: My program is very similar to yours, but I'm barely over-driving the blues. I'd like to increase to 130%.

I run something similar with a few channels at 130% and I set fan limit to 100 and temperature to 60C and my lights hover at 58C during peak periods.

 

[HolisticBear]

I run something similar with a few channels at 130% and I set fan limit to 100 and temperature to 60C and my lights hover at 58C during peak periods.

Thanks, your fans work much better than mine. In a room at 77F, I have problems and the units aren't in an enclosure. I'll investigate and see if one of the fans seems off

 

[Whipples]

Have you checked your thermal and fan limits via GCC? Maybe they need to be cleaned with compressed air?

 

[HolisticBear]

Have you checked your thermal and fan limits via GCC? Maybe they need to be cleaned with compressed air?

Fan increased to 100% (still silent) and thermal limit increased from 60 -> 65. I wonder if I can open it up. Compressed air may work, but I'd probably just blow the dust onto the electronics

 

[mtraylor]

With the ability to overdrive the other channels, I may need to sell my 6300's and get the new ones. More blue. Woo Hoo.

 

[Whipples]

Here is my lighting run, 10am-10pm (Reefrocker's program on GHL website modified slightly) 17k peak, with a 1.5hr 15k peak for par, and energy options. With this, my fixtures top out at 100% fan speed and 58-59C. Hope this helps

 

[dangros]

Good question @HolisticBear and I'm glad you asked b/c when I checked, my max was set to 60C with fan set to 100%. The actual temp was at 60. SO, I emailed support at GHL. They confirmed that the unit will drop it's power when necessary to maintain the upper temp limits. He also recommended going to 65 which I did. After checking later in the day, the actual temp rose to 65 as well. It would be interesting to see what the actual intensity is during all this!

@dangros thank you for sharing. What temperature does your fixture hit with that program?

I'm running Blues @ 104% and hit the thermal limit (which I increased to 65C). There is no warning or change in behavior, but if I look at the fixture I can see I hit the thermal limit, so I'm not sure what % of total power I'm actually getting. I do know I want my PAR increased by ~25%.

EDIT: My program is very similar to yours, but I'm barely over-driving the blues. I'd like to increase to 130%.

 

[Pmj]

I don't understand the odd percentages for certain colors that people are showing, and that the fixture does by default when you adjust to a spectrum slider. Why not just put the blues and uv to 100% and adjust white/red/green to get the spectrum you want? That way your PAR is higher (notice the brightness and wattage listed). I run 14.5k most of the day before it fades to 16k to 20k.

 

[HolisticBear]

I don't understand the odd percentages for certain colors that people are showing, and that the fixture does by default when you adjust to a spectrum slider. Why not just put the blues and uv to 100% and adjust white/red/green to get the spectrum you want? That way your PAR is higher (notice the brightness and wattage listed). I run 14.5k most of the day before it fades to 16k to 20k.

It's GHL Power Balancing. Arguably it could be UI issue, it could be buried inside software where the user just picked a color temperature and % max power and the software handled it.

But if you have say 100Watts for 4 LEDs, if you know you're using 1/2 of those LEDs at less than full power, then you can drive the extra power to the other LEDs. The link above has some pictures and better explanation.

 

[Pmj]

It's GHL Power Balancing. Arguably it could be UI issue, it could be buried inside software where the user just picked a color temperature and % max power and the software handled it.

But if you have say 100Watts for 4 LEDs, if you know you're using 1/2 of those LEDs at less than full power, then you can drive the extra power to the other LEDs. The link above has some pictures and better explanation.

Yes, I'm overdriving the blues & uv as well. Still don't understand why they would be anything less than 100% in the light composer and 130% in the power options (once your system is acclimated of course).

 

[Whipples]

Edit: misread your post. I agree, that’s how I set mine @Pmj