Those that have used chemiclean

[saltyphish]

yes long white strands are dead algae. Worked like a charm for me. I would do a second round if you still have cyano

 

[Piranhapat]

Is this stuff SPS safe. I have cyano during the day and most of it gone in morning. But comes back once the lights go back on. Enough but not to bad. Just like to get rid of it once and for all. Concern for SPS ....

 

[Reefermadness73]

I used it on my sps tank

 

[Breakthecycle2]

Im still seeing it on my sand bed the most. Also, is it supposed to leave this clear sticky film on everything?

 

[Waters]

Mine worked but it took the full 48 hours. Also to help remove it after water changes, I connected the discharge tube to my skimmer cup and ran that directly back into the sump but through filter media/charcoal. Helped get the skimmer working quicker by removing more of the medication.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

I am at my whits end now. I dosed and left it for almost three days. It has killed some as I see the white strands of it all over, however, it is still on the sand bed and coming back on some rocks, or it never worked on it. Aside from the days I dosed, I do 10-15 gallon water changes every day, sometimes 25 gallon. I have a 57w UV. I have a skimmer rated for a 300 gallon tank (heavy bioload, otherwise, 500 gallons). I use a reactor with ROWA. I have two sacks of chemipure Blue in both socks. I have the lights on at 4PM until 11PM and the whites, at max, are only 10%. I have a 1200 GPH return pump in the sump (under the stand) and two MP40's on 100%. My phosphates (as of Tuesday were .03, down from .07 last week) and no traces of nitrates.

 

[SurlyT]

I haven't used it for a while but used to have a nano tank that needed it a couple of times a year. After many trials I found that I had to use twice the recommended dosage and leave it in for days in order to see any significant dieback. Please note that I'm not recommending you ignore the manufacturer's instructions, just stating that it took some reckless abandon in my case to see results.

I never had any issues using it with SPS but I know at least one person who thinks it cost him his corals. So while I personally wouldn't worry about it, the smart move is to pay close attention to your corals and have a good amount of makeup water on hand just in case.

 

[N1Husker]

When I have used it in the past. I leave my skimmer off, put in a large airstone. After 48 hours I return the carbon, do a water change. I will do water changes, two more over the next couple of weeks before I turn the skimmer on. Sometimes it will overflow for a couple of hours but then settles down. The water changes are the key to settle down your skimmer.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

BUt after the 48 hours and putting the carbon back in, doesn't just pull it on anyway? I just did another dose. Added the airstone, shut the UV off, left the skimmer on and took the carbon out. I short does it the first time.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

I also have white "stringy strands" inside my reactor. Any idea why?

 

[Longnose Hawkfish]

Are you sure it's cyano?

 

[Breakthecycle2]

Unless its diatoms and cyano, but there's def cyano.

 

[melev]

Based on your comments, I don't know if you have cyano bacteria at all. You may have dinoflagellates. Here's my article about Cyano: http://www.reefaddicts.com/content.php/42-Cyanobacteria-what-is-it-and-how-can-I-get-rid-of-it

And here's how to use Chemi-Clean or RedCyano Rx:
melev's recommendation: To treat your tank with best results, it would be best to siphon out as much of the cyano bacteria out of your tank first. Reducing the volume of red slime from the aquarium helps avoid issues. Be sure to point one powerhead at the surface to get strong rippling, which improves oxygenation of the water. Plugging in an airpump and airstone to add oxygen to the water is another good idea, especially in tanks with low flow.

Turn off the protein skimmer, and stop running carbon and GFO. The tank can be treated day or night, and all of your livestock is safe. While the tank is being treated, start mixing up new saltwater because a big water change is next. After 72 hours, check the tank and if the cyano is gone, do a 25% or larger water change. If cyano is still present, wait another 24 hours. If it is still present, treat the tank again. Once the cyano is gone, do the big water change. The bigger the better because the product will cause protein skimmers to oveflow initially. Adjust the skimmer to the lowest water level in the body, and as the collection cup fills with watery skimmate, toss it out. Keep tossing out skimmate and replenish the system with more saltwater. After a few hours, the skimmer should settle down finally. If microbubbles are getting the best of you, put a filter sock on the output of the skimmer for the first day.

 

[Breakthecycle2]

I'm pretty sure it's cyano. It's my understanding that Dino tend to be greener and not dark brown . I have redish outbreaks on the rocks and golden brown to dark brown on the sand

 

[terri_ann]

There are possibly several issues you are dealing with: 1.) Not enough flow 2.) Overfeeding 3.)Skimmer isn't handling the nutrient export 4.)Nutrients accumulated in the rock and sand 5.) Bulbs have changed spectrum 6.) Sunlight 7.) Bioload is just way over what the tank can handle Please assess these conditions to help remedy the problem. Good luck

 

[Breakthecycle2]

There are possibly several issues you are dealing with: 1.) Not enough flow 2.) Overfeeding 3.)Skimmer isn't handling the nutrient export 4.)Nutrients accumulated in the rock and sand 5.) Bulbs have changed spectrum 6.) Sunlight 7.) Bioload is just way over what the tank can handle Please assess these conditions to help remedy the problem. Good luck

I've narrowed it down I think. I am not overfeeding as I feed once a day and not too much. My skimmer is rated for 500 gallons or 300 gallons with a heavy bioload (my tank is 200 gallons). I have brand new Radions, so it's not the bulbs. I have a dozen fish in my tank, 10 of them require a 70 gallon or less, 8 of them are 30 gallon or less. My two biggest fish are a mimic tank an moorish idol, which aren't that big to begin with. So, flow is probably an issue. I have two MP40's and a 1200 GPH return pump. I can't go higher with my pump for a few reasons. 1. The return pump section in my sump is very small. 2. If I went with an external, I'd have to replumb and drill out my sump. 3. The water level in my DT at the full 1200 GPH is at the very top against the eurobracing. My tank is in direct line with my front door, which faces North. Not a ton of light comes through, but light does come in. I thought about tinting the front door glass. With that being said, I cover that side of the tank with a towel every night and it doesn't seem to help. What I really need is someone to come here, see it and tell me what the heck it is. The chemiclean should have wiped it out the first time.

 

[melev]

How old is your tank? Can you please post some pictures?

 

[JasPR]

well, when you must you must-- and I'm not here to scold anyone or make anyone feel bad about desperate choices. BUT, for the innocent and newbie and even the long term 'uninitiated' to the big picture---- a marine aquarium is a mimic of nature. That is, it is a closed system that uses some of natures basic and omni-present themes and cycles. IT is NOT nature in miniature. the best we can do as hobbyists is to direct conditions so as to favor the desirable and discourage the undesirable. so where does chemotherapy come in? like human chemo, 'marine chemotherapy' introduces a poison of one type or another, in small doses. small doses to kill the undesirable and low enough doses so as not to kill higher forms of life. Good as far as it goes. Yet this one dimensional cure from a bottle has unintended secondary consequences. This unintended consequence comes in a general imbalance in overall system stability. IF you do go the pop culture or commercial way of curing things--- prepare for those unintended consequences. particularly look into the concept of G.A.S. and how life in general is effected by purposely introduced stress -- Nuff said, JasPR

 

[that Reef Guy]

Make sure you use Air Stone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can't Stress that Enough.

I didn't use an Air Stone once and lost all my Fish, Shrimp, and Starfish.

It strips the Oxygen out Immediatly!

Since then I have Always used 2 Airstones and never lost anything.

I find that most people that get Cyano have too little flow so I would add Power Heads too.

Remember Chemi-Clean is a Band-Aid.

Cyano will keep coming back unless you figure out the problem (Often Lack of Flow).

 

[Rasengan]

Dinos are definitely not greener, they are brown and look like slimy stringy stuff with a lot of air bubbles. Post pictures so people can give you correct advice. Otherwise everyone is wasting time trying to help you figure out what you have.