The Wrasse Lover's Thread!

Also, the quality of "maleness" may vary. Some transition to beautiful terminal males, some only get to initial phase males.

Bingo. My rubrisquamis has been in the initial phase for 18+ months. Still pretty, but not stunning. Also, not aggressive at all, which I'm fine with. Curious if he ever does go terminal if he'll become the hellion that Hunter always warns me about.
 
Bingo. My rubrisquamis has been in the initial phase for 18+ months. Still pretty, but not stunning. Also, not aggressive at all, which I'm fine with. Curious if he ever does go terminal if he'll become the hellion that Hunter always warns me about.
I have a little female/sub-male who is kind of douchy towards the other wrasses in the tank, but only chases. S/he got good anal fin color when she was in the acclimation box but rarely shows it now. S/he's still got the black caudal spot too.

Zac
 
Do C. lubbocki. and Whip Fin wrasses get along i [think] i made the mistake of buying a whip fin i have had him in my acclimation box for a couple days but the C. lubbocki keeps close eye on the box. i read somewhere whip fins are pretty aggressive any opinions? Should i trade him off to another reefer and look for some claimer wrasses?
 
Lost my Aussie Harleqin Tusk this morning to ick. Fresh water dipped him and then placed him in hospital tank with 1.010 salinity and he went frantic and died. For the future what is a safe treatment to use on a wrasse?
 
Lost my Aussie Harleqin Tusk this morning to ick. Fresh water dipped him and then placed him in hospital tank with 1.010 salinity and he went frantic and died. For the future what is a safe treatment to use on a wrasse?
You should bring salinity down somewhat slowly. They can handle "large" adjustments but a quick adjustment from 1.023 (standard reef) or higher to 1.010 will not be well received oftentimes.
 
I thought since he went in the fresh water dip that going back to regular salinity would be more stressful than going to 1.010
 
I thought since he went in the fresh water dip that going back to regular salinity would be more stressful than going to 1.010

No, that just means he had to adjust to three vastly different salinities. (1.023 or whatever it WAS, fresh, and then 1.010). It is important that their recovery salinity is not out of whack as this stresses them immensely and their systems do not know how to react to all of this. Freshwater dips are sometimes a necessary evil and fish do well with them, but returning them back to the original salinity is BY FAR the best method. This is because most fish do not truly "acclimate" to the fresh water in the dip at all. Both because they do not have the time (they are not in freshwater very long) and because it's not physically possible for them to adjust based on their chemistry.
 
I thought since he went in the fresh water dip that going back to regular salinity would be more stressful than going to 1.010
That led to osmotic shock. Even fish that can tolerate both full fresh and full marine salinity need gradual acclimation. Your tusk was already strssed due to disease
 
No, that just means he had to adjust to three vastly different salinities. (1.023 or whatever it WAS, fresh, and then 1.010). It is important that their recovery salinity is not out of whack as this stresses them immensely and their systems do not know how to react to all of this. Freshwater dips are sometimes a necessary evil and fish do well with them, but returning them back to the original salinity is BY FAR the best method. This is because most fish do not truly "acclimate" to the fresh water in the dip at all. Both because they do not have the time (they are not in freshwater very long) and because it's not physically possible for them to adjust based on their chemistry.
Thank you for this info. It was a sad day today due to my mistakes.
 
So the correct procedure was to prepare the hospital tank to same salinity as display tank, fresh water dip him for 5 minutes. Then put him in hospital tank???? I was then going to use SeaChem Paraguard. Does this sound correct? What medications are you using on Wrasses?
 
You just have to learn from it and move on. I only use fresh water drips to diagnose flukes and if a fish is stressed by Ich or other parasite. If he is eating and breathing ok I just begin treatment. I prefer to use TTM because it makes more sense scientifically than other treatments (failures not rare with hypo, some fish don't tolerate copper well).
 
Thank you for this info. It was a sad day today due to my mistakes.
We have all killed fish with rookie mistakes. Believe me I have done it, and even still do it. I messed up TTM recently after 12 years in the hobby and killed 5 expensive and favorite fish.

It happens to all of us. Just do your best to prevent it and use those situations to learn. It is unfortunate but at this point it is in the past. We cannot change it.
 
I very recently lost my first Leopard Wrasse; didn't even have the chance to get to know what it was like and it still hurt. The LFS is giving me another tomorrow, visibly more outgoing, eating frozen and flake and very beautiful (a Potter's). Getting the QT heated tonight and picking it up tomorrow. I hope this one makes me forget about the other.
We learn and do better the next time.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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