To change or not to change...

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VVolfe

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I stopped by the LFS today where they confirmed my water test results. 0 Nitrites, 0 Nitrates. pH was good, all good.

it was suggested I do a scrub of the “brown algae” off the rocks and do up to 25% water change this weekend.

The goal being to reduce the brown algae.

Since my water seems good, is there another alternative than the water change?
 
I stopped by the LFS today where they confirmed my water test results. 0 Nitrites, 0 Nitrates. pH was good, all good.

it was suggested I do a scrub of the “brown algae” off the rocks and do up to 25% water change this weekend.

The goal being to reduce the brown algae.

Since my water seems good, is there another alternative than the water change?
I would be concerned that your water is too clean. If the numbers really are zero, you could be dealing with dinos instead of algae.
 
iF the brown substance is your concern, and water quality checks good, it diatoms. Would you know by chance if they were using API test kits?
Diatoms are a brown algae that typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit
Although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the kibosh on the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass. For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
 
I stopped by the LFS today where they confirmed my water test results. 0 Nitrites, 0 Nitrates. pH was good, all good.

it was suggested I do a scrub of the “brown algae” off the rocks and do up to 25% water change this weekend.

The goal being to reduce the brown algae.

Since my water seems good, is there another alternative than the water change?
If you are able to remove the algae without removing (too much of) the water, then yeah it could work. Some algae, like hair algae, can float in water in large enough clumps that you can swoop out with a net. Others will just be too fine and end up just spreading like, everywhere, instead. D:
 
I would be concerned that your water is too clean. If the numbers really are zero, you could be dealing with dinos instead of algae.
Dinos? Is that the same as diatoms?
 
I would be concerned that your water is too clean. If the numbers really are zero, you could be dealing with dinos instead of algae.
Dinos? Is hat the same as diatoms?
iF the brown substance is your concern, and water quality checks good, it diatoms. Would you know by chance if they were using API test kits?
Diatoms are a brown algae that typically appear in a reef tank that has just completed its cycle but they can also appear in an established reef tank. They can cover sand, rock, pumps, glass, you name it. Diatoms look ugly but in most cases they are harmless so the key is to not panic when they appear.
Diatoms feed mainly off of silicates but also consume dissolved organic compounds, phosphate and nitrates. Unfiltered tap water can contain silicates and is a good way to jump start a bloom if you use it to mix salt or to replace water that evaporated from the tank. The best way to prevent this from happening is to filter water through a RODI unit
Although you can still get a diatom bloom when using RODI if the cartridge that removes silicates expires.
diatoms are typically harmless to a captive reef and can be beaten once their food source expires. Once you put the kibosh on the source, the outbreak should last a couple of weeks so just be patient and it will pass. For major outbreaks you may want to consider the three day blackout. Diatoms are easily wiped from the glass with a mag float, a turkey baster or a toothbrush can access other areas of the tank. Be prepared for them to re-establish themselves quickly, they are likely to be able to resettle and have exponential growth rates.
To prevent their return, practice good aquarium husbandry by doing regular water changes, keep the substrate clean, don’t overfeed the fish, ensure your skimmer is running at an optimal level and rinse out filter socks and sponges on a regular basis.
Some cleaner crew to help control it are : Cerith snails, Nerite snails and Trochus snails and also Astraea snails are effective at removing diatoms.
I had done A bit of reading and thought it might be diatoms too but not sure.

Yes, it was an API test kit.

I just started adding some phytoplankton to the tank. Should I stop while doing 3 days with no lights on?
 
Here's a couple pics to ensure ID. Like vetteguy said it's most likely diatoms you have.
 

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Here's a couple pics to ensure ID. Like vetteguy said it's most likely diatoms you have.
It definitely looks more like diatoms. No upward movement or bubbles. Thanks
 
Usually they fade away. I usually vacuum a third of my substrate every time I change water. Black outs and chemicals aren't needed.
 
Usually they fade away. I usually vacuum a third of my substrate every time I change water. Black outs and chemicals aren't needed.
I’m concerned I don’t have much substrate really. Probably should have added more before getting this far.

LFS said scrub the rocks with a toothbrush and do the water change. I was hoping these guys might go away on their own Without the water change.
 
I’m concerned I don’t have much substrate really. Probably should have added more before getting this far.

LFS said scrub the rocks with a toothbrush and do the water change. I was hoping these guys might go away on their own Without the water change.
Water change will be needed if you are scrubbing or removing them. Even if you remove them they will most likely come back in a few days. With new tanks you will have an assortment of algae issues. All are normal. Just part of the maturing process. The best thing to do is manage parameters and remove the excess during water changes.
 
Dinos? Is hat the same as diatoms?

I had done A bit of reading and thought it might be diatoms too but not sure.

Yes, it was an API test kit.

I just started adding some phytoplankton to the tank. Should I stop while doing 3 days with no lights on?
Yes stop until lights are resumed. API is notorious for false readings and have disappointed many reefers and may reflect incorrect results, mainly ammonia and nitrate
 
Yes stop until lights are resumed. API is notorious for false readings and have disappointed many reefers and may reflect incorrect results, mainly ammonia and nitrate
what test would you suggest for better accuracy?
 
Salifert, hanna, red sea are all good ones. I use salifert.
Thanks! Are there any that are like probes that can give constant or on demand readings?
 
Thanks! Are there any that are like probes that can give constant or on demand readings?
None of those are. However it's not really needed. Nitrate, phosphate, alkalinity, calcium, magnesium and Ph are the tests needed. The first 3 being the 3 that you'll need to focus on first.
 
what test would you suggest for better accuracy?
Hanna user friendly ( my choice of kits). Salifert and Nyos also good
 

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