This hobby hates me...
- Thread starter gemini9
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Dalmatia
Valuable Member
I believe this just that one fact! Landscaping rock is none pores, so it weighs much more (disadvantage) and has no surface area for your bacteria (the biggest disadvantage). Cycling that type of rock isn't even necessary, just a good rinse!
Don't use landscaping rock in a saltwater system, it's a waste of space for pound by pound, weighs too much and has no beneficial value to your tank
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And how big is the fuge set up compared to your DT?
beaslbob
2500 Club Member
~25-30%.
Dalmatia
Valuable Member
Cal., KH and magnesium are maintained better with a sand bed as the sand is also made out of calcium which will keep each in balance.
I'm like you and have no LS in my tank so that's all I have to dose (cal.,KH.,mag.)
Dalmatia
Valuable Member
If you really want, just bleach your rock for 3 days. Start over ( I don't recommend it )
Do a 100% water change! Wash your rock with the water your chucking out! Do a test right after! Do another tomorrow! One after that!!! See what's going on. I bet you'll find the problem or just end up adding your nimos
Good luck bro
OP
OP
gemini9
Newb!
Dal, what were you saying about landscaping rocks? How can you tell the difference? I've got fiji, pukani, and reefsaver in there. Plus one tonga shelf. I'm getting ready to add another 2 pounds of pukani and a pound of multibranch after I'm certain it's cleaned really well.
As for the test results, I'm certain I'm reading them correctly because I've taken water samples to LFS and they get the same results. I asked about buying a few fish, clown fish, and they said that with my nitrates between 80 and 160, he doesn't recommend putting in any fish. The 5 hermits seem to be doing just fine tho. I've actually thought about taking out all the live rock, bleaching it and cleaning it and starting over but man.... I don't really ... wanna.. lol.
Next water change I'll do a 50% and scoop out all my crushed coral and add the sand.
I read the article on dosing vinegar and looked at the chart, but I still don't understand how much to dose. It says to add 0.8 on days 1-3. 0.8.. what.. 0.8 tablespoons? mL? cups? I may be just plain dumb here.. but I don't see any reference in the article as to how much to put in here.
As for the test results, I'm certain I'm reading them correctly because I've taken water samples to LFS and they get the same results. I asked about buying a few fish, clown fish, and they said that with my nitrates between 80 and 160, he doesn't recommend putting in any fish. The 5 hermits seem to be doing just fine tho. I've actually thought about taking out all the live rock, bleaching it and cleaning it and starting over but man.... I don't really ... wanna.. lol.
Next water change I'll do a 50% and scoop out all my crushed coral and add the sand.
I read the article on dosing vinegar and looked at the chart, but I still don't understand how much to dose. It says to add 0.8 on days 1-3. 0.8.. what.. 0.8 tablespoons? mL? cups? I may be just plain dumb here.. but I don't see any reference in the article as to how much to put in here.
prsnlty
Jackie
It may very well be that your crushed coral is the nitrate issue. It tends to do that IME. One I got rid of mine (years ago) the problem subsided almost completely. It's good you're swapping it out for the sand
Jackie
Jackie
beaslbob
2500 Club Member
You may find that nitrates are high because the algae on the rocks is consuming ammonia instead of nitrates.
If that is the case then the tank is actually working fine. And nitrates will drop down once the bacteria consume ammonia and the algae consumes more of the nitrates.
The crabs would probably eat andy added macros. Hence my suggestion of the partition to keep them and fish away from the macros.
High nitrates are not detremental to fish but can be bad for corals.
Again I would try acclimating a single molly to test the tank.
The landscaping rocks are heavier and not as porus. Which is not important as algae can still grow on them. But the hobby is obsessed with the holes being for anaerobic/anoxic bacteria consuming nitrates. There are no experimental data to back up that claim. But there are experimental data the algae on the rocks consuming ammonia/nitrates, carbon dioxide and returning oxygen.
I used limestone rocks from a local quarry. They cost $20/TON. Sure they were no porus. But worked fine. Besides then gave me a trunkload free. LOL
A more debatable option I have used in the red lava rocks. They worked fine also and were actually porus. Years ago Reefers used to silicone them together to form various structures.
Finally, and a lot of work you can actually make rocks from cement to whatever shape you want. And they can be porus also. But that is a long process requiring lotsa work.
my .02
If that is the case then the tank is actually working fine. And nitrates will drop down once the bacteria consume ammonia and the algae consumes more of the nitrates.
The crabs would probably eat andy added macros. Hence my suggestion of the partition to keep them and fish away from the macros.
High nitrates are not detremental to fish but can be bad for corals.
Again I would try acclimating a single molly to test the tank.
The landscaping rocks are heavier and not as porus. Which is not important as algae can still grow on them. But the hobby is obsessed with the holes being for anaerobic/anoxic bacteria consuming nitrates. There are no experimental data to back up that claim. But there are experimental data the algae on the rocks consuming ammonia/nitrates, carbon dioxide and returning oxygen.
I used limestone rocks from a local quarry. They cost $20/TON. Sure they were no porus. But worked fine. Besides then gave me a trunkload free. LOL
A more debatable option I have used in the red lava rocks. They worked fine also and were actually porus. Years ago Reefers used to silicone them together to form various structures.
Finally, and a lot of work you can actually make rocks from cement to whatever shape you want. And they can be porus also. But that is a long process requiring lotsa work.
my .02
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There may be no hard scientific proof that live rock filters nutrients, but so many hobbyists have witnessed it first hand. Last week I watched my rock aspirate for 2 days. The end result was a complete reduction of nitrate, not a trace left. The nitrate was over 1ppm the day before, and completely undetectable on the day after.
Naiad
Valuable Member
You can have fish with the higher nitrates just be sure to acclimate them as it will be a bit of a shock. My newer tank became a nitrate factory like yours when I had to switch due to a leak. These guys will get you through it if you are patient enough.
Dalmatia
Valuable Member
Gemini,,, the rock you have is all good, some man made (reef saver), some more beneficial do to total surface area that bb can cover( pores and lighter ) like pukani,,, and fiji LR, also very pores but a lot heaver but one of the most used types of LR
Landscaping rock,,, hmmmm from your garden, front porch, stacked in front of buildings....
Landscaping rock,,, hmmmm from your garden, front porch, stacked in front of buildings....
Just a comment, I highly doubt that the crushed coral is the cause of the nitrates - his tank has not been up and running that long for it to trap that much detritrus. If you're going to change out your sand, now is the time to do it before you've added a lot of livestock.
