Tiny sump, but what's the issue?

[Forsaken77]

But what is the disaster?
If I make sure that the water level of a power outage once I install the new overflow can be handled by the sump, I can also install a return siphon break in lieu of concerns over the check valve (even though it is spring-type not flap) and then there is basically 0% chance of overflowing to my floor.

If I do find that my new overflow makes it so my sump can't handle it, great I guess I'm pulling out my wallet again. But I'm asking is there any other reason a larger sump is necessary, and can you explain what my LFS was saying to me about the skimmer not working in a small sump vs. a large sump?

Thanks!

As long as your skimmer is set to the correct depth at ALL times, the size of the sump doesn't matter.

But I would really prepare for making sure your sump can handle all of the backflow. Even the skimmer will empty out with no power and add to the water level.

 

[Retro Reefer]

Consider how tiny the sump sections are on AIO’s, as long as it will hold back flow on a power outage your fine.. your skimmer appears to be at the right depth and working properly from the pictures you posted

NOTE*** Move that power strip as far from your tank as possible, your flirting with disaster having it under your cabinet next to sump.

 

[Harrison Gordon]

Protein skimmers require a certain level of water in the sump to run consistently, unless it’s a recirculating skimmer. In that size sump, how are you maintaining ATO such that the water level in the smaller sump doesn’t vary much, and thus impact the skimmer? That’s all I could think of, that they are saying related to the skimmer performance.

If you’re sump can maintain the volume of water during a power outage, if the check valve were to not work, then cool. Just something to test, I like to think of check valves as good for when you are there, doing water changes or whatever, but disaster wise I don’t count them in the equation and plan to ensure the sump will handle the extra volume alone.

I don’t see where your heaters are, but they are nice to have in sumps, not in DT, if that is a reason for a larger sump. I don’t think I see it in sump from the pics. Some people will plumb a second return pump for disasters too, another possible good reason for a larger sump. For me, I hate working in tight spaces, but that’s just me, .

So in my sump the ATO is attached to the compartment with the return pump. Therefore, when it works properly, the only place where the water level changes is in the compartment with just the return.

If I find that the new overflow causes the current sump to overflow, obviously I need a new sump.

Also my heater doesn't fit in the sump so I stuck it in a corner of the tank and don't really care about it. But it would be nice to have in sump.

I'm going to LFS today to talk to them about a bunch of stuff

Thanks

 

[mcarroll]

Check valve is the push-spring style if you know what I mean.

These are likely to be metal/plastic construction, giving them a high probability of failure. If you're not sure, I'd get sure or remove/replace it.