Tips for installing bulkheads in brute trash cans

So why not replace with 3/4" uniseal? when I say 3/4" i mean designed for 3/4" pvc I don't know the actual sizes off hand but they make them for pretty much all standard pvc sizes.
Ok according to the brs site a 3/4 inch uniseal requires a 1 1/4 in hole. I've already drilled a 1.5 in hole. Would my hole be too big?
 
Ok according to the brs site a 3/4 inch uniseal requires a 1 1/4 in hole. I've already drilled a 1.5 in hole. Would my hole be too big?
I think it would be to big. To big of a risk for leaks. Might be better of drilling the hole to the next uniseal size up (1" seal) and use a pvc reducer.
 
I think it would be to big. To big of a risk for leaks. Might be better of drilling the hole to the next uniseal size up (1" seal) and use a pvc reducer.
I have a 2 inch hole saw already i may go on up to that size and use the 1 1/4 inch pipe and reduce it to 3/4.
Hate to have to buy another hole saw..
I'd really like to be able to get the bulkheads to work tho
 
I would also suggest a uniseal, but since you already drilled for a bulkhead, did you sand the area near the hole and inside the hole smooth? Sometimes plastic burrs will interfere with the seal.
 
I would also suggest a uniseal, but since you already drilled for a bulkhead, did you sand the area near the hole and inside the hole smooth? Sometimes plastic burrs will interfere with the seal.
No I will try that
 
Do you use any silicone or pvc cement for the uniseal or just slide the pip in and thats that?
 
No I will try that
It makes a big difference. Can be a pain since the plastic does not sand easily though. Just try to get the hole as smooth as possible. If there were burrs that needed to be sanded, try flipping the gasket over after you clean up the hole because the burrs could have deformed the gasket a little bit. Put the good flat side against the trash can.
 
Do you use any silicone or pvc cement for the uniseal or just slide the pip in and thats that?
no silicone, just a good smooth hole in the can and put the uniseal in. The pvc pipe forces the uniseal to expand and seal against the can.
 
With silicone do i just apply that to the outside around the edges of the bulkhead?
Also how tight should i be making it? Should i keep cranking on it with a wrench until it won't turn any more or should hand tight be enough

I actually agree that for a curved surface like a brute can a uniseal is a better option than an inflexible bulkhead. If you must use the bulkhead, then you can get rid of the gasket, but use enough sealant under the flange that it 'fills' the spade between the flat flange and the curved container. You don't want to crank the nut down because it will deform the brute wall.
 
It's just dripping from the bottom of the bulkhead. How can i tell if its flange issue or gasket issue

I mean is it dripping out of the bulkhead where it seals to the brute, or the actual bulkhead hole that water passes through when in use?
 
I mean is it dripping out of the bulkhead where it seals to the brute, or the actual bulkhead hole that water passes through when in use?
It's dripping from underneath the flange. Between bulkhead and can
 
Ah ok - yeah try some petroleum jelly or silicone lubricant (or even dawn dishwashing liquid) on the gasket and see if it stops.
And gasket should be on outside with the flange?
 
Personally, if I had to use a bulkhead, I would put the flange and the gasket on the inside of the can. Same way you install them on a tank. Just my 2¢...
 
Personally, if I had to use a bulkhead, I would put the flange and the gasket on the inside of the can. Same way you install them on a tank. Just my 2¢...
I may try that i would just prefer it the other way around for appearances
 
Could the weight of the plumbing be causing a separation gap? Brute cans are playable and may need reinforcement drilled acrylic plates siliconed could help
 

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